/ Portland winter project 7c/7c+
Think the problem you might find with some of those is that West Coast can be pretty cold over the winter - any wind and it can be quite bitter, plus with short days the lack of sunshine is an issue.
From what I've been told conditions on that wall by road rage can be a bit mixed, prone to grease and what have you.
Cuttings is the usual winter haunt because its the most sunny and reliable I guess.
Closer to home, isn't there a 7c/+ at Brean that would be a reliable choice that you could get psyched for? Cheddar a bit more tricky conditions wise I suppose.
I'll let you know - I am out somewhere Saturday but haven't spoken to Ali about where yet...
My vote would go to monoculture. Epic line.
My favourite line in that grade band would have to be 'The Mind Terrorist' ... but that doesn't fit your criteria at all. Plus I've never actually ticked it... that's probably why I like it so much. It's a bastard.
I've had a 20minute play on the mind terrorist in the rain. Realising that rain effects this problem massively, I still thought it felt pretty impossible.
Drive to Torquay. Do Just revenge / Avenged. Fulfills your brief, and is better than all routes mentioned so far.
Do people climb this? It's been high on my list of "wants" for years, but I've always been put off because the gear seems to consist of old drilled pegs.
Do they stay dry over the winter? If so, I may be taking your advice at least - id written off that entire wall as a seepage fest until the spring.....
> Realising that rain effects this problem massively, I still thought it felt pretty impossible.
I spent about two days on it... I even cut the brambles back underneath. For me, it felt very hard for 7c+. But then again... I don't think I figured out the best sequence.
SUM has been rebolted thanks to DannyBoy83.
It is an excellent route, but don't think it is one for the winter. You would have to be lucky or local to get it in good condition regularly.
> Do they stay dry over the winter? If so, I may be taking your advice at least - id written off that entire wall as a seepage fest until the spring.....
I had a play on Just Revenge a while ago (last march, before the rainy season started) and really liked it but avoided it ever since thinking it would a waterfall after rain. Would be great to do in the winter tho! Can anyone confirm that Just Revenge is mostly seepage free in winter?
I am not referring to the temperatures, but the damp conditions found at the sea level crags such as Realm of Chaos Sector where SUM is. The upper crags are a lot drier all winter and, as you so aptly describe, are climbable with the right clothing.
That might well have been me - having spent several years down there I'm quite well up with the idea of climbing down there in a tshirt, both on east and west coasts. However, if I was driving down from Bristol to try a project that was likely to take me 4 sessions or half a dozen sessions or whatever I wouldn't pick the west coast for my winter project.
So you can keep the "lol" and what have you - having ample experience of winter sessions down on Portland I know where I'd be spending my time if I wanted to put some serious hours into something. You'll get a few weekend days where the west coast will be just lovely for projecting once the sun comes round, but you'll get far more days, and far more time of every day, where the cuttings is in that same lovely condition.
Had a play on Hall of Mirrors at the cuttings a few years back... Good moves (even if it's not at your chosen venue).
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