/ Portland winter project 7c/7c+

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Tomar - on 17 Oct 2012
Any suggestion for a good winter project in Portland in the top 7s? I am training for Siurana and Margalef for March so anything in similar style would be ideal, I guess long sustained and steep(ish) with a meaty bouldery crux on crimps and pockets. I can think of a few but not sure yet. Keyboard wall, mono culture, trance mission, sang froid, illusions or detonator but I have never been on them. Not very keen on the cuttings but I could be convinced otherwise.
AJM - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1:

Hey mate,

Think the problem you might find with some of those is that West Coast can be pretty cold over the winter - any wind and it can be quite bitter, plus with short days the lack of sunshine is an issue.

From what I've been told conditions on that wall by road rage can be a bit mixed, prone to grease and what have you.

Cuttings is the usual winter haunt because its the most sunny and reliable I guess.

Closer to home, isn't there a 7c/+ at Brean that would be a reliable choice that you could get psyched for? Cheddar a bit more tricky conditions wise I suppose.

Andy
Tomar - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to AJM: Hey Andy, I know Portland bitterly cold winds can be a problem if it's blowing westerlies which is most of the time, maybe I am kidding my self. Oh well Brean it is again then. I am pretty psyched for Storm Warning and Storm Warming variation (8a) maybe I should just concentrate on them first. By the way, fancy coming to Brean this saturday? Cheddar would be a mess after all the rain, especially lion and remnant.
AJM - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1:

I'll let you know - I am out somewhere Saturday but haven't spoken to Ali about where yet...
A Longleat Boulderer - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1:

My vote would go to monoculture. Epic line.

My favourite line in that grade band would have to be 'The Mind Terrorist' ... but that doesn't fit your criteria at all. Plus I've never actually ticked it... that's probably why I like it so much. It's a bastard.
nealh - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1: if you have the span crucifix kiss is a good winter project gets the sun from 10ish and rarely seeps otherwise if we get a dry winter try shining heart for steep power ful climbing enjoy oh and leave the cutt Inge for the depths of despair
JimmyKay - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

I've had a 20minute play on the mind terrorist in the rain. Realising that rain effects this problem massively, I still thought it felt pretty impossible.
dannyboy83 - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1: Saskatchewan Uranium Miner, the best 7c on Portland!
Toby Dunn - on 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1:
> Any suggestion for a good winter project in Portland in the top 7s? I guess long sustained and steep(ish) with a meaty bouldery crux on crimps and pockets.

Drive to Torquay. Do Just revenge / Avenged. Fulfills your brief, and is better than all routes mentioned so far.
keefe - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to dannyboy83:
> (In reply to Vertigo1) Saskatchewan Uranium Miner, the best 7c on Portland!

Do people climb this? It's been high on my list of "wants" for years, but I've always been put off because the gear seems to consist of old drilled pegs.
AJM - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to Toby Dunn:

Do they stay dry over the winter? If so, I may be taking your advice at least - id written off that entire wall as a seepage fest until the spring.....
A Longleat Boulderer - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to A Longleat Boulderer)
> Realising that rain effects this problem massively, I still thought it felt pretty impossible.

I spent about two days on it... I even cut the brambles back underneath. For me, it felt very hard for 7c+. But then again... I don't think I figured out the best sequence.
dan gibson - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to keefe: it's been regeared a few months ago. Had a play on it recently, it's very good.
Richard White on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to keefe:

SUM has been rebolted thanks to DannyBoy83.

It is an excellent route, but don't think it is one for the winter. You would have to be lucky or local to get it in good condition regularly.

Rich.
Tomar - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Toby Dunn)
>
> Do they stay dry over the winter? If so, I may be taking your advice at least - id written off that entire wall as a seepage fest until the spring.....

I had a play on Just Revenge a while ago (last march, before the rainy season started) and really liked it but avoided it ever since thinking it would a waterfall after rain. Would be great to do in the winter tho! Can anyone confirm that Just Revenge is mostly seepage free in winter?
Rockhopper85 - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1: I have no idea what anyone is on about.... I live on Portland and climb all winter, I actually pushed two grades last winter.lol. Being on my doorstep obviously makes it easier. 10,000,000 candle rechargeable spotlight for the dark, a pop up tent for staying warm and sheltered when not climbing, oh and some decent base layers. I climb in January, on Portland wearing base layers, a t-shirt and crag hopper trousers. Hand warmers in the chalk bag, and a decent coat to put on after lowering.
Richard White on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to Rockhopper85:

I am not referring to the temperatures, but the damp conditions found at the sea level crags such as Realm of Chaos Sector where SUM is. The upper crags are a lot drier all winter and, as you so aptly describe, are climbable with the right clothing.

Rich.
Rockhopper85 - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to Richard White: I know your not, someone else mentioned cold, wind and lack of Sun. Lol. Yeah, the sea level climbs can be damp, completely agree,. :)
AJM - on 18 Oct 2012
In reply to Rockhopper85:

That might well have been me - having spent several years down there I'm quite well up with the idea of climbing down there in a tshirt, both on east and west coasts. However, if I was driving down from Bristol to try a project that was likely to take me 4 sessions or half a dozen sessions or whatever I wouldn't pick the west coast for my winter project.

So you can keep the "lol" and what have you - having ample experience of winter sessions down on Portland I know where I'd be spending my time if I wanted to put some serious hours into something. You'll get a few weekend days where the west coast will be just lovely for projecting once the sun comes round, but you'll get far more days, and far more time of every day, where the cuttings is in that same lovely condition.
Duncan Disorderly - on 19 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1:
Had a play on Hall of Mirrors at the cuttings a few years back... Good moves (even if it's not at your chosen venue).
:D
chris j on 19 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1: JR suffers a bit less from seepage than Empire but in a typically damp winter it won't be seepage free. OTOH given one of those freezing cold winter high pressure periods Ansteys is a good sun trap and a good place for T-shirt climbing.
JM - on 19 Oct 2012
In reply to Vertigo1: Not directly related to this topic but if anyone needs a weekend partner (or doesn't mind me tagging along) for Brean or any other SW venues over this coming winter please get in touch!
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Tomar - on 19 Oct 2012
In reply to JM: Sure mate. Will keep that in mind.

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