UKC

NEWS: Pete Robins adds Diamond Dogs (8c+) to the Diamond

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 UKC News 17 Oct 2012
Pete Robins on Diamond Dogs (8c+), the Diamond, Little Orme. Photo: ©Ray Wood, 4 kbPete Robins has completed a new route on The Diamond in the nick of time before the wet winter weather returns. It had been a frustrating time for him since beginning on the project back in August with conditions frequently not good enough for a proper attempt.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67530
Now with Ben Bransby's video.

Alan
 Mark Collins 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax: Good for him. I know how he feels about the weather. I'm trying to work out whether the ear ache I have at the moment is the precursor to flu, or I'm growing gills.

Pardon my ignorance, but what do the P's on the topo mean?
 JSA 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Collins:
>
> Pardon my ignorance, but what do the P's on the topo mean?

At a guess I would say they mean Project, though I could be wrong.
 Reach>Talent 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Collins:
Pardon my ignorance, but what do the P's on the topo mean?


Project?
 Mark Collins 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Collins: Thanks all, that makes sense.
 Michael Ryan 17 Oct 2012


Great ascent Pete and good video Ben. It is wonderful to see this awesome wall see lots of activity, re-equipping and new routes, building on the work of the original pioneers like Big George, Steve Mayers et al...

A big thank you to all involved. Inspiring stuff.

Mick
 andyb211 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH: Nice one Pete, still cranking well.
 Michael Ryan 17 Oct 2012
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:
>
>
> of the original pioneers like Big George, Steve Mayers et al...

and Reverend Bob of course.
 mikekeswick 18 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News: Top effort - well done. Pete seems like such a nice chap.
 JLS 18 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic bit of climbing and all that but...

Is this really a route?

Isn't just the middle section of his project that perhaps one day, if the weather's nice he'll get around to finishing off?

<pulls up flame proof pants, ducts for cover>
 AJM 18 Oct 2012
In reply to JLS:

Middle section? Are you expecting a caving approach or something...?

Ffs...
 Adam Lincoln 18 Oct 2012
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Fantastic bit of climbing and all that but...
>
> Is this really a route?
>
> Isn't just the middle section of his project that perhaps one day, if the weather's nice he'll get around to finishing off?
>
> <pulls up flame proof pants, ducts for cover>

Have you ever been to the diamond? It starts off the floor already? A more direct line is also possible to the left, straightening it out...

 zero six 18 Oct 2012
In reply to JLS:

It's a route by most people's reckoning, but maybe not yours? In which case you must also believe that about 50% of hard sport routes in the UK don't count. No Mecca?

 Fishmate 18 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Hands up who wants to go out climbing. Most inspiring vid I've seen all year in spite of the quality. Top effort.
 Ben Bransby 19 Oct 2012
In reply to JLS: You do have a slight point here, when Pete bolted the line he was intending to go to the top of the crag (hence lowers off a single bolt at his highpoint rather than a double bolt belay which is at the top about 5 bolts higher!)

The reason Pete didn't try to continue is it was completely soaking - I had gone over to work my project which is the extension to the Brute, but it was so wet I didn't even get on it...

On Diamond Dogs the start up to Pete's 'belay' is very sustained climbing, there is then a section (30ft?) of jugs/much easier climbing before a few trickier sections and then a hard final boulder problem. Pete felt that although the full line should go to the top there is probably no change in grade (it would prob just be hard 8c+ or maybe 9a, guess it depends how it feels if/when he does it) and - especially with the top so wet and only likely to get wetter over the winter - it felt like a natural stopping place. If you look at the topo you will see many of the routes stop well below the top (Brute just to R stops same height) especially so on the routes over to the R where there is 100ft of steep rock above most of the belays.

It would be really good if Pete (or the next person to climb it if Pete gives up on it) took it to the top as that would make what is already one of the uks best sport routes even better.

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