/ Right Angle – Video + Best HS in the UK?

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BALD EAGLE - on 22 Oct 2012
Morning all
Having recently got back from a climbing trip to West Penwith in Cornwall, I had the pleasure of a repeat-offence climb after a 10 year gap of the 'Connoisseur's Classic Rock' route called “Right Angle” at Gurnard’s Head. Described by Rockfax and UKC as “a true classic of its grade, which follows an almost unbelievable path into, and out of territory that looks as though it should be reserved for far more extreme climbs”. In terms of setting, position and quality of climbing this route is surely a contender for the best Hard Severe in the country. Unless you think otherwise?
So has anyone else out there got fond memories when reminiscing about their adventures on this fantastic route or even have an epic tale of derring-do to tell? I took a wee splash from a wave but did you take a full on dunking? An après-climb beverage or celebratory meal in the Gurnard’s Head Inn?
Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD film of this memorable climb then please use the following link.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwmxEDgbqAY
If you wish to sample the full High Def experience and your computer has enough va va voom, you should be able to change the "Quality" icon to at least 720p HD in the bottom right hand corner on the You Tube screen. All constructive feedback welcome and hopefully it will inspire a few folks to get on this great route!
Cheers Dave
jshields - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:Thanks, brought back some good memories of an excellent route.
Regards,
Jon
Ava Adore - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

This is one of the most memorable climbs I ever did. I was on second but considering the traverse at the start and the bit that needed downclimbing, it was a big prospect for a relative newbie as I was at the time. I remember being petrified at the start but elated as I climbed the final last pitch into the sunshine (singing, if I remember correctly, "Bring me Sunshine").
johnnorman on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:


Looks really good, will definitely look for this next time i`m in Cornwall.
Great video to :-)
lithos on 22 Oct 2012
Pursued by a bear - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: Excellent climb, and a nice video too.

It took me two attempts to do this route. The first was on a nice sunny day that followed two other equally nice days and frankly, I was knackered; the traverse over the little zawn fazed me completely and I backed off, leaving my two mates to do it while I took a few pictures. There's one looking down the final pitch, together with a brief summary of what happened when I did the route later that year, here http://www.flickr.com/photos/8411024@N08/3500295019/in/set-72157600277892262

T.
BALD EAGLE - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Pursued by a bear, jshields and johnnorman:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE) Excellent climb, and a nice video too.
> It took me two attempts to do this route. The first was on a nice sunny day that followed two other equally nice days and frankly, I was knackered; the traverse over the little zawn fazed me completely and I backed off, leaving my two mates to do it while I took a few pictures. > T.
Hey guys thanks for the kind comments and glad you enjoyed the route + video. Pbab-Nice image looking down the 3rd pitch! Cheers Dave
deepstar - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: Excellent video Dave,surely an Oscar nomination awaits!
BusyLizzie on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: Loved it. The climbing would be beyond me, but the row of cormorants on the rock brought back waves of Cornwall nostalgia.
luke glaister - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: looks fannytastic. now on the wish list.:-)
Steph-in-the-West on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Wow - brilliant video. I was gripped! never done the route ( and I live 5 miles away!!!) but would love to...just need a HS leader!!!!
Tom Last - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Nice vid, great route, but Integrity is a far superior HS ;)
ERH - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to Southern Man:

Beat me to it!
nocker - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: I have mixed but top memories of Right Angle, surely one of the best expeditions of its grade anywhere. On at least two occasions I have climbed it in glorious mid summer and one of the biggest challenges was resisting the urge to dive in off the belay ledge below pitch three to join the curious seals. In April this year we had a week at the Count House and Right Angle was top of my wish list. Summer it was not, and when we arrived the whole face was streaming, with the sun not yet on it. I led off to string the first two pitches together. It was a different and unusually gripping experience. I protected the down climb as you do, but I overshot slightly and attempted to go down inside the crack/corner. Having descended about 10ft, I knew I was coming off and lost the urge to fight it, knowing I was protected from above. Little did I realise how much slack was in the traverse and as I let go, I was staggered at how far I fell. It was a fast lift experience but not sure which floor I would stop at. As it happened, I was about 15ft below the belay ledge and had thin wet rock to negotiate to gain it. I do however regard it as the only climb that I have ever made progress on by falling down. As my ashen partner joined me on the ledge, the sun came round and quickly dried the final pitch which he enjoyed to the hilt. I came home to search UKC for images and having viewed them I am determined to return in the summer for another shorts and tee-shirt experience.
BALD EAGLE - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to Ava Adore:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
> This is one of the most memorable climbs I ever did. I was on second but considering the traverse at the start and the bit that needed downclimbing, it was a big prospect for a relative newbie as I was at the time.

Hey Ava great effort for a relative newbie!
Ava Adore - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Definitely. And I was a hungover newbie. Actually, maybe that helped :-)
Toby_W on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to nocker:

eeeehhh. I was there with you for a second.

It is a great climb, my wife and I did it in glorious sunshine first thing in the morning a good few years ago.

Cheers

Toby
BALD EAGLE - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to deepstar:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE) Excellent video Dave,surely an Oscar nomination awaits!
<laughs> probably the golden raspberry... ;-)

BALD EAGLE - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to Steph-in-the-West, Busy Lizzie and Luke:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
> Wow - brilliant video. I was gripped! never done the route ( and I live 5 miles away!!!) but would love to...just need a HS leader!!!!

Thanks all for your kind comments! Hey Steph no excuse for getting on it as you live only 5 miles away so find that HS leader!
BALD EAGLE - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
> Nice vid, great route, but Integrity is a far superior HS ;)

So which "Integrity" do you mean? The sea stack in Lundy or the classic rock tick in Skye?! ;-)
andybenham - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: If its the one in Lundy its a very good route with an exciting approach down steep grass and choss, a definite time limit (unless you fancy swimming back) and excellent climbing. Bit short though.

Right Angle is good though the best HS I've ever done was Main wall on Cyrn Las. Massive exposure committing moves and, rather like Right Angle, tip toes through terrain shared mainly with much harder routes.
Jamie B - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Had the good fortune to do both this and Doorpost on the same day a few years back. Both good, but the other wins the prize for "best HS" hands down IMHO.
RockSteady on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

I climbed this on a beautiful sunny April day - the downclimb and traverse to the belay ledge was my first trad 'lead'. I got to the belay ledge to find another party on it, so set up my belay on a small footledge with some fiddly small wires as anchors.
My climbing partner climbed down, by which time the party were gone from the belay ledge - he couldn't work out why I was on this tiny ledge with ropes heaped over my feet and trailing into the sea while there was a great belay position 10 feet away. It seemed like a good idea at the time.

Anyway, once I was off on the climbing back up I found it all extremely enjoyable, easy climbing in a spectacular position. I'd definitely do it again, though I think the lead up and out would be easier than the downclimb!



Tom Last - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
> (In reply to Southern Man)
> [...]
>
> So which "Integrity" do you mean? The sea stack in Lundy or the classic rock tick in Skye?! ;-)

The Skye Integrity. Bonkers route at the grade, probably harder and even more exposed than Right Angle. Swings and roundabouts, don't get me wrong though - Right Angle is ace.
Michael Gordon - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Eagle Ridge is the best one I've done (it felt like HS to me, certainly as hard as Integrity).
Mark Kemball - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: Great route, I've done it several times, most recently with my 11 year old - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207211 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207212 - your video inspired me to post the photos, thanks. I'm not sure about the best in the UK though - Main Wall, Cyrn Las and Tophet Wall, the Napes (with its strange Fell and Rock grade of HS+) take some beating.
Iain Peters - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Well, I've always claimed it as the best, greenstone, seacliif HS at........Gurnard's Head!
TheDrunkenBakers - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: And wearing helmets too.
Michael Hood - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE: Nice video - I've had 3 Right Angle experiences.

The first time, we bailed out (upwards) from after the first pitch, just couldn't cope with the rest which was strange as we were climbing much harder than that (HVS & E1). The weather was fine, actually the weather was too fine and we had got sunstroke from being on the beach in the morning but hadn't quite realised yet - it does that to you (sunstroke), dulls the mind.

The second time the sea was a bit too rough to go down on the second pitch and we did the straight across variation - ok but missing the point a bit so had to come back...

The third time was glorious, calm, sunny. I remember belaying a few feet above the sea after the second pitch with a grey seal swimming about below me in the clear sea and peregrine falcons wheeling about above (I think they nested on the actual Gurnards Head) - one of my most enduring climbing image memories.
Bobling - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Brilliant film Dave, brilliant route Iain.

I too went and did Doorpost straight after which was a complete contrast. Right Angle felt nice and friendly and relaxed, and on Doorpost I was convinced that something was going to go wrong, my belay was going to rip and we were ALL GOING TO DIE for most of the route. No idea why, something to do with not being used to granite as limestone is my natural habitat and greenstone felt quite homely.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Steph-in-the-West on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
> (In reply to Steph-in-the-West, Busy Lizzie and Luke)
Hey Steph no excuse for getting on it as you live only 5 miles away so find that HS leader!

Any volunteers???? I can bring lunch!!!!
Steph

BALD EAGLE - on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
> The Skye Integrity. Bonkers route at the grade, probably harder and even more exposed than Right Angle. Swings and roundabouts, don't get me wrong though - Right Angle is ace.

Yep I did Integrity on Sron na Ciche years ago and absolutely it is a superlative route but I always thought it was graded VS? ;-)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7741
Anyway back to work I'll pop back later... :-)
Tom Last - on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Pretty sure it's HS in the old guide, could be wrong though, maybe upgraded in the new one?

I do remember it feeling pretty hard for HS, but put that down to the position.

Either way, top route!
BALD EAGLE - on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to Mark Kemball:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE) Great route, I've done it several times, most recently with my 11 year old - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207211 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207212 - your video inspired me to post the photos, thanks.

Hey Mark great images of a young budding tyro!
BALD EAGLE - on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to Iain Peters:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
>
> Well, I've always claimed it as the best, greenstone, seacliif HS at........Gurnard's Head!

That Iain is indubitably true! A magnificant route to have as a FA... :-)
BALD EAGLE - on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to Bobling and Michael Hood:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
>
> Brilliant film Dave, brilliant route Iain.

Thanks guys and all hail Iain for a most brilliant route indeed!
BALD EAGLE - on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to Steph-in-the-West:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
> Hey Steph no excuse for getting on it as you live only 5 miles away so ind that HS leader!
>
> Any volunteers???? I can bring lunch!!!!
> Steph

Cor blimey Steph still no volunteers? What with lunch and all sounds like a great offer to me! :-)
Iain Peters - on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to Steph-in-the-West:

I'll be down, probably around Christmas time, as I haven't yet made the mandatory annual inspection ascent to make sure the route's being looked after properly, so will be in touch if you don't get a better/earlier offer!

I'm thinking of putting a collection box on the third stance. Getting the sticky rubber replaced on my zimmer is becoming very expensive.
Steph-in-the-West on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
> (In reply to Steph-in-the-West)
> [...]
>
> Cor blimey Steph still no volunteers? What with lunch and all sounds like a great offer to me! :-)

Just got an offer for pre-Christmas........ Guessing you're not local?
Steph-in-the-West on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to Iain Peters:
> (In reply to Steph-in-the-West)
so will be in touch if you don't get a better/earlier offer!

Yours is the only offer...... keep in touch

Getting the sticky rubber replaced on my zimmer is becoming very expensive.

Yup - and the electric buggy may not get that far!!!!!!



BALD EAGLE - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Steph-in-the-West:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
> [...]
>
> Just got an offer for pre-Christmas........ Guessing you're not local?

<laughs> No but it sounds like you have a great offer from the first ascensionist of Right Angle the legendary Sir Iain of the Peters. Apart from his nervous tic + tourettes he is a top bloke so have a great day out and let us all know how you get on! ;-)
BALD EAGLE - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Iain Peters:
> (In reply to Steph-in-the-West)
>
> I'll be down, probably around Christmas time, as I haven't yet made the mandatory annual inspection ascent to make sure the route's being looked after properly, so will be in touch if you don't get a better/earlier offer!

Hey Iain you will be pleased to hear that your route, as of the 29th September, is in tip-top shape apart from the odd new shiny bolt or 3 to protect the downclimb crux! Oh and the third pitch has fallen down... ;-)
Steph-in-the-West on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to BALD EAGLE:
> (In reply to Steph-in-the-West)
> [...]
sounds like you have a great offer from the first ascensionist of Right Angle the legendary Sir Iain of the Peters. Apart from his nervous tic + tourettes he is a top bloke so have a great day out and let us all know how you get on! ;-)

So I have indeed - shall look forward that very much; as for the Tourettes - I was a teacher for 27 years so no worries there; and the nervous tic - tic - tic tic........

Iain Peters - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Steph-in-the-West:
> (In reply to BALD EAGLE)
> [...]
> So I have indeed - shall look forward that very much; as for the Tourettes - I was a teacher for 27 years so no worries there; and the nervous tic - tic - tic tic........

The only nervous tic I have ever seen is the look on the face of the big fat one I recently pulled off the dog, just before I squished it, and as for tourettes, I have no f***** idea what the f*** you are f****** talking about.

Steph-in-the-West on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Iain Peters:
> (In reply to Steph-in-the-West)
> [...]
>
> The only nervous tic I have ever seen is the look on the face of the big fat one I recently pulled off the dog, just before I squished it, and as for tourettes, I have no f***** idea what the f*** you are f****** talking about.

I believe it was Bald Eagle who mentioned the tourettes and the tic......!!!!!!!!!!!!not a grain of truth there surely?????????

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