/ NEWS: Full Love on the North Face of the Peigne

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UKC News - on 22 Oct 2012
Julien Desecures digs deep on the final M6 R pitch., 4 kbTwo weeks ago we reported that some surprising good conditions had arrived in the Alps with British alpinists Matt Helliker and Andy Perkins making the season's first ascent of Beyond Good and Evil on the North Face of the Pélerins above Chamonix. It seems like the good conditions have continued...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67546
Michael Ryan - on 22 Oct 2012
Great report Jon and stunning photos....what an experience.

Thanks,

Mick
Escher - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News: Brilliant Jon! The photos are awe-inspiring (and sphincter clenching) and your description just oozes passion and excitement. Thoroughly enjoyed reading that, thanks.
Lukas V-L - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Fkn Mental.

Its all that climbing at Westway that made this possible really.. ;)
Fergal - on 22 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

The stuff of dreams, ephemeral lines, oh the joy of being in the right place at the right time.

Anyone any idea of the conditions on the higher peaks, with all this talk of primo conditions.
ericinbristol - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Wow. Truly stunning.
TonyM - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Just, wow! What a fantastic adventure. What with that other route on the Pelerins that Jeff and Korra put up to the R of "Beyond the good and the evil" a couple of weeks back, those French boys are having an amazing time.
I think the grade looks a bit of a joke though (V, 5+ M6 , R). Maybe the "R" bit should be bold and in a bigger font size!? Working out that line, climbing into the unknown and blank slabs with thin ice (and without the benefit of the beautiful photos looking down) would clearly have been really ballsy. Well done to all!
philhilo - on 23 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News: Great article, great shots and good effort. The ace photos had me with the leaders stressing on some mighty thin ice! Bring on the winter.
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In reply to Lukas V-L: Haha! It was a good warm up, thats for sure!

In reply to Quagmire: A few days of incredibly warm Foehn wind put an end to the good conditions. They werent exactly good anyway, they were just good for that very small area of the valley. We headed back up for another line on Sunday but the line was disintegrating above us when we got to the shrund at 6am. Beyond is still there but it really needs to get a bit colder, it's summer temps in the valley right now.

In reply to TonyM: Agreed. It is tricky I think with M grades now. The last few years has seen a huge surge in the number of people dry tooling so more people will know what a sport M6 (or D6) will feel rather than a mountain M6 (which is normally much softer). They are just applying sport grades to the mountain M grade now- in the same way that we've basically ditched the rock UIAA ratings and now just use sport grades to say how hard a mountain rock pitch is. It does make sense of course but it means you have to be wary of the difference between a Pointe Lachenal M6 and a 'modern' M6- the difference is just huge. For example the Dru Couloir Direct gets M7 in modern times which i think you could easily equate to Scottish 8 if not more (thats just my personal take on it anyway).

Jon



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