/ La Sportiva Katana
Also, I have discovered that they resole pretty well and the resoled shoes are the ones I wear at the wall. So I'm able to train in the same shoes as I climb.
I'd love a pair of 5.10s given that they are so well reviewed but I just can't get on with the fit, so no point.
XS Grip will wear out quicker than XS Edge, maybe twice as fast? Definitely sticker though. Your choice.
Never had a problem with the XS Edge rubber and my feet never slipped off anything.
As someone else mentioned, the XS Grip2 wears out even faster. If you really want Katanas with XS Grip2 why don´t you buy the women's version?
My last pair off Katana W´s only lasted 5 weeks, then i had a hole at the big toe. Tam i the only one who thinks that the new Vibram rubbers are worse than the old Xs Grip?
The cheaper, and more reliable version would be to get your old pair resoled with Stealth rubber. As mentioned before. You get the shoes that fit you best with the rubber you prefer. Also a resoled pair will last longer since the sole i get from my resoler is always a little bit thicker (i like that).
If you send them to some good resoler you won´t notice any difference to new ones. Katanas resoled with a well done Edge are like new cause the have no downturn or difficult shape.
I'd say fit wins over rubber every time. However as Kingofthehill says the simple answer is to get the Katanas resoled in the rubber you want.
For £25 you can see how different you think the rubber is and then decide from there. I stock Stealth C4 or XSGrip2. Katanas resole pretty easily too as they hold their shape well.
(Oh I'm Llanberis Resoles btw.)
Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll get another pair of Katanas and get this pair resoled in Stealth. Sounds like a great idea: shoe that fits in my preferred rubber. Already had a look at the Llanberis Resoles website. I'll be in touch.
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