/ Removing a seized pedal
liberal use of penetrating oil followed by repeated smacking with a rubber mallet? usually with the other crank tied up to the chainstay....
is it that kind of party? ;O)
i did mean to say that it's the pedal spanner or pedal hex key that you should be smacking btw. if that doesn't work, cut the axle off with a hacksaw and replace the BB.
put the pedal in a vice and hang off the crank arm.bit of a pain if the crank is still on the bike
Try a longer spanner or slide a bit of pipe over the end to extend the lever, or use a breaker bar on a socket if its got an allen key hole on the inside of the pedal (if that makes sense!)
Also a bit of heat can help,especially if they are alloy. You can try repeated cycles of hot (boiling) then cold water- particularly good if you want to keep the cranks as it wont damage them.
Be patient, it will come off!!
WATCH YOUR KNUCKLEs!
Try all the above, watch your knuckles (if you have any left). I find it helps to strap the oppostite crank to the chain stay using an old toe strap.
When you replace the pedals do not forget to smear them liberally with copper grease. Remove and re grease annually and you'll never have a problem again.
A product called Plus Gas is a good release lubricant, I have used on both old Triumph sports cars and old (and not so old) landrovers, plus a bit of use on modern cars for those stubborn bolts, many times better than 3 in 1, WD40 (which really is not a penetrating oil!!).
Another couple of tips, if you get the crank off, put it on a piece of wood and give the pedal a whack, and also try tightening a fraction first, then loosen.
What happens over time is the threads almost sieze together, and possibly also a touch of rust. What you need to do is break this join, which a well judged tap can do. For some reason (I did know, but have forgotten) it is easier to break this join by tightening a touch first, it has to do with how the threads interact I think. Once broken, it should go, unless the threads are really disformed. I would also recommend running a tap through the crank threads before fitting a new pedal to clean em up.
I've been successful in the past by wedging a block of wood under the crank so that it can't move and smacking the hammer/allen key with a hammer. IMHO delicacy has no place in this operation as long as the crank is supported. When you apply enough force the pedal will shift or spanner/allen key will break (or fly across the garage and cause grievous injury to something). The hammer needs to be weighty - you don't want some silly little thing bouncing back at you at the speed of light. It's not a discussion - it's a forceful and one-sided exchange of views!
You are going in the right direction. Can definitely vouch for the broken spanner syndrome described in this delicate procedure. My 10mil spanner snapped when I tried to replace my pedals a few years back. Friend's pedal wrench kept slipping, chewing the nut in the process. I had to admit defeat with mine and go to a bike shop. The bloke used a f'in massive pedal wrench to get them off in the end. Turns out they'd been superglued in by the helpful shop I'd bought the bike from originally... (Cheers yeah E**ns!) On the plus side the nice man in the shop removed them for free. Might be worth asking if you're struggling?
Get the crank off. If you can, dismantle the pedal to leave just the spindle. Lock this in a vice and use the leverage of the crank to undo (i.e. grab hold of the BB end of the crank).
If this fails you could try applying GENTLE heat to the seized end (hot air gun, or wave a blow lamp across it repeatedly). DON'T just blast it with a blow lamp.
I'd second the approach of sitting it in a release oil for a while, possibly adding a bit of heat. Aluminium expands more than steel per degree raised so if you warm the crank arm in a cool ~80 degree oven then plunge the pedal axle stub into ice cold water you may be able to free something off. Repeating the soaking and heating cooling procedures may get you somewhere.
PB Blaster is good release oil or otherwise plus-gas as someone said above.
Getting a massive spanner on it could work but I've had a couple of experiences where I've stripped the threads out of the crank arm doing it this way.
1. Penetrating oil. This works best over time. 20 mins soaking is good, 24 hours is better. Also, spend some time trying to get some movement into the joint to allow the penetrating oil in. I.e hit it (in any direction) with a mallet, try to tighten/loosen the threads with your spanner and apply more penetrating oil.
2. Bigger spanner. After the oil, try with the spanner you are using (make sure it's a perfect fit). If no success use a bigger spanner, or try the scaffolding pole trick.
3. Blow torch. Make sure penetrating oil is all cleaned off first. Then heat the pedal threads with a blow torch. Plum red is the colour you are aiming for. Try and undo it while it's hot/cooling.
4. Hacksaw the pedal and drill out the leftovers (better to do this on a bench - you might need to tidy up the threads after)
If you are impatient, just go straight to 4 - it's the only dead cert to work.
To be perfectly honest, unless cost is a major issue here, if you get to the stage of drilling out, I would seriously be considering replacing the crank!
Yes, the old one will still work, but after you have subjected it to the punishments of heat, hammers and large amounts of leverage, it ain't ever going to be what it used to be ;)
Another option, seeing as you have it seperate from the bike, take it down to a local garage, chances are they will have a vice. Explain to them what you are trying to do, chances are they'll have it off in seconds, making you look like a fool in the process. Maybe take the price of a pint with you to grease the palms??
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