/ Dolomites, best areas and Guidebooks?
I really enjoyed every route I did in the Kohler guidebook and found it really clear. I know others disagree and it is getting long in the tooth. We have based ourselves in Canazei or Campitello in the past.
To kick off with the Sella group is a good introduction with good long routes, easy access and relatively easy descents.
Cinque Torri - Finlandia (VII)
Marmolada South Face - Moby Dick (VII-/ A0) - make sure your really up to it.
Grande Muro - (VII) Santa Croce face on the Fanis
Messner route, North face of the 2nd Sella tower (VI) - Don't underestimate it, very little gear.
Comici / Brandler Hasse (VII / VIII) on Cima Grande at the Tre Cime.
Egger - (VI) on Cima Piccola at the Tre Cime, a good alternative to the busy 'Yellow Edge'.
Pilastro (VII+) - Tofanda di Rozes. A long undertaking, not to be underestimated.
Vinatzer (V+) - Good route on the 3rd Sella Tower.
All accessible and great routes.
Postpone your trip for a year and I'll have the guidebook finished!
> Postpone your trip for a year and I'll have the guidebook finished!
Really? I'm interested in that... when do you think it'll be out?
There are some relatively new guidebooks to the western dolomites that are excellent.
> I really enjoyed every route I did in the Kohler guidebook and found it really clear. I know others disagree and it is getting long in the tooth. We have based ourselves in Canazei or Campitello in the past.
> To kick off with the Sella group is a good introduction with good long routes, easy access and relatively easy descents.
There seems to be a new(er) edition of that one in the shops. I have been meaning to take a look and see if it really differs from my 2003 vintage copy.
I saw a newer version of the German edition but not the english one.
The Dolomites is a massive and varied zone, and each area offers its own special charm.
Millions head for Canazei and Sella Towers, which is fine but very busy in high season.
Not many foreigners seem to know that Val Canali has the best rock of all the Dollies, and overall the Pale di San Martino (a massive group in its own right) is probably the single area that offers the best of everything (in my view, obviously), with possibilities for some absolutely "out there on your own" multi day trips, "normal" Dolly one dayers, incredible peaks to scale, and (wait for it) trad climbing on massive rhyolite style cliffs (porphyry, but similar) and even pink granite walls nearby (roadside or hut based).
For an idea of what this group offers see the recently translated Trad Climbing in the Dolomites guides by Montagna Nuova and the new Versant Sud Lagorai guide. If you are good at Italian then see the 2 new CAI guides for Pale di San Martino and the one for the Lagorai.
Having said all that, my favourite are is the Brenta, probably because it starts from my back door - all very poorly documented, but keep you eyes open over the next year or so ...
The new route options are still more or less infinite - in fact with modern climbing standards the Dollies offer no end of crazy overhanging rock.
If it rains you want to go to the Sarca Valley, but that is another story.
It seems to have arrived in english now. I'm sure I saw it in Outside a couple of weeks back.
The books David mentioned are very good as well though. Just aimed at the slightly easier end of the spectrum.
The Pala dolomites are also worth a look. Longer walk - ins but some stunning routes. I don't know the area as well but Erstwhile who posts regually lives there I think and is a big fan.
Chris on VF's: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=86
Mine on summer climbing: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2708
Mine on the Comici: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2696
Jacks on the BH: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=459
Winter climbing: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4437
The articles are a bit out of date as everything changes so fast, very up and coming area. Particually with regards to guidebooks.
Hope that helps!
That's my climbing all over these days unfortunately :(
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