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Topic - Roaches Grade History

Offwidth - on 26 Oct 2012
The Roaches Grade History

Also trimmed from the Offwidth website (not yet updated):

The grade changes for the older Roaches Routes. The main grades given are also those in the current 2009 guide [2004 definitive grades in square brackets; followed by 1989 definitive grades; followed by 1981 grades; then 1973 grades then the 1951 guide] (Rockfax Western Grit 2009 in round brackets; followed by Western Grit 2003 grades) To save space “=” means the grade is the same as the preceding guide. Finally, if they differ from the ‘09 grade, are our suggestions for grades.

Note there were two intermediate guides between 1951 and 1973 that were not in the main series; I’ve never been able to find a copy: 1968 (ed. J Smith) and 1968 (ed. D Salt)

Roaches Lower Tier

11 Ackit HVS 5b** [=; =*; HVS 5b; VS] (HVS 5b**; =)
21 Teck Crack HVS 5b*** [=**; =***; =**; HVS] (E1 5c**; =*)
23 Lightning Crack HVS 5b, 4c* [=; =; HVS 5b, 4c; HVS] (HVS 5b*; =)
31 Yong Arete S* [HVD*; =; HVD; =] (S 3c*; =) possible S 3c*
33 Yong HVD 4a* [HVD*; =; =; HVD] (HVD 4a**; =)
35 Wise Crack VS 4c [VS 4b; =*; MVS 4b*; VS] (VS 4b*; =) at least VS 4c*
36 Hypothesis E1 5b** [=; HVS 5b**; =; HVS] (HVS 5b**; =)
38 Cannonball Crack S 4b [S 4a; =; S; =] (S 4b*; =) at least S 4b*
40 Dorothy’s Dilemma E1 5a** [=; HVS 5a**; HVS 5b*; HVS] (E1 5a**; =)
41 Bengal Buttress HVS 4c** [=; =; VS 4c**; VS; =] (HVS 4c**; =) probable VS 5a**
42a The Direct Start [-; 5b; HVS 5b; HVS]
Bengal Buttress by a hand traverse 3m up Crack of Gloom.
44 Crack of Gloom E2 5b** [=; =*; E1 5b; XS] (E1 5b**; =)
45 Raven Rock Gully Left-Hand VS 4b [=; =; MVS 4b; VS; S] (VS 4b*; =) probable VS 4b*
46 Raven Rock Gully D* [=; =; =; D; =] (D**; =) probable D 3b**
46a Swinger VS 4c [=; =; =; VS] (VS 4c; =)
48 Via Dolorosa VS 4c, 4a, 4c*** [VS 4b, 4a, 4c***; VS 4b, -, 4c***; HS***; S; VD] (VS 4c, 4a, 4c***; =)
Originally finished up Raven Rock Gully exit.
46 Valkyrie Direct HVS 5b** [=; =; HVS 5a*; VS] (HVS 5b**; HVS 5a**) probable HVS 5a**
47 Matinee HVS 5a, 5b*** [=; =; HVS 5a, 5a***; HVS] (HVS 5b**; =)
48 Valkyrie VS 4b, 4c*** [=; =; VS 4a; 4c***; VS; =] (VS 4b, 4c***; =)
53 Pebbledash HVS 5a, 4b* [=; =; VS 5a, 4b; VS] (HVS 5a, 4b**; =)
63 The Swan E3 5c*** [=; =; =; XS] (E3 5c***; =)
65 The Mincer HVS 5b*** [=; =**; HVS 5a**; HVS] (HVS 5b***; =)
68 Pincer VS 5a* [=; HVS 5a**; MVS 4c*; HS] (VS 5a*; =)
72 Guano Gully HS 4b [=; =; =; HS; S] (S 4b; HS 4b)
77 The Bulger VS 4c* [=; VS 4c; =; VS] (VS 4c*; =)
79 Fledglings Climb S 4a* [=; S*; MS; HVD; VD] (HS 4a*; =)
76a Dodo’s Dilemma [ ; ; ; ;VD] possibly VD 3c
The wide crack and chimney right of Fledglings Climb
81 Little Chimney M [Easy; M; =; =] (M; =) probable M 2b
82 Battery Crack VS 4b [HS 4a; =; HS; =] (VS 4b; =)
83 Lucas Chimney S 4a [S; =; =; =; D] (S 4a*; =) probable S 4b*
86 Kestrel Crack HS 4b** [=; HS 4a*; =; HS; S] (VS 4b**; =)
89 Flimney S 4a [HVD; =; =; =] (S 4a; =)
91 Rhodren HVS 5b** [=; HVS 5b; HVS 5a; VS] (HVS 5b*; =) probably HVS 5b*
92 Flake Chimney D* [D**; M; =; =; =] (D*; =) at least D 2b*
92a Flake Chimney Direct Start [-;- ; S; =]
93 Straight Crack HS 4a [S 4a; S; VD; HS] (HS 4a; =)
99 Prow Corner VD* [=; =; HD*; VD] (VD*; =) probable VD 3c*
102 Prow Cracks VD* [D*; =; D; =] (VD**; =) at least VD 3c*
108 Sifta's Quid HS 4c** [=; HS 4b*; S; =] (HS 4b*; =) possible HS 4c*
113 The Girdle Traverse HVS 5a [=; =; HVS; =]
114 The Underpass E1 5b [=; =; E1; XS]


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