/ soft touch VS' at stanage

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sparksy - on 26 Oct 2012
Trying to get a foothold into the grade, I did right twin crack last time I was there which was fine. I realise it's a soft touch but I'd like to try other routes like it to get my confidence up before moving on.

Anyone got recommendations that bridge the gap between HS and VS? Yes, I should just mtfu...
birdie num num - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:
Try Heather Wall Vs 4c. Not soft, but then not hard. About the grade really.
Run_Ross_Run - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:

Hi,

I'm far from a good VS leader but found Heather Wall ok. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10409

It wasn't much harder than some of the HS's and Sv's i'd struggle up in the past.

Just my 2pence worth.
Jamie B - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:

Inverted V, Hargreave's Original, Gargoyle Buttress, Via Media, Paradise Wall. Not complete soft touches, but easy at the grade.
AB - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:

Inverted V, Central Trinity, Via Media.

I found all these easier than right twin crack.
Jon Stewart - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:

You're pretty safe at the Popular End, there's the odd toughie there (Step Ladder Crack and Thrombosis spring to mind).

One I really enjoy is the Louisiana Rib. It'll probably start a fight about whether it's a terrible suggestion, but it's no sandbag, it's escapable, and it's safe. It has quite a delicate move for VS, moving up from the gear - a mild buzz.
CurlyStevo - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy: straight crack is an uber soft touch at vs. i think via media and heatherwall are better climbs tho.
strudles - on 26 Oct 2012

heather wall isn't too hard but I certainly made it hard when I climbed it this summer ! loads of gear and I placed and fumbled too much :)
birdie num num - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
Inverted V would be quite a tough outing for someone just breaking into the grade. Similar Hargreave's, ok not tough climbing but certainly a bit necky particularly if your range of cams is a little on the lean side. Wouldn't be Num Num's recommendation.
In reply to birdie num num: I didn't like Inverted V. Hargreave's isn't a soft touch and is best left until you've consolidated the grade a bit. I think High Neb Buttress is similar but a bit easier.
jules699 - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy: I wouldnt say MTFU, just dont worry bout it. It aint much of a change amigo...
Ciderslider - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: You certainly will mate, LR is not a good route for someone cutting their teeth at VS - there are a couple of delicate moves some way above gear with the chance of a ground fall (even if the gear holds).
It's fine if you keep cool but if you panicked you could be well in the shite.

Heather wall is great - it's a path at VS and has more gear than you can shake a stick at (just watch the first foothold which is polished).
Central trinity is good and well protected with cams.
Mississipi buttress direct is great as long as you're feeling strong (uber jug hanging with loadsa gear).
Good luck
Jon Stewart - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Ciderslider:
> there are a couple of delicate moves some way above gear with the chance of a ground fall (even if the gear holds).

I'll give my flat to the first person who manages to take a ground fall of LR without the gear ripping. You have to place the gear by the way, I'm not making an offer that's worth the hospital trip!
Ciderslider - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to birdie num num: Totally agree with num num in relation to Hargreaves - did it not long after breaking into VS and although the moves are easy sorting gear can be awkward - I totally fecked gear and might as well have soloed it - still remember how scared I was !!!!!!
Inverted V is an easy touch although my mate lead it as his first VS - he's super strong but really struggled (lack of footwork).
Ciderslider - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: Maybe a ground fall is being a bit pessimistic but it is a bit bold for someone starting out at the grade
sparksy - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: where's this flat then?
Jon Stewart - on 26 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy: It's in Sheffield, it's not bad, 2 bed, open plan kitchen/living, fully furnished.

The rules are, you have to attempt to the lead route, competently using a 'standard' rack for gritstone (with a few cams), everything in working order, place gear competently where it's available, stay on route. If you fall off, you have to hit the ground from high up, fully hard, in what a consensus of spectating climbers (who have not been briefed) agree is a 'groundfall'. You may get away without broken bones, as long as the climbers around agree it's lucky escape.
Offwidth - on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to birdie num num: agreed! the other recommendation of Jamie is even worse: the new version of Gargoyle Buttress in the definitive is rather hard for VS (a little knowledge is clearly a dangerous thing). Like Curly, Straight Crack might be near the top of my list, also Heather Wall and Inverted V as long as they don't get dogged as a result. If someone wants to practice and are not sure and might dog a 2/3 star classic isnt a great choice.
kirsten on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to Offwidth: I'm in the same boat and found Gargoyle Butress and Hargreaves fine, the latter an absbolute joy, but I like things that rely on your feet, i have a lot of cams and can just about sort twin ropes out.
deacondeacon - on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy: a nice area for the hs/vs climber is the shorter crags between popular and plantation. This part of Stanage tends to be a bit quieter and the routes are great, just a bit short.

Martello Buttress- tricky start off the floor (4C) but if you can do it the rest of the route is a romp.
Bynes Route- nice solid moves to a tricky top out, theres an alternative finish called 'Zel' which is nice but often a little dirty.
Dovers wall route 3/Dovers Wall Route 4- both very steady at vs.

victim of mathematics - on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:

I always find the first moves to get over onto the slab of Hargreaves original an absolute pig. The slab itself is fine though.

Heather Wall can feel a bit steep. With a confident approach it's pretty straightforwards, but if you dither near the bottom it could start feeling quite uphill.

Inverted V is very soft. Hell Crack is soft if you can jam a bit.
alan moore - on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:
Narrow Buttress, The Nose, Fairy Steps, Titanic but seem to remember Cosmic Crack being easiest of all. Wall End Slab is also easy if you miss out the 5b start.
In reply to sparksy:

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/graded.php?area=1

Includes routes from all the Eastern Edges. Pick a green one and you should be OK. (Except maybe on Zigzag Flake Crack)


Chris
sparksy - on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to all: did paradise wall, inverted V, via media and zig zag flake today. Great suggestions, thanks!
Blue Straggler - on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:

Good work. I am too late but I would have suggested this - an HS route with an optional VS finish
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=98072

Might have been a poor suggestion though as I thought the harder stuff both in terms of gear AND moves, was all on the HS bit! Others seem to agree, but perhaps it would feel more "VS" if you were just breaking into the grade. Anyway if you did Inverted V ok you'd have strolled up Castle Crack.

alooker - on 27 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: I've never seen this before, where have I been?!
Offwidth - on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Be straight please: the green routes are low in the grade they are not always good first leads at the grade because some are bold (and I'd argue some are also wrong, eg Zig Zag Flake Crack and also Gargoyle as I keep saying has had a new hard finish bolted on in the definitive).
Ciderslider - on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: Ah, place the gear competently - I claim my flat ;-)
When I started leading VS my gear placement wasn't all that good, and looking back I could see that it could have got me into trouble.
When can I move in ;-)
Ciderslider - on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to sparksy)
>
Hell Crack is soft if you can jam a bit.

And a complete shit if you can't ! The clue is in the name.

geologist - on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:

My first were Cosmic Crack and Inverted V. I was similar in the way, I dithered about getting into the grade. I did second them first before leading them both, but found both easy.
Ciderslider - on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy: Well done mate, if you found via media ok central trinity will be ok - don't forget heather wall.
Duncan Bourne - on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to sparksy:
Watch out for Lancaster Wall. Fairly straight forward till you get to the top, then it is a long reach on tiny slopers above your gear to finish. Escapable though if you slink off left or right.
Ciderslider - on 28 Oct 2012
In reply to Duncan Bourne: HVS though (all be it a soft touch apparently)
In reply to sparksy:
> (In reply to all) did paradise wall, inverted V, via media and zig zag flake today. Great suggestions, thanks!

Good effort for starters! Plenty more in that list to go at.


Chris


GrahamD - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to birdie num num:

> Inverted V would be quite a tough outing for someone just breaking into the grade.

Inverted V is no harder than the uber classic HSs of Demo Route and Central Groove.
victim of mathematics - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to birdie num num)
>
> [...]
>
> Inverted V is no harder than the uber classic HSs of Demo Route and Central Groove.

I'd say it was probably a fair bit easier than either of them...
Simon Caldwell - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to GrahamD:
> Inverted V is no harder than the uber classic HSs of Demo Route and Central Groove.

I found it much harder, but probably because these forums had led me to expect an overgraded Severe :-)
crossdressingrodney - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

Yep, agreed!

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