/ soft touch VS' at stanage
Anyone got recommendations that bridge the gap between HS and VS? Yes, I should just mtfu...
Try Heather Wall Vs 4c. Not soft, but then not hard. About the grade really.
Inverted V, Hargreave's Original, Gargoyle Buttress, Via Media, Paradise Wall. Not complete soft touches, but easy at the grade.
Inverted V, Central Trinity, Via Media.
I found all these easier than right twin crack.
You're pretty safe at the Popular End, there's the odd toughie there (Step Ladder Crack and Thrombosis spring to mind).
One I really enjoy is the Louisiana Rib. It'll probably start a fight about whether it's a terrible suggestion, but it's no sandbag, it's escapable, and it's safe. It has quite a delicate move for VS, moving up from the gear - a mild buzz.
heather wall isn't too hard but I certainly made it hard when I climbed it this summer ! loads of gear and I placed and fumbled too much :)
Inverted V would be quite a tough outing for someone just breaking into the grade. Similar Hargreave's, ok not tough climbing but certainly a bit necky particularly if your range of cams is a little on the lean side. Wouldn't be Num Num's recommendation.
It's fine if you keep cool but if you panicked you could be well in the shite.
Heather wall is great - it's a path at VS and has more gear than you can shake a stick at (just watch the first foothold which is polished).
Central trinity is good and well protected with cams.
Mississipi buttress direct is great as long as you're feeling strong (uber jug hanging with loadsa gear).
I'll give my flat to the first person who manages to take a ground fall of LR without the gear ripping. You have to place the gear by the way, I'm not making an offer that's worth the hospital trip!
Inverted V is an easy touch although my mate lead it as his first VS - he's super strong but really struggled (lack of footwork).
The rules are, you have to attempt to the lead route, competently using a 'standard' rack for gritstone (with a few cams), everything in working order, place gear competently where it's available, stay on route. If you fall off, you have to hit the ground from high up, fully hard, in what a consensus of spectating climbers (who have not been briefed) agree is a 'groundfall'. You may get away without broken bones, as long as the climbers around agree it's lucky escape.
Martello Buttress- tricky start off the floor (4C) but if you can do it the rest of the route is a romp.
Bynes Route- nice solid moves to a tricky top out, theres an alternative finish called 'Zel' which is nice but often a little dirty.
Dovers wall route 3/Dovers Wall Route 4- both very steady at vs.
I always find the first moves to get over onto the slab of Hargreaves original an absolute pig. The slab itself is fine though.
Heather Wall can feel a bit steep. With a confident approach it's pretty straightforwards, but if you dither near the bottom it could start feeling quite uphill.
Inverted V is very soft. Hell Crack is soft if you can jam a bit.
Narrow Buttress, The Nose, Fairy Steps, Titanic but seem to remember Cosmic Crack being easiest of all. Wall End Slab is also easy if you miss out the 5b start.
Includes routes from all the Eastern Edges. Pick a green one and you should be OK. (Except maybe on Zigzag Flake Crack)
Good work. I am too late but I would have suggested this - an HS route with an optional VS finish
Might have been a poor suggestion though as I thought the harder stuff both in terms of gear AND moves, was all on the HS bit! Others seem to agree, but perhaps it would feel more "VS" if you were just breaking into the grade. Anyway if you did Inverted V ok you'd have strolled up Castle Crack.
Be straight please: the green routes are low in the grade they are not always good first leads at the grade because some are bold (and I'd argue some are also wrong, eg Zig Zag Flake Crack and also Gargoyle as I keep saying has had a new hard finish bolted on in the definitive).
When I started leading VS my gear placement wasn't all that good, and looking back I could see that it could have got me into trouble.
When can I move in ;-)
And a complete shit if you can't ! The clue is in the name.
My first were Cosmic Crack and Inverted V. I was similar in the way, I dithered about getting into the grade. I did second them first before leading them both, but found both easy.
Watch out for Lancaster Wall. Fairly straight forward till you get to the top, then it is a long reach on tiny slopers above your gear to finish. Escapable though if you slink off left or right.
Good effort for starters! Plenty more in that list to go at.
Inverted V is no harder than the uber classic HSs of Demo Route and Central Groove.
> Inverted V is no harder than the uber classic HSs of Demo Route and Central Groove.
I'd say it was probably a fair bit easier than either of them...
I found it much harder, but probably because these forums had led me to expect an overgraded Severe :-)
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