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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (292) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=524263&v=1#x7062612
Posters:
Kevster – circuits for Chorro then?
Grubes – Not a bad week. Looking forward to the Foundry myself today, haven’t been in ages.
Annak – Awesome. It’s good that you now know what you’re capable of. Next time you go hard you’ll probably recover faster too.
NMN – Some things are out of your control. Still looking like a good volume. Most of us in Fit club would be happy with two of those runs in a week!
Exile – I bet you felt good for that run! Re power, I’ve found the campus board really helpful for quick gains, if your skin can take it. I remember reading about how it’s important to train below your max ability so you can do sets and make a decent session out of it.
AJM – Wow some good trad there. Don’t think I’ve ever multipitched above E1, must be committing. Funny how you can warm into a session and go hard just when you know you should be going home.
Pebbles – Better make some goals then! I’d echo AJM about route reading. Simply try it more and have a think later that day about the moves and how accurate your predictions were. You get pretty good at (constructive?) daydreaming…
Joughton – Come on, Seams the Same is not E2 :P Well done though, and always good to toprope the harder stuff. Have fun in Spain.
IainRUK – That’s a lotta miles again. Condolences on your race this week.
Ally smith – Good performance outdoors after your rest days!
Alex@home – Like it. Good for a non-climbing week
Maria85 – Sounds like a lovely weekend on grit. Hope you feel better now.
Rollo – Solid week.
Oddtoast – I’m not familiar with couch to 5k. If you have a good pair of running shoes, just go running as far as feels comfortable (my first run was about half a mile). Then keep running 2 or 3 times a week and naturally build the distance up. 5k (20-30min for a beginner) is a good goaI to be running. I don’t think you can go far wrong 
Mattrm - Good luck today
Nomics4Sale – Sounds like a great trip. Well done on 7a RP. Good that you now have some technique points to improve.
Biscuit – Wow so much psyche! Great work on the 7b, and doing the moves on a 7c+. Your self-made training must be working.
Ali – 77 problems is a lot!
Eagle River – That lovely time after a trip when you can give training a fresh start or a different focus 
Mrchewey – Flipping heck, glad to hear you don’t have a brain tumor! Looks like a good week, although bouldering in the dark with no mats isn’t my idea of fun.
Steve John B – quite week but still useful. I expect your swimming is more convincing than mine… but I say that poor technique provides a harder workout :P
Jkarran – Strange performance from you. Never mind, I’m sure you’ll attack the 7s again.
Leon – Good variety, but low on the volume.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (292) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=524263&v=1#x7062612
Posters:
Kevster – circuits for Chorro then?
Grubes – Not a bad week. Looking forward to the Foundry myself today, haven’t been in ages.
Annak – Awesome. It’s good that you now know what you’re capable of. Next time you go hard you’ll probably recover faster too.
NMN – Some things are out of your control. Still looking like a good volume. Most of us in Fit club would be happy with two of those runs in a week!
Exile – I bet you felt good for that run! Re power, I’ve found the campus board really helpful for quick gains, if your skin can take it. I remember reading about how it’s important to train below your max ability so you can do sets and make a decent session out of it.
AJM – Wow some good trad there. Don’t think I’ve ever multipitched above E1, must be committing. Funny how you can warm into a session and go hard just when you know you should be going home.
Pebbles – Better make some goals then! I’d echo AJM about route reading. Simply try it more and have a think later that day about the moves and how accurate your predictions were. You get pretty good at (constructive?) daydreaming…
Joughton – Come on, Seams the Same is not E2 :P Well done though, and always good to toprope the harder stuff. Have fun in Spain.
IainRUK – That’s a lotta miles again. Condolences on your race this week.
Ally smith – Good performance outdoors after your rest days!
Alex@home – Like it. Good for a non-climbing week
Maria85 – Sounds like a lovely weekend on grit. Hope you feel better now.
Rollo – Solid week.
Oddtoast – I’m not familiar with couch to 5k. If you have a good pair of running shoes, just go running as far as feels comfortable (my first run was about half a mile). Then keep running 2 or 3 times a week and naturally build the distance up. 5k (20-30min for a beginner) is a good goaI to be running. I don’t think you can go far wrong 
Mattrm - Good luck today
Nomics4Sale – Sounds like a great trip. Well done on 7a RP. Good that you now have some technique points to improve.
Biscuit – Wow so much psyche! Great work on the 7b, and doing the moves on a 7c+. Your self-made training must be working.
Ali – 77 problems is a lot!
Eagle River – That lovely time after a trip when you can give training a fresh start or a different focus 
Mrchewey – Flipping heck, glad to hear you don’t have a brain tumor! Looks like a good week, although bouldering in the dark with no mats isn’t my idea of fun.
Steve John B – quite week but still useful. I expect your swimming is more convincing than mine… but I say that poor technique provides a harder workout :P
Jkarran – Strange performance from you. Never mind, I’m sure you’ll attack the 7s again.
Leon – Good variety, but low on the volume.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
M- TCS Loughborough Bit of everything but finished the 7b circuit (about time)
T-
W-Military training, some casualty drags and carries but nothing too hard.
TCS Circuits and some v7 slabs
T-TCS New V4-5 problems. Ran 5k/19:30 into the centre, then the momentum carried through on the climbing. No control/static strength but got some good problems by jumping around. 21/30 new problems completed.
F-
S-Instructing at Stanage High neb. Enjoyed teaching some people to lead, then had a sunset attempt of Quietus Right Hand, E4. Did the bold E4 traverse, but dogged the final pull due to embarassing footwork. Never mind.
S-Instructing at the Foundry, but chance for some personal climbing too.
M- TCS Loughborough Bit of everything but finished the 7b circuit (about time)
T-
W-Military training, some casualty drags and carries but nothing too hard.
TCS Circuits and some v7 slabs
T-TCS New V4-5 problems. Ran 5k/19:30 into the centre, then the momentum carried through on the climbing. No control/static strength but got some good problems by jumping around. 21/30 new problems completed.
F-
S-Instructing at Stanage High neb. Enjoyed teaching some people to lead, then had a sunset attempt of Quietus Right Hand, E4. Did the bold E4 traverse, but dogged the final pull due to embarassing footwork. Never mind.
S-Instructing at the Foundry, but chance for some personal climbing too.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Hi Dan, just got back from Kalymnos in the early hours, had a great week.
Goals for Kalymnos were: aim to flash F6c+ or harder every day 'on' in Kalymnos, and onsight at least 1 F7a.
We arrived late last Saturday night.
Sunday: Headed up to Spartan Wall area to start. My mates monopolised the best warm-up and then told me how great a F6c called Lucifer's Hammer was, so warm-up tactics went out the window and I go on that first. I got mildly pumped but it was actually ok and I onsighted it, a good start to the trip. I then did the warm-ups, a F6a+ and a F6b, and we then headed around in to Spartacus area where I was keen to try Kerveros, a classic F7a, as a first onsight attempt. Unfortunately this went badly, I got boxed and mentally wasn't quite in the zone so had several rests. However 1st RP felt very steady which was nice. I then had a go at onsighting a F6c+ called 'Mon Batchounousougounoudoudou' (say that!) but I was tired and it was steep and felt more like F7a, cue failure. It was good just for getting used to the climbing style though.
Monday: Went up to Panorama first. Again the warm-ups were taken and rather than waiting I made the same mistake and got straight on Uncle Bert, a F6c+. This time it didn't pay off and I had to rest several times, a really poor performance. At this point I realised I was going to have to get used to the rock and onsighting again before going for more 6c+/7a onsights, so focussed on this the rest of that day. I did a F6a+, a F6b, and three F6cs - Taz at Grande Grotta, and Bye Bye Doc and Asklipios at Afternoon, all onsight, so it was a good day in the end and gave me much more confidence.
Tuesday: Went up to Stankill/Ivory Tower/Kalydna. Started off much more sensibly with two F6bs to warm up, then did another F6c called Aypa that had a very 'grit-esque' move through a roof with a jamming crack, then another F6a+ and then a F6c+ called Sidewinder, all onsight. Then had a crack at my first decent F7a onsight attempt of the trip - a route called Bugboo. I had a good go but unfortunately completely mis-read the sequence exiting the crux and ended up irrecoverably off-route. Once my mate told me where to go I finished it off clean, and am confident I would have flashed it with beta, so happy with performance - much improved over 2 days earlier on Kerveros!
Wednesday: Went up to Odyssey. Did a F5c+ and a F6a+ to warm-up, then did another F6c called Ciao Vecio, which was really cool. Decided it was time for another F7a attempt and watched a Spanish couple finishing one called Calypso. They both fell at the same point (last but one move after a very steep wall) and I saw what their eventual sequence was, so had some good beta. went up and much to my surprise (the Spaniards had looked pretty ripped!) it all felt pretty easy and I got my first F7a flash! (or so I thought..) I then got on Dionysos, another cool-looking F7a just next-door, involving very steep moves on good holds. I had a good go and made it all the way to the finishing holds on-sight, but unfortunately these were rubbish and I couldn't clip the chains! Bit gutted but also pleased with the attempt. Lastly I then decided to dog up Omiros, a really nice-looking F7b next-door again. It didn't disappoint - the moves were really nice and it felt like I was having to pull properly hard for the first time on the trip really. I didn't have enough skin left for a RP though so stripped it. When I got back to the room I looked in the 2010 guide and was a bit gutted to see Calypso had been down-graded to F6c+! (although all the ukc votes are still for 7a...)
Thursday: Back to Odyssey! Did a F6a+ to warm up then got straight back on Dionysos. This time, having watched a friend do it with some cheeky heel beta, clipping the chains was do-able and it was an easy redpoint really, didn't get pumped. Then I got back on Omiros. First go up I fell at the second crux having forgotten my sequence, but second attempt dispatched it nicely Then decided another F7a onsight was in order to end the day, and got on one called Ulisse Coperto di Sale (which used to get F7a+, although I didn't know this at the time). It was a bit sequency and I had to go up and down a few times which got quite pumpy, but eventually found myself at the last move, which is the crux off two small holds to a jug (after a difficult clip). Guttingly the jug is a bit blind and I went for the wrong bit, missed it and fell off. If I'd latched that it was all over - another good attempt though.
Friday: Grande Grotta for a look at DNA, a super-steep F7a (again, used to get F7a+, but it isn't) on stalactites and tufas. I had wanted to do this all week as it is so uniquely 'Kalymnos' so was quite psyched. Unfortunately there are no suitable warm-ups in that style so I just did a bit of traversing and some chin-ups on jugs at the bottom, then got on with it. I was moving quite well and got to a semi knee bar rest at about half-height, but couldnt get much out of it as I was wearing swimshorts (should have taken Andy's kneepad!) so kept moving. Was just getting a bit too boxed but then about 2/3 height managed to find a really cool back-and-foot rest in a pair of tufas, which really helped. Then pushed through right up to the last bolt, which I couldn't reach as it was off to the side! I think my effing-and-blinding could be heard in Massouri; it certainly caused a lot of amusement in the Grotta as I thought I might fail at the very end - I really don't like missing out bolts when onsighting! Anyway, eventually I manned up and continued up, somehow climbed in to another rest position with my back on a tufa, and the last bit was easy - first F7a onsight! Well chuffed. After that I had a go at Afroditi, a short/hard F7a+ next to DNA, but couldn't do the crux properly so came down. We then went round to Spartacus again and I put the clips up Gladiator, an awesome F7b, but was feeling weak so stripped and went down for a swim on the beach. I think at this point after doing DNA, the 6 days on were finally catching up.
Saturday: Went up to Spartacus again for a morning attempt at Gladiator before leaving. Put the clips up, then on first RP attempt my foot slipped off a small edge just as I pulled through the final hard move - gutted as I thought it was in the bag. Had a break then got back on it, and despite at this point feeling more tired than on the previous attempt (and with very achy shoulders and elbows!) I managed to push through and did it. Well chuffed - great end to the trip and all before midday!
So, total ticklist for the week was:
2x F7b, both 2nd RP attempt
1 x F7a onsight
1 x F6c+/7a flash
3 x other F7as very close to onsight, one of which I later RP'd
1 x other F7a RP
1 x F6c+ onsight
6 x F6c onsight
5 x F6b onsight
4 x F6a+ onsight
1 x F5c+ onsight
I didn't achieve the F6c+ flash-every-day aim, but in hindsight this was over-ambitious. I'm really pleased with the F6c onsight record, the F7a flash/onsights and the F7bs, which were both fairly quick redpoints. I even felt like I had some stamina by the end of the trip on DNA, which is quite nice! I was also pleased not to need a rest day - I didn't feel at all tired until Friday afternoon despite a severe lack of sleep and a stomach bug, which bodes well for training.
And on top of that, all the routes were just awesome - I didn't do a bad one all trip and the big ticks were all 3 stars +! Kalymnos is an awesome place (even the beach and beer).
Now, grit bouldering...
Si
Hi Dan, just got back from Kalymnos in the early hours, had a great week.
Goals for Kalymnos were: aim to flash F6c+ or harder every day 'on' in Kalymnos, and onsight at least 1 F7a.
We arrived late last Saturday night.
Sunday: Headed up to Spartan Wall area to start. My mates monopolised the best warm-up and then told me how great a F6c called Lucifer's Hammer was, so warm-up tactics went out the window and I go on that first. I got mildly pumped but it was actually ok and I onsighted it, a good start to the trip. I then did the warm-ups, a F6a+ and a F6b, and we then headed around in to Spartacus area where I was keen to try Kerveros, a classic F7a, as a first onsight attempt. Unfortunately this went badly, I got boxed and mentally wasn't quite in the zone so had several rests. However 1st RP felt very steady which was nice. I then had a go at onsighting a F6c+ called 'Mon Batchounousougounoudoudou' (say that!) but I was tired and it was steep and felt more like F7a, cue failure. It was good just for getting used to the climbing style though.
Monday: Went up to Panorama first. Again the warm-ups were taken and rather than waiting I made the same mistake and got straight on Uncle Bert, a F6c+. This time it didn't pay off and I had to rest several times, a really poor performance. At this point I realised I was going to have to get used to the rock and onsighting again before going for more 6c+/7a onsights, so focussed on this the rest of that day. I did a F6a+, a F6b, and three F6cs - Taz at Grande Grotta, and Bye Bye Doc and Asklipios at Afternoon, all onsight, so it was a good day in the end and gave me much more confidence.
Tuesday: Went up to Stankill/Ivory Tower/Kalydna. Started off much more sensibly with two F6bs to warm up, then did another F6c called Aypa that had a very 'grit-esque' move through a roof with a jamming crack, then another F6a+ and then a F6c+ called Sidewinder, all onsight. Then had a crack at my first decent F7a onsight attempt of the trip - a route called Bugboo. I had a good go but unfortunately completely mis-read the sequence exiting the crux and ended up irrecoverably off-route. Once my mate told me where to go I finished it off clean, and am confident I would have flashed it with beta, so happy with performance - much improved over 2 days earlier on Kerveros!
Wednesday: Went up to Odyssey. Did a F5c+ and a F6a+ to warm-up, then did another F6c called Ciao Vecio, which was really cool. Decided it was time for another F7a attempt and watched a Spanish couple finishing one called Calypso. They both fell at the same point (last but one move after a very steep wall) and I saw what their eventual sequence was, so had some good beta. went up and much to my surprise (the Spaniards had looked pretty ripped!) it all felt pretty easy and I got my first F7a flash! (or so I thought..) I then got on Dionysos, another cool-looking F7a just next-door, involving very steep moves on good holds. I had a good go and made it all the way to the finishing holds on-sight, but unfortunately these were rubbish and I couldn't clip the chains! Bit gutted but also pleased with the attempt. Lastly I then decided to dog up Omiros, a really nice-looking F7b next-door again. It didn't disappoint - the moves were really nice and it felt like I was having to pull properly hard for the first time on the trip really. I didn't have enough skin left for a RP though so stripped it. When I got back to the room I looked in the 2010 guide and was a bit gutted to see Calypso had been down-graded to F6c+! (although all the ukc votes are still for 7a...)
Thursday: Back to Odyssey! Did a F6a+ to warm up then got straight back on Dionysos. This time, having watched a friend do it with some cheeky heel beta, clipping the chains was do-able and it was an easy redpoint really, didn't get pumped. Then I got back on Omiros. First go up I fell at the second crux having forgotten my sequence, but second attempt dispatched it nicely Then decided another F7a onsight was in order to end the day, and got on one called Ulisse Coperto di Sale (which used to get F7a+, although I didn't know this at the time). It was a bit sequency and I had to go up and down a few times which got quite pumpy, but eventually found myself at the last move, which is the crux off two small holds to a jug (after a difficult clip). Guttingly the jug is a bit blind and I went for the wrong bit, missed it and fell off. If I'd latched that it was all over - another good attempt though.
Friday: Grande Grotta for a look at DNA, a super-steep F7a (again, used to get F7a+, but it isn't) on stalactites and tufas. I had wanted to do this all week as it is so uniquely 'Kalymnos' so was quite psyched. Unfortunately there are no suitable warm-ups in that style so I just did a bit of traversing and some chin-ups on jugs at the bottom, then got on with it. I was moving quite well and got to a semi knee bar rest at about half-height, but couldnt get much out of it as I was wearing swimshorts (should have taken Andy's kneepad!) so kept moving. Was just getting a bit too boxed but then about 2/3 height managed to find a really cool back-and-foot rest in a pair of tufas, which really helped. Then pushed through right up to the last bolt, which I couldn't reach as it was off to the side! I think my effing-and-blinding could be heard in Massouri; it certainly caused a lot of amusement in the Grotta as I thought I might fail at the very end - I really don't like missing out bolts when onsighting! Anyway, eventually I manned up and continued up, somehow climbed in to another rest position with my back on a tufa, and the last bit was easy - first F7a onsight! Well chuffed. After that I had a go at Afroditi, a short/hard F7a+ next to DNA, but couldn't do the crux properly so came down. We then went round to Spartacus again and I put the clips up Gladiator, an awesome F7b, but was feeling weak so stripped and went down for a swim on the beach. I think at this point after doing DNA, the 6 days on were finally catching up.
Saturday: Went up to Spartacus again for a morning attempt at Gladiator before leaving. Put the clips up, then on first RP attempt my foot slipped off a small edge just as I pulled through the final hard move - gutted as I thought it was in the bag. Had a break then got back on it, and despite at this point feeling more tired than on the previous attempt (and with very achy shoulders and elbows!) I managed to push through and did it. Well chuffed - great end to the trip and all before midday!
So, total ticklist for the week was:
2x F7b, both 2nd RP attempt
1 x F7a onsight
1 x F6c+/7a flash
3 x other F7as very close to onsight, one of which I later RP'd
1 x other F7a RP
1 x F6c+ onsight
6 x F6c onsight
5 x F6b onsight
4 x F6a+ onsight
1 x F5c+ onsight
I didn't achieve the F6c+ flash-every-day aim, but in hindsight this was over-ambitious. I'm really pleased with the F6c onsight record, the F7a flash/onsights and the F7bs, which were both fairly quick redpoints. I even felt like I had some stamina by the end of the trip on DNA, which is quite nice! I was also pleased not to need a rest day - I didn't feel at all tired until Friday afternoon despite a severe lack of sleep and a stomach bug, which bodes well for training.
And on top of that, all the routes were just awesome - I didn't do a bad one all trip and the big ticks were all 3 stars +! Kalymnos is an awesome place (even the beach and beer).
Now, grit bouldering...
Si
In reply to Daniel Heath:
I am literally so psyched right now. Climbed on the best rock and the best routes I've ever been on in Turkey. Oh wow. I am so keen for Spain at Xmas. My ticklist isn't quite as impressive as Si Dh's considering I was trying to tick 8a. Infact I didn't even get on one... How disappointing. Maybe, but I had a quality time. Love every single route. Now I am so sad to be back. Crap - back to work in the morning.
Sat - Early start (massively hungover from end of term night out) Spent the whole day travelling from Brum to Geyikibaryi.
Sun - First day on it. Sarkit. Pretty darn tired from all that travelling. Rui-ing the bad choice of taking no cash. We found ourselves in a new area where nobody spoke English, no money, no food and worst of all it was absolutely pissing it down. Torrential rain. Ahhh shit. Had a lie in and was a bit grumpy. We decided to brave a walk in the rain to another accomodation in the hope for some English speakers. We ha enough money to buy some bread and some water. They said don't worry about the rain - the rock should be fine. It was. Wow. It was so dry. Rain didn't have any effect on the rock. In fact - it actually made the temperature pretty perfect. So Day 1 I managed to flash a 6c (first route of the trip) then O/S a 7a and then O/S a quality 7a+.
Mon - Magara. Got driven to Antalya and took 500quid out in Euro's and Lira. That'll do. Holiday started getting much better from this point in terms of eating and drinking. Dropped the flash of an awesome 7a - with a knee bar rest at half height against a tufa. 1st RP. Then I jumped on a 7c with in situ draws - found the last move hard and ended up lowering off the penultimate bolt.
Tues - Magara. Went back for the 7c. Worked the top move - didn't feel too bad today. Gave it to good Redpoints. Unfortunately I didn't manage it. Felt a long way away from me. Which was pretty confidence sapping considering I'd come out for an 8a. Later on I jumped on a 7a in the dark to retrieve draws and ended up falling off at the top as I had a duff sequence. Not a very successful day.
Weds - Mevlana. Best crag I've ever been to. Wow. What a wall. O/S'ed a 7a to warm up. F*cked up the quick draws as it was long and had some mega drag. Felt like I was pulling up a fridge. Just about managed to clip the chains. Then the best route of the trip for me which was a 7a+. Mega line. Tufa up to new bar rest between small stalactite. Breathe. Wrestle big tufa. Big move out to a sloper. Cut loose. Slap up tufa. Fall in to stalactive 2. Whack in a big kneebar. Clip the chains. Boom. Physical. Went 2nd RP. Felt nails - but amazing. Finished the day with a 7a flash.
Thurs - Magara/Poseidon. Warmed up finishing the 7a I fell off on Tues. Then walked down to Poseidon - another unbelievably good crag. I fell off high on the onsight of a 7b. Got it 1st RP. Awesome route.
Fri - Trebanna. Much talked about crag. Overly busy I thought. Not as goo as Mevlana and Sarkit. Warmed up flashing a 7a. Then tried to O/S a 7c. Got mid way through the crux and fell off. Worked it a little and gave it an RP. No such luck. Worked it a little more and sent it 2nd RP. Didnt' feel too hard and thought I was back in the game.
Sat - Ottoman, Poseidon and Mevlana. Warmed up on a 40m 6c. Perfect climbing. Absolutely perfect. Then flashed a 7b. Then final route of the day and the best route I've ever been on. Absolutely unreal quality. Fell on pretty much the last move on the O/S and then fell after the last move (wtf?) as a foot hold blew right at the top. Damn. It was dark so didn't have time to repeat. Noooooo!!! Haha.
Sun - Tired and have a lot of work to do for tomorrow.
PSYCHED.
I am literally so psyched right now. Climbed on the best rock and the best routes I've ever been on in Turkey. Oh wow. I am so keen for Spain at Xmas. My ticklist isn't quite as impressive as Si Dh's considering I was trying to tick 8a. Infact I didn't even get on one... How disappointing. Maybe, but I had a quality time. Love every single route. Now I am so sad to be back. Crap - back to work in the morning.
Sat - Early start (massively hungover from end of term night out) Spent the whole day travelling from Brum to Geyikibaryi.
Sun - First day on it. Sarkit. Pretty darn tired from all that travelling. Rui-ing the bad choice of taking no cash. We found ourselves in a new area where nobody spoke English, no money, no food and worst of all it was absolutely pissing it down. Torrential rain. Ahhh shit. Had a lie in and was a bit grumpy. We decided to brave a walk in the rain to another accomodation in the hope for some English speakers. We ha enough money to buy some bread and some water. They said don't worry about the rain - the rock should be fine. It was. Wow. It was so dry. Rain didn't have any effect on the rock. In fact - it actually made the temperature pretty perfect. So Day 1 I managed to flash a 6c (first route of the trip) then O/S a 7a and then O/S a quality 7a+.
Mon - Magara. Got driven to Antalya and took 500quid out in Euro's and Lira. That'll do. Holiday started getting much better from this point in terms of eating and drinking. Dropped the flash of an awesome 7a - with a knee bar rest at half height against a tufa. 1st RP. Then I jumped on a 7c with in situ draws - found the last move hard and ended up lowering off the penultimate bolt.
Tues - Magara. Went back for the 7c. Worked the top move - didn't feel too bad today. Gave it to good Redpoints. Unfortunately I didn't manage it. Felt a long way away from me. Which was pretty confidence sapping considering I'd come out for an 8a. Later on I jumped on a 7a in the dark to retrieve draws and ended up falling off at the top as I had a duff sequence. Not a very successful day.
Weds - Mevlana. Best crag I've ever been to. Wow. What a wall. O/S'ed a 7a to warm up. F*cked up the quick draws as it was long and had some mega drag. Felt like I was pulling up a fridge. Just about managed to clip the chains. Then the best route of the trip for me which was a 7a+. Mega line. Tufa up to new bar rest between small stalactite. Breathe. Wrestle big tufa. Big move out to a sloper. Cut loose. Slap up tufa. Fall in to stalactive 2. Whack in a big kneebar. Clip the chains. Boom. Physical. Went 2nd RP. Felt nails - but amazing. Finished the day with a 7a flash.
Thurs - Magara/Poseidon. Warmed up finishing the 7a I fell off on Tues. Then walked down to Poseidon - another unbelievably good crag. I fell off high on the onsight of a 7b. Got it 1st RP. Awesome route.
Fri - Trebanna. Much talked about crag. Overly busy I thought. Not as goo as Mevlana and Sarkit. Warmed up flashing a 7a. Then tried to O/S a 7c. Got mid way through the crux and fell off. Worked it a little and gave it an RP. No such luck. Worked it a little more and sent it 2nd RP. Didnt' feel too hard and thought I was back in the game.
Sat - Ottoman, Poseidon and Mevlana. Warmed up on a 40m 6c. Perfect climbing. Absolutely perfect. Then flashed a 7b. Then final route of the day and the best route I've ever been on. Absolutely unreal quality. Fell on pretty much the last move on the O/S and then fell after the last move (wtf?) as a foot hold blew right at the top. Damn. It was dark so didn't have time to repeat. Noooooo!!! Haha.
Sun - Tired and have a lot of work to do for tomorrow.
PSYCHED.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan.
Nice one on giving Quietus RH a go. It looks an amazing line.
A poor week from me this time.
M - Last day in Costa Blanca, covered in last weeks post.
T - Amptrax ( 8 pitch 6a ) with 3 clients. Hard day mentally and physically
W - Rest
T - Fingerboard. repeaters. Used the old holds and not the recent harder ones to ease back in. Felt OK
F - Nothing followed by a monster session until 4am.
S - worst hangover, ever !
S - 2 hr dog walk and nothing else will happen as i am still hungover.
Weather has played havoc this week as it's thrown it down and i couldn't get on my board ( it's outside ) or outside climbing. I could still have done much more and getting smashed on Friday night has not helped my weekend plans.
Nothing to do but scratch it down to a bad week and come back strong next week. The forecast is better and i have a couple of days work so hope to get out after work.
Next weeks goals:
Get a new BF% ( had a couple of weeks off ) and reduce it by .5%
Climb 2ce and get a 7b.
Run at least 4 times.
Board x4 including 1 set of repeaters as warm up.
Cheers Dan.
Nice one on giving Quietus RH a go. It looks an amazing line.
A poor week from me this time.
M - Last day in Costa Blanca, covered in last weeks post.
T - Amptrax ( 8 pitch 6a ) with 3 clients. Hard day mentally and physically
W - Rest
T - Fingerboard. repeaters. Used the old holds and not the recent harder ones to ease back in. Felt OK
F - Nothing followed by a monster session until 4am.
S - worst hangover, ever !
S - 2 hr dog walk and nothing else will happen as i am still hungover.
Weather has played havoc this week as it's thrown it down and i couldn't get on my board ( it's outside ) or outside climbing. I could still have done much more and getting smashed on Friday night has not helped my weekend plans.
Nothing to do but scratch it down to a bad week and come back strong next week. The forecast is better and i have a couple of days work so hope to get out after work.
Next weeks goals:
Get a new BF% ( had a couple of weeks off ) and reduce it by .5%
Climb 2ce and get a 7b.
Run at least 4 times.
Board x4 including 1 set of repeaters as warm up.
In reply to Si dH:
Great trip Si.
DNA was my first ever 7a. It used to be 7b and i think has suffered a bit from Kalymnos 'automatic' downgrading. Same with IVI next door that used to be 7b+. It was my first 7a+ but a few think it should be 7b.
Great trip Si.
DNA was my first ever 7a. It used to be 7b and i think has suffered a bit from Kalymnos 'automatic' downgrading. Same with IVI next door that used to be 7b+. It was my first 7a+ but a few think it should be 7b.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Sounds like you've got your psyche back then ? No 8a but it seems to have re-energised you a bit.
What was the last route you did ? You say it's the best route ever but you haven't said what it was called, unless i missed it ?
Sounds like you've got your psyche back then ? No 8a but it seems to have re-energised you a bit.
What was the last route you did ? You say it's the best route ever but you haven't said what it was called, unless i missed it ?
In reply to biscuit:
These trips are amazing for Psyche. It reminds you of why you do it. I just enjoyed sitting around and chilling out thinking about nothing other than climbing/eating/drinking. Fantastic. I might spend less time trying to get out on the weekends in the UK over the next few months and try and slot in more trips abroad over the winter. You out in Spain over xmas/new year? I'm really tempted by Loja/Villaneuva de Cauche. The only reason I'd stay in Chorro is to see Gary and Mel at the OB. Not too fussed about the climbing there.
These trips are amazing for Psyche. It reminds you of why you do it. I just enjoyed sitting around and chilling out thinking about nothing other than climbing/eating/drinking. Fantastic. I might spend less time trying to get out on the weekends in the UK over the next few months and try and slot in more trips abroad over the winter. You out in Spain over xmas/new year? I'm really tempted by Loja/Villaneuva de Cauche. The only reason I'd stay in Chorro is to see Gary and Mel at the OB. Not too fussed about the climbing there.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Yes i'll be here.I am not planning on heading back to the UK until feb/mar time. There is the possibility of a Morocco trip in the New Year but nothing firm yet.
I know a cheap place to stay here:
http://goo.gl/maps/NMLuw
as long as Silvi doesn't have a course on.I think she will be in Argentina for Xmas so i am quite sure it will be free.
It is just off the A92(m) and is 20 mins to Loja, 20 mins to Cauche and you can see the Chilam Balam cave from the terrace. Rosario has loads of quality routes in the 7-8 grades. No guide book but topos are here:
1) http://www.bernabefernandez.com/mis-vias/villanueva-del-rosario/sector-chil...
2) http://www.bernabefernandez.com/mis-vias/villanueva-del-rosario/tajo-madera...
3) http://www.bernabefernandez.com/mis-vias/villanueva-del-rosario/tajo-madera...
And don't forget the top tier of Cauche. 6a-7c. The 7c is supposed to be one of the best in Andalucia, but not as good as the ones in Chilam Balam cave in my opinion ;0)
I know a lad who will be around from December onwards who is staying at the OB and will be trying Lourdes if that floats your boat, if he's not already got it by Xmas which i think he will tbh.
It'll be cold at Loja/in caves though, but only Spain cold not baltic.
Yes i'll be here.I am not planning on heading back to the UK until feb/mar time. There is the possibility of a Morocco trip in the New Year but nothing firm yet.
I know a cheap place to stay here:
http://goo.gl/maps/NMLuw
as long as Silvi doesn't have a course on.I think she will be in Argentina for Xmas so i am quite sure it will be free.
It is just off the A92(m) and is 20 mins to Loja, 20 mins to Cauche and you can see the Chilam Balam cave from the terrace. Rosario has loads of quality routes in the 7-8 grades. No guide book but topos are here:
1) http://www.bernabefernandez.com/mis-vias/villanueva-del-rosario/sector-chil...
2) http://www.bernabefernandez.com/mis-vias/villanueva-del-rosario/tajo-madera...
3) http://www.bernabefernandez.com/mis-vias/villanueva-del-rosario/tajo-madera...
And don't forget the top tier of Cauche. 6a-7c. The 7c is supposed to be one of the best in Andalucia, but not as good as the ones in Chilam Balam cave in my opinion ;0)
I know a lad who will be around from December onwards who is staying at the OB and will be trying Lourdes if that floats your boat, if he's not already got it by Xmas which i think he will tbh.
It'll be cold at Loja/in caves though, but only Spain cold not baltic.
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks Biscuit. I think DNA is always going to be an awkward one to grade because it is so unusual at that grade and sustained steepness. However given the level of effort it took from me, 7a seemed about right. Perhaps if you had all the beta and could find some more weird rests it would seem easier. I don't think I could honestly give it 7a+ or 7b. Having said that, my mate Neil had to rest on his onsight attempt the week before, and he flashed a couple of 7b+'s in the same trip, so who knows. Either way, its a brilliant route.
Thanks Biscuit. I think DNA is always going to be an awkward one to grade because it is so unusual at that grade and sustained steepness. However given the level of effort it took from me, 7a seemed about right. Perhaps if you had all the beta and could find some more weird rests it would seem easier. I don't think I could honestly give it 7a+ or 7b. Having said that, my mate Neil had to rest on his onsight attempt the week before, and he flashed a couple of 7b+'s in the same trip, so who knows. Either way, its a brilliant route.
In reply to biscuit:
Looks very good. What sort of price is the accomodation? I'm pretty psyched for Cauche. Need to finish of Piel Palida. That felt like a mega route last time I was there despite only being about 12m long.
Looks very good. What sort of price is the accomodation? I'm pretty psyched for Cauche. Need to finish of Piel Palida. That felt like a mega route last time I was there despite only being about 12m long.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Depends how many of you there will be. Option 2 for 4 people is 50 euros per night, so 12.50 pppn. I just dossed on an old matress, on a wooden platform, in a shed in the garden, with 6 other blokes side to side for that at the Orange House.
It's small and basic but clean and has everything you need. Being in a town is handy as well for the shops and bars etc. Loads of climbing there and 5 mins from A92 for Loja and Cauche.
http://www.rockclimbingcompany.co.uk/Accommodation_Spain.html
Piel Palida is grim ;0) You must have fingers of steel, those holds are non-existent.
Depends how many of you there will be. Option 2 for 4 people is 50 euros per night, so 12.50 pppn. I just dossed on an old matress, on a wooden platform, in a shed in the garden, with 6 other blokes side to side for that at the Orange House.
It's small and basic but clean and has everything you need. Being in a town is handy as well for the shops and bars etc. Loads of climbing there and 5 mins from A92 for Loja and Cauche.
http://www.rockclimbingcompany.co.uk/Accommodation_Spain.html
Piel Palida is grim ;0) You must have fingers of steel, those holds are non-existent.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Hmm, trying to get a good autumn/winter schedule that works for me!
last weeK:
monday - circuits. 6 laps on 6a traversing wall with 5 minute breaks. not good timing really as it left me tired for
tuesday - routes. too tired for much steep stuff, so did technical slabs instead, for about 2 hours.
weds: nowt
thurs: short bouldering session, (2 hours) warmed up then got on to problems I couldnt do or had struggles on last time. repeated the ones I had struggled on but could only get one of the "couldnt do last times". lots of big thuggy moves so was completely boxed friday
friday: nowt
saturday: was fooled by morning snowstorm into leaving gear behind and going for walk instead - but did take shoes and chalkbag so all was not lost, did a couple of hours soloing along the walk. Which oddly enough turned out to be quite good for forcing me to try and route read a bit better, as without mat, rope or book you really want to have worked out what you are getting into before starting up
sunday:nowt . did impression of couch potato.
so going to juggle schedule around this week, leave the circuits for the end of a bouldering session rather than the start of the week, do a bouldering session as the first, then routes, then bouldering/traversing circuits. And routes plan is going to be to focus on steep and overhanging routes so I can get strong enough for the steep stuff on my next sport trip! (oh dear, that sounds like a lurch to the dark side, thinking about sport goals rather than trad!)
last weeK:
monday - circuits. 6 laps on 6a traversing wall with 5 minute breaks. not good timing really as it left me tired for
tuesday - routes. too tired for much steep stuff, so did technical slabs instead, for about 2 hours.
weds: nowt
thurs: short bouldering session, (2 hours) warmed up then got on to problems I couldnt do or had struggles on last time. repeated the ones I had struggled on but could only get one of the "couldnt do last times". lots of big thuggy moves so was completely boxed friday
friday: nowt
saturday: was fooled by morning snowstorm into leaving gear behind and going for walk instead - but did take shoes and chalkbag so all was not lost, did a couple of hours soloing along the walk. Which oddly enough turned out to be quite good for forcing me to try and route read a bit better, as without mat, rope or book you really want to have worked out what you are getting into before starting up
sunday:nowt . did impression of couch potato.
so going to juggle schedule around this week, leave the circuits for the end of a bouldering session rather than the start of the week, do a bouldering session as the first, then routes, then bouldering/traversing circuits. And routes plan is going to be to focus on steep and overhanging routes so I can get strong enough for the steep stuff on my next sport trip! (oh dear, that sounds like a lurch to the dark side, thinking about sport goals rather than trad!)
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan, pretty decent week for me this week:
Goals: 7c by April 2013
Mon: routes indoors, ticked off the leading ladder 7b first attempt (having tried it last week) then got another 7b I'd tried previously 2nd attempt of the session. Finished with some failed attempts at a 7b+.
Wed: routes indoors, got the 7b+ 4th attempt and had one go of a 7c which feels OK-ish.
Sat: Malham. Not been for ages so good to be back especially as it was in pretty good nick and nice and warm in the sun. Got on New Dawn in my quest to find a 7c to focus on, found it completely nails! Could do the first boulder problem but the rest of it felt crazy sustained. After two plays on that I tried Tremelo twice which, although pretty sustained in the middle 3rd and not easy at the top, felt a more likely project than New Dawn. Unfortunately it's in that section of the crag that gets wet earliest so I'm not sure it'll be the most useful project for winter.
The indoor success felt good this week, hope to continue the push this week and get some decent burns on 7cs indoors and out.
Cheers Dan, pretty decent week for me this week:
Goals: 7c by April 2013
Mon: routes indoors, ticked off the leading ladder 7b first attempt (having tried it last week) then got another 7b I'd tried previously 2nd attempt of the session. Finished with some failed attempts at a 7b+.
Wed: routes indoors, got the 7b+ 4th attempt and had one go of a 7c which feels OK-ish.
Sat: Malham. Not been for ages so good to be back especially as it was in pretty good nick and nice and warm in the sun. Got on New Dawn in my quest to find a 7c to focus on, found it completely nails! Could do the first boulder problem but the rest of it felt crazy sustained. After two plays on that I tried Tremelo twice which, although pretty sustained in the middle 3rd and not easy at the top, felt a more likely project than New Dawn. Unfortunately it's in that section of the crag that gets wet earliest so I'm not sure it'll be the most useful project for winter.
The indoor success felt good this week, hope to continue the push this week and get some decent burns on 7cs indoors and out.
In reply to Eagle River:
Hi, another lack lustre week. The manic depressive excuses are running thin, but I have a real one this week.
No outside climbing, the tuesday session I had middle finger twinges - fine when pulling, tender afterwards. Decided that it was best to leave it rather than push through. So basically no climbing this week.
Dan - yes need to up it for Chorro -
JK - if you're going to be about, let me know - nothing can stop psyche!
This week i'll try the finger out on tues again, though am setting tues/weds so it better be OK. Would like to try a day trip too. I'm thinking its time I got on HOM again and put it to bed.
Cheers, Kev
Hi, another lack lustre week. The manic depressive excuses are running thin, but I have a real one this week.
No outside climbing, the tuesday session I had middle finger twinges - fine when pulling, tender afterwards. Decided that it was best to leave it rather than push through. So basically no climbing this week.
Dan - yes need to up it for Chorro -
JK - if you're going to be about, let me know - nothing can stop psyche!
This week i'll try the finger out on tues again, though am setting tues/weds so it better be OK. Would like to try a day trip too. I'm thinking its time I got on HOM again and put it to bed.
Cheers, Kev
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan, running always feels good!
Goals:
Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3, (weather didn't really allow as much of this as I would have liked.)
Winter V 6, (would have tried VI 7 but not in the right place at the right time.)
Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10%, (16% at present!)
Goals for next spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+
HP - E6 if time / weather doesn't allow before Xmas
Winter - VI 7
Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
Weeks training:
Mon - 1hr20 road cycle, 1hr before eating. 30min finger board & core.
Tues - 30min finger board & core.
Wed - 1hr 30 bouldering at Woodwell, a little damp so stuff felt hard. V3 and vertical V4s fine, struggled with butch V4.
Thursday - 1hr fell run before breakfast, 30min finger board & core.
Friday - 45min bouldering, Sedgwick bridge. warmed up then managed haalf an hour one handed traversing reps before being completely spent.
Saturday - Nothing
Sunday - 1hr 40min 5 x top rope reps on Heavy Metal Kid, (E3 5c, Red wall, Trowbarrow.)
Not a bad week, but need to be careful of too much finger boarding with elbow. Now the clocks have changed mid week bouldering will need to be at the wall, but give me a chance to really wwork on some power.
Don't think we'll have the conditions / time now to RP Blow Out at Trowbarrow before the end of the year, but it will make a good Spring project so I'm not that worried.
Thanks Dan, running always feels good!
Goals:
Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3, (weather didn't really allow as much of this as I would have liked.)
Winter V 6, (would have tried VI 7 but not in the right place at the right time.)
Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10%, (16% at present!)
Goals for next spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+
HP - E6 if time / weather doesn't allow before Xmas
Winter - VI 7
Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
Weeks training:
Mon - 1hr20 road cycle, 1hr before eating. 30min finger board & core.
Tues - 30min finger board & core.
Wed - 1hr 30 bouldering at Woodwell, a little damp so stuff felt hard. V3 and vertical V4s fine, struggled with butch V4.
Thursday - 1hr fell run before breakfast, 30min finger board & core.
Friday - 45min bouldering, Sedgwick bridge. warmed up then managed haalf an hour one handed traversing reps before being completely spent.
Saturday - Nothing
Sunday - 1hr 40min 5 x top rope reps on Heavy Metal Kid, (E3 5c, Red wall, Trowbarrow.)
Not a bad week, but need to be careful of too much finger boarding with elbow. Now the clocks have changed mid week bouldering will need to be at the wall, but give me a chance to really wwork on some power.
Don't think we'll have the conditions / time now to RP Blow Out at Trowbarrow before the end of the year, but it will make a good Spring project so I'm not that worried.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
7a or harder in Chorro
MTG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4
This Weeks Goals:
A few wall sessions - Tickx3
Prepare for Chorro. - Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: The Depot 3 hours. Really good session.
Most of the new blues flashed or done quick.
Flashed some Purples dids some more pretty fast
Some woods too.
T: Rest
F: The Works 4hours. Really good session climbed hard and did well on the new yellows.
S: AM: Ran a 5k. First ever timed run also my first time I have ever. Ran all the way round. Time was 31min 35 secs. I am very happy with that.
PM: Alsmcliff bouldering. A couple of new easy things including a high ball/VS. I worked flying arete but was really cold and got a flash pump that did not go away. I made progress I now consistantly hit the sloper I just need to get set and I will get in the pocket. So close!
Also tried pebble wall and crucifix arete to no avail.
Came very close to doing a new 6A but foot slipped on the last move too tired to complete.
S: Depot 3 hours. Loads of new ticks finishing stuff from wednesday.
Next Weeks goals:
Rest.
Fly to Spain
Go forth and crush!!!!
Meet Biscuit sunday
Easy milage saturday after arriving.
So happy to be able to do a 5k with no training or even any running for well over a year.
Not much ticked at almscliff but loads of progress. Awesome day.
> Grubes – Not a bad week. Looking forward to the Foundry myself today, haven’t been in ages.
STG (end of Nov): 7a or harder in Chorro
MTG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4
This Weeks Goals:
A few wall sessions - Tickx3
Prepare for Chorro. - Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: The Depot 3 hours. Really good session.
Most of the new blues flashed or done quick.
Flashed some Purples dids some more pretty fast
Some woods too.
T: Rest
F: The Works 4hours. Really good session climbed hard and did well on the new yellows.
S: AM: Ran a 5k. First ever timed run also my first time I have ever. Ran all the way round. Time was 31min 35 secs. I am very happy with that.
PM: Alsmcliff bouldering. A couple of new easy things including a high ball/VS. I worked flying arete but was really cold and got a flash pump that did not go away. I made progress I now consistantly hit the sloper I just need to get set and I will get in the pocket. So close!
Also tried pebble wall and crucifix arete to no avail.
Came very close to doing a new 6A but foot slipped on the last move too tired to complete.
S: Depot 3 hours. Loads of new ticks finishing stuff from wednesday.
Next Weeks goals:
Rest.
Fly to Spain
Go forth and crush!!!!
Meet Biscuit sunday
Easy milage saturday after arriving.
So happy to be able to do a 5k with no training or even any running for well over a year.
Not much ticked at almscliff but loads of progress. Awesome day.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
how was foundry?
how was foundry?
In reply to Si dH:
Epic Week Si nice!
Epic Week Si nice!
In reply to Eagle River:
Sounds like a good day at malham.
Was tremelo dry? don't tell moose hw is desperate to finish it.
Sounds like a good day at malham.
Was tremelo dry? don't tell moose hw is desperate to finish it.
In reply to grubes:
I text moose today and he said not to tell him how it was!
As this is a public forum I'll leave it at that.....
I text moose today and he said not to tell him how it was!
As this is a public forum I'll leave it at that.....
In reply to Eagle River:
Yea randomly saw him at depot today.
He's not given up hope on uk lime yet .. I have
Yea randomly saw him at depot today.
He's not given up hope on uk lime yet .. I have
In reply to grubes:
I saw that you had and thought it was a bit of a shame as you can get brilliant conditions at Malham over winter. Just need a couple of dry weeks (I know, ridiculous) and some sunshine, it was brilliant on Sat.
However, living in Yorkshire you've got some brilliant grit to get on so I don't blame you for switching focus.
Let me know when you're next at almscliff as I might pop over because I've not been for ages. Used to go all the time so have a sequence for most of the problems up to V7.
I saw that you had and thought it was a bit of a shame as you can get brilliant conditions at Malham over winter. Just need a couple of dry weeks (I know, ridiculous) and some sunshine, it was brilliant on Sat.
However, living in Yorkshire you've got some brilliant grit to get on so I don't blame you for switching focus.
Let me know when you're next at almscliff as I might pop over because I've not been for ages. Used to go all the time so have a sequence for most of the problems up to V7.
In reply to grubes:
Thanks Grubes! Fuelled by lots of Mythos, lots of food and the knowledge that there were so many new 3* routes (and crags) to go to every day
> (In reply to Si dH)
> Epic Week Si nice!
> Epic Week Si nice!
Thanks Grubes! Fuelled by lots of Mythos, lots of food and the knowledge that there were so many new 3* routes (and crags) to go to every day
In reply to Eagle River:
It's more I don't want to get stuck into a project then not get back to it months at a time. Will get back on it after chorro.
Now just need to find the money for chorro at Christmas
It's more I don't want to get stuck into a project then not get back to it months at a time. Will get back on it after chorro.
Now just need to find the money for chorro at Christmas
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick
MTG:
Sub 40 min 10km
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
(High Peak Marathon?)
M - nothing (too busy getting sorted to work away).
T - 4.22m treadmill, 1.4% (working away).
W - working away.
T - working away.
F - nothing.
S - 8.52m trail/road run, 312ft.
S - 7.46m road run, 58ft.
Not a good week due to working away.
Wanted to get more done at the weekend but working away midweek just means theres more to sort at the weekend.
Thanks Dan.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick
MTG:
Sub 40 min 10km
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
(High Peak Marathon?)
M - nothing (too busy getting sorted to work away).
T - 4.22m treadmill, 1.4% (working away).
W - working away.
T - working away.
F - nothing.
S - 8.52m trail/road run, 312ft.
S - 7.46m road run, 58ft.
Not a good week due to working away.
Wanted to get more done at the weekend but working away midweek just means theres more to sort at the weekend.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG: Book a skip so I can sort the climbing room.
MTG: Either a PB on VIR @ homeStockport
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6(2), 8*V5(6) (by May 2013).
Redpoint sport 7b (by June 2013)
8 e3s by end of 2013 (ground up is fine)
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 12
Focus: Strength(4/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.
Mon: Holiday.
Tue: Holiday.
Wed: Stockport (general bouldering).
Thu: Lazy Thursday.
Fri: Works (6a -6c crircuit. ~23 problems).
Sat: Weights. Core. Follower by 13 hour night shift.
Sun: Too tired to care.
Your right Dan, poor on volume last week & poor on volume this week.
Was knackered on Wednesday & skipped Thursday because I was feeling wiped out from the holiday (a holiday with lots of kids under 3 is pretty knackering). My work has gone stupid and decided to implement 24x7 shifts to get a programme of work finished on time where you get to do 12 hour shifts (through the night) as a bonus on top of your mon-fri 50 hour week. Any guesses who I work for? Until work calms down I don't expect volume to improve as my head will probably be too exhausted to care. As long as I keep my hand in & don't totally give up on training I'll be happy.
Still not hired a skip (my climbing room floods remember). I have the numbers & will order something for a week on Saturday.
STG: Book a skip so I can sort the climbing room.
MTG: Either a PB on VIR @ homeStockport
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6(2), 8*V5(6) (by May 2013).
Redpoint sport 7b (by June 2013)
8 e3s by end of 2013 (ground up is fine)
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 12
Focus: Strength(4/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.
Mon: Holiday.
Tue: Holiday.
Wed: Stockport (general bouldering).
Thu: Lazy Thursday.
Fri: Works (6a -6c crircuit. ~23 problems).
Sat: Weights. Core. Follower by 13 hour night shift.
Sun: Too tired to care.
Your right Dan, poor on volume last week & poor on volume this week.
Was knackered on Wednesday & skipped Thursday because I was feeling wiped out from the holiday (a holiday with lots of kids under 3 is pretty knackering). My work has gone stupid and decided to implement 24x7 shifts to get a programme of work finished on time where you get to do 12 hour shifts (through the night) as a bonus on top of your mon-fri 50 hour week. Any guesses who I work for? Until work calms down I don't expect volume to improve as my head will probably be too exhausted to care. As long as I keep my hand in & don't totally give up on training I'll be happy.
Still not hired a skip (my climbing room floods remember). I have the numbers & will order something for a week on Saturday.
In reply to leon:
Looks like we keep going to the works at the same time.
Did you try the new yellows? Really enjoyed that set
Looks like we keep going to the works at the same time.
Did you try the new yellows? Really enjoyed that set
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Daniel - really do appreciate all the time it must take to sort this. Hadn't realised you were an instructor either.
Si, Jimmy - your trips sound amazing! Some of the psyche has rubbed off...
First indoor V3! Seconded an indoor F6b today as well... I'm proper happy!
Weight 80.2kg
Bodyfat 24.9%
STG - That V3 - DONE!
MTG - Lead 6a by xmas.
LTG - Lead 6b by summer.
M - Utterly knackered but bouldering session. Still struggling with the footwork on the V3 when Tom offers a suggestion. Have on go and it felt okay but too pooped to pursue it.
T - Worked 14hrs. Nowt.
W - Tried Tom's way, felt good and worked but then walked away and did other stuff. Head wasn't in the right place as my daughter was having tests in hospital - she rang at 8.45pm to say she was fine but needed an op. Happy days, so shot up the overhanging V2, thenpottered home.
T - Rest. Ached all week, been trying hard and I could feel it.
F - Psyched myself up - warmed up and then after maybe 6/7 goes I had the V3. Tried another, steeper one after that looks doable and held a hold on a V8... yes it felt silly hard but so did that V3 a month ago. I can dream.
S - Visiting family and just chilled in the evening.
S - 5 V0s to warm up, then top roped a 4, seconded a slab 5+ cleanly (Pinnacle slabs are sandbags, courtesy of Alex Fry) and then seconded a 6b on the Comp Wall that is overhanging all the way. 3 rests as got pumped but all the moves felt comfy, even the unclipping which is usually an issue. Then in the boulder room for a couple of hours just trying stuff.
Chuffed to bits with the V3 - there's a link in my profile to my blog if anyone fancies a read. Not so much happy with doing it but more how I went about it, plus being tidy and neat as well.
The 6b was a surprise, it was just lack of stamina (?) that got to me and I'm pretty sure I could have led it with the same three rests. So I need to work on being fit enough for the height, clip a few easier routes and maybe the LTG won't take as long as I thought!
Utterly psyched... I need to think about goals really. You lot have such high ones, it's amazeballs really but this year I've ran a 69 mile Ultra, done an adventure race, bouldered V3 indoor and out - anything seems possible at the moment and I don't want to sell myself short.
Cheers everyone! There's such a positive mood engendered on this thread - it's making progress easier.
Si, Jimmy - your trips sound amazing! Some of the psyche has rubbed off...
First indoor V3! Seconded an indoor F6b today as well... I'm proper happy!
Weight 80.2kg
Bodyfat 24.9%
STG - That V3 - DONE!
MTG - Lead 6a by xmas.
LTG - Lead 6b by summer.
M - Utterly knackered but bouldering session. Still struggling with the footwork on the V3 when Tom offers a suggestion. Have on go and it felt okay but too pooped to pursue it.
T - Worked 14hrs. Nowt.
W - Tried Tom's way, felt good and worked but then walked away and did other stuff. Head wasn't in the right place as my daughter was having tests in hospital - she rang at 8.45pm to say she was fine but needed an op. Happy days, so shot up the overhanging V2, thenpottered home.
T - Rest. Ached all week, been trying hard and I could feel it.
F - Psyched myself up - warmed up and then after maybe 6/7 goes I had the V3. Tried another, steeper one after that looks doable and held a hold on a V8... yes it felt silly hard but so did that V3 a month ago. I can dream.
S - Visiting family and just chilled in the evening.
S - 5 V0s to warm up, then top roped a 4, seconded a slab 5+ cleanly (Pinnacle slabs are sandbags, courtesy of Alex Fry) and then seconded a 6b on the Comp Wall that is overhanging all the way. 3 rests as got pumped but all the moves felt comfy, even the unclipping which is usually an issue. Then in the boulder room for a couple of hours just trying stuff.
Chuffed to bits with the V3 - there's a link in my profile to my blog if anyone fancies a read. Not so much happy with doing it but more how I went about it, plus being tidy and neat as well.
The 6b was a surprise, it was just lack of stamina (?) that got to me and I'm pretty sure I could have led it with the same three rests. So I need to work on being fit enough for the height, clip a few easier routes and maybe the LTG won't take as long as I thought!
Utterly psyched... I need to think about goals really. You lot have such high ones, it's amazeballs really but this year I've ran a 69 mile Ultra, done an adventure race, bouldered V3 indoor and out - anything seems possible at the moment and I don't want to sell myself short.
Cheers everyone! There's such a positive mood engendered on this thread - it's making progress easier.
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks for doing fit club Dan
Si & JimmyKay - sounds like you both had awesome trips! Agree with you Jimmy about just having some time to think about nothing else than climbing and living....it does make the transition back to real life harder though - just get another trip booked! Si - good work on DNA! Sounds like you were unlucky on some of the other 7as, but a good lot of ticks anyway.
Eagle River - Malham was dry??? Nooooo! Was Something Stupid dry? And Space Race? I may be slightly gutted if so! What's the weather been like today?
M: Ran home - about 7/7.5 miles - had to stop and stretch ITBs a couple of times, but now I know that they're the problem, means I can do the stretches after so not too stiff the next day.
T: Routes session at the Reach - about 11, from 5-6c+. Got a couple of tricky 6bs onsight, and a 6c+ I'd had one go on before first go so was quite pleased. Then got spanked on a 6c which felt hard. Did a few pressups and a bit of core to finish but was so tired, I couldn't do much.
W: Rest, felt totally knackered
T: Gym session - got some cheap vouchers as feeling like I need to do some muscle balancing/all over weights. Unfortunately got away from work later than planned and poor nutrition which didn't help session - also still feeling generally tired and achey from Tues session. Did some weights, and a bit of core but was quite busy so couldn't do everything planned.
F: Rest
S: Headed down to Swanage for the weekend - went to Winspit, which was a very popular location! Pretty busy so couldn't get on everything we wanted but good day nonetheless. Warmed up on Stone Mason and Unseen Ripples of the Pebble (both 6a+) - got a bit scared on the latter and messed it up a bit by not resting, but struggled up fighting pump. Then managed to flash Pump me Tenderly (6c+) with perfect beta from Hazel - first 6c+ flash! But Hazel def takes some of the credit for that... We were all wanting to get on Avenging the Halsewell, so decided to have a go at a 7a to ease the queuing! Got on Peppercorn Rate and put the bolts in with a combination of bolt to bolting and clipstick. Moves felt pretty hard and scarily runout in places. Came down then had a top rope go which felt better - managed all the moves, and worked out some links which still felt hard, but doable... Stripped route for the day, then had a go on Avenging the Halsewell but was really knackered and felt nails so couldn't do all the moves.
S: Having psyched myself up overnight to get back on Peppercorn Rate, stepped outside to find it was raining Didn't look like easing up anything soon, so we decided to bail and headed back to London, popping in at the new White Spider wall on the way back. Was feeling totally battered from Saturday's efforts, so took it fairly easy, but managed 5 routes and about 20 boulder problems from v0-5.
Had a great day Saturday, but my body is feeling pretty beaten up at the moment. Both elbows are feeeling really tweaky (sharp pain in my left when trying to do a girly press-up) and my left wrist was hurting before Sat and climbing Sat made it worse so bit concerned its going to pose a problem again. Currently got some nice hot pads on the shoulders to try and ease the muscles there! Am away on a non-climbing long weekend next weekend, so would quite like to get a session in before I go, but may sack it off if still feeling knackered. Think I probably need to make sure I do more injury-prevention exercises, esp for my neck/elbows, but really struggle to find the time...
Si & JimmyKay - sounds like you both had awesome trips! Agree with you Jimmy about just having some time to think about nothing else than climbing and living....it does make the transition back to real life harder though - just get another trip booked! Si - good work on DNA! Sounds like you were unlucky on some of the other 7as, but a good lot of ticks anyway.
Eagle River - Malham was dry??? Nooooo! Was Something Stupid dry? And Space Race? I may be slightly gutted if so! What's the weather been like today?
M: Ran home - about 7/7.5 miles - had to stop and stretch ITBs a couple of times, but now I know that they're the problem, means I can do the stretches after so not too stiff the next day.
T: Routes session at the Reach - about 11, from 5-6c+. Got a couple of tricky 6bs onsight, and a 6c+ I'd had one go on before first go so was quite pleased. Then got spanked on a 6c which felt hard. Did a few pressups and a bit of core to finish but was so tired, I couldn't do much.
W: Rest, felt totally knackered
T: Gym session - got some cheap vouchers as feeling like I need to do some muscle balancing/all over weights. Unfortunately got away from work later than planned and poor nutrition which didn't help session - also still feeling generally tired and achey from Tues session. Did some weights, and a bit of core but was quite busy so couldn't do everything planned.
F: Rest
S: Headed down to Swanage for the weekend - went to Winspit, which was a very popular location! Pretty busy so couldn't get on everything we wanted but good day nonetheless. Warmed up on Stone Mason and Unseen Ripples of the Pebble (both 6a+) - got a bit scared on the latter and messed it up a bit by not resting, but struggled up fighting pump. Then managed to flash Pump me Tenderly (6c+) with perfect beta from Hazel - first 6c+ flash! But Hazel def takes some of the credit for that... We were all wanting to get on Avenging the Halsewell, so decided to have a go at a 7a to ease the queuing! Got on Peppercorn Rate and put the bolts in with a combination of bolt to bolting and clipstick. Moves felt pretty hard and scarily runout in places. Came down then had a top rope go which felt better - managed all the moves, and worked out some links which still felt hard, but doable... Stripped route for the day, then had a go on Avenging the Halsewell but was really knackered and felt nails so couldn't do all the moves.
S: Having psyched myself up overnight to get back on Peppercorn Rate, stepped outside to find it was raining Didn't look like easing up anything soon, so we decided to bail and headed back to London, popping in at the new White Spider wall on the way back. Was feeling totally battered from Saturday's efforts, so took it fairly easy, but managed 5 routes and about 20 boulder problems from v0-5.
Had a great day Saturday, but my body is feeling pretty beaten up at the moment. Both elbows are feeeling really tweaky (sharp pain in my left when trying to do a girly press-up) and my left wrist was hurting before Sat and climbing Sat made it worse so bit concerned its going to pose a problem again. Currently got some nice hot pads on the shoulders to try and ease the muscles there! Am away on a non-climbing long weekend next weekend, so would quite like to get a session in before I go, but may sack it off if still feeling knackered. Think I probably need to make sure I do more injury-prevention exercises, esp for my neck/elbows, but really struggle to find the time...
In reply to grubes:
All right thanks. It's always a bit frustrating instructing, when you still want to try and time an effective warm up and a decent climb around what the group is doing. I fell reaching the lip of a steep 7b jug fest, then dogged a lovely tufa 7b+, but got in a strop at misreading the sequence, getting pumped, catching my ankle in the rope, knocking into climbers on adjacent routes and receiving unhelpful anti-beta from a well meaning friend. Needed to take a chill pill after!
Well done on the 5k, a good distance. I used to time myself all the time, but then I stopped wearing a watch, probably due to fear of failure. I like the freedom of not wearing one, but if you have the discipline it's probably a good tool to improve.
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> how was foundry?
> how was foundry?
All right thanks. It's always a bit frustrating instructing, when you still want to try and time an effective warm up and a decent climb around what the group is doing. I fell reaching the lip of a steep 7b jug fest, then dogged a lovely tufa 7b+, but got in a strop at misreading the sequence, getting pumped, catching my ankle in the rope, knocking into climbers on adjacent routes and receiving unhelpful anti-beta from a well meaning friend. Needed to take a chill pill after!
Well done on the 5k, a good distance. I used to time myself all the time, but then I stopped wearing a watch, probably due to fear of failure. I like the freedom of not wearing one, but if you have the discipline it's probably a good tool to improve.
In reply to mrchewy:
I enjoyed reading your blog post from yesterday. Well done on the V3, and apparently training specifically for it. I'm sure more V3s will come sooner now.
I've gone up the military instructing quals, so I don't have SPA or MIA but I get to do the same stuff (multi pitch and teach leading) with military guys. Most of the time this is just my Uni mates who are also bursars, which makes for a chilled weekend under the banner of "Adventurous Training". It's also valuable experience for my future career.
I enjoyed reading your blog post from yesterday. Well done on the V3, and apparently training specifically for it. I'm sure more V3s will come sooner now.
I've gone up the military instructing quals, so I don't have SPA or MIA but I get to do the same stuff (multi pitch and teach leading) with military guys. Most of the time this is just my Uni mates who are also bursars, which makes for a chilled weekend under the banner of "Adventurous Training". It's also valuable experience for my future career.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan!
This week has been a bit of a write off, in that I've been ill for most of it. It was only the cold/flu that was going round but I was floored. Still I did manage to get to the wall today, and it was a real treat to start a session without any sore bits!
M: gym - lower body push - squatted > bodyweight for the first time in months
Tuesday - Saturday: ill
Su: climbing at the Castle; meant to be practising leading in advance of going to Costa Blanca in a fortnight but partner forgot the rope! Still had a good session on the top ropes though - and got up my first 6c
Plan for this week: don't get ill and climb loads.
Thanks Dan!
This week has been a bit of a write off, in that I've been ill for most of it. It was only the cold/flu that was going round but I was floored. Still I did manage to get to the wall today, and it was a real treat to start a session without any sore bits!
M: gym - lower body push - squatted > bodyweight for the first time in months
Tuesday - Saturday: ill
Su: climbing at the Castle; meant to be practising leading in advance of going to Costa Blanca in a fortnight but partner forgot the rope! Still had a good session on the top ropes though - and got up my first 6c
Plan for this week: don't get ill and climb loads.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers dan. Also congrats to Si, Ali and anyone else I've temporarily forgotten who has been out crushing...
Indoor/training priorities
<STG> - remainder of 2012
<MTG> - 2012 <DONE>
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M: TCA. Good session, as far as I can remember. I know I ticked off a few more problems, and I know I hit 1-3-5.5 twice leading right and 1-3-5 once, and 1-3-5 three times leading left. Also I think I onsighted a 6b/c circuit and fell off the last move of another 6c circuit.
T: Rest, I think
W: Warehouse. Tried to make my ancap circuit harder but didn't get on too well with it, too many failures. I think the screaming kids didn't help! Did some aerocap, few good laps in. Got on the fingerboard to console myself for the disappointing ancap, managed a YYFY which I'm taking despite the fact it's a wall beastmaker so therefore soft for the grade. Anyway, I managed some offset hangs - one hand using the 2-finger slopy pockets on the bottom rung and one hand on the better 2 finger pockets (middle 2 obviously). Also 3 finger openhanded on the rails with one hand and the other hand on said slopy pockets. First time I've been able to use them with a small other hand hold, pleased with that.
T: Cheddar. Retro-redpointed Still Waters Run Deep, then eventually bailed on the mist, drizzle and rubbish conditions and went to TCA where I tried hard and managed some ok stuff.
F: Brean. Freezing! Did the 6c to warm up then gave up. Too cold by half...
S: Gogarth. Wendigo - another south stack trade route in the bag. Led the first pitch and the last pitch, albeit a longer last pitch than the description as my partner ran out of medium and large gear completely about 8m shy of the described belay... Steady ledge shuffling, didn't feel as sketchy as the other routes I've done there before, but nevertheless still felt like a big day out.
S: Rain. Went for a walk round some of the Clwyd crags, keen to go back to Craig Arthur in better weather. Short fingerboard session when I got home.
Nt a bad week given conditions. Pleased with the fingerboard progress, and with Wendigo, and with still getting some other stuff done - cant expect much more given current weather!
Andy
Cheers dan. Also congrats to Si, Ali and anyone else I've temporarily forgotten who has been out crushing...
Indoor/training priorities
- Strength/aerocap/ancap phase
- Rolling average weight/body fat - ?
<STG> - remainder of 2012
- Prepare for Xmas trip
- Keep on plugging with the E3s
- Tick some more of the 8a pyramid (currently completed 4/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
- Try to do all moves and some key links on RHM (all moves done; links of ground to undercut, hold after undercut (clip in already) to lip, lip to chains)
<MTG> - 2012 <DONE>
- Complete 7c+ pyramid (currently completed 11/8 x 7b, 4/4 x 7b+, 3/2 x 7c, 1/1 x 7c+) <DONE>
- 20 x 7as/E2s or above in good style [completed: 5x 7a onsight, 1x 7a+ flash, 1x 7a+ onsight, 10 x E2 onsight, 1 x E2 flash-ish, 5 x E3 onsight, 1 x E3 ground-up] <DONE>
- 7a+ onsight <DONE>
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: TCA. Good session, as far as I can remember. I know I ticked off a few more problems, and I know I hit 1-3-5.5 twice leading right and 1-3-5 once, and 1-3-5 three times leading left. Also I think I onsighted a 6b/c circuit and fell off the last move of another 6c circuit.
T: Rest, I think
W: Warehouse. Tried to make my ancap circuit harder but didn't get on too well with it, too many failures. I think the screaming kids didn't help! Did some aerocap, few good laps in. Got on the fingerboard to console myself for the disappointing ancap, managed a YYFY which I'm taking despite the fact it's a wall beastmaker so therefore soft for the grade. Anyway, I managed some offset hangs - one hand using the 2-finger slopy pockets on the bottom rung and one hand on the better 2 finger pockets (middle 2 obviously). Also 3 finger openhanded on the rails with one hand and the other hand on said slopy pockets. First time I've been able to use them with a small other hand hold, pleased with that.
T: Cheddar. Retro-redpointed Still Waters Run Deep, then eventually bailed on the mist, drizzle and rubbish conditions and went to TCA where I tried hard and managed some ok stuff.
F: Brean. Freezing! Did the 6c to warm up then gave up. Too cold by half...
S: Gogarth. Wendigo - another south stack trade route in the bag. Led the first pitch and the last pitch, albeit a longer last pitch than the description as my partner ran out of medium and large gear completely about 8m shy of the described belay... Steady ledge shuffling, didn't feel as sketchy as the other routes I've done there before, but nevertheless still felt like a big day out.
S: Rain. Went for a walk round some of the Clwyd crags, keen to go back to Craig Arthur in better weather. Short fingerboard session when I got home.
Nt a bad week given conditions. Pleased with the fingerboard progress, and with Wendigo, and with still getting some other stuff done - cant expect much more given current weather!
Andy
AJM: Plenty of crag effort given the conditions, well done! Is brean suffering from seepage? and gogarth? I may get there end of november.
Ali: Winspit is funny, gives you a gift then takes it all away, repeatedly. Avenging TH - I so nearly flashed, failed at the last tough move, took many mnore tries to actually get clean after, it is a great route to conquer. The 7a to the right - order of the free marblers is SO onsightable, just keep going! Get Nick or hazel to put the clips in then tick it! Did they try any of the cave stuff on the sea front bit? I fancy some of it.
K
Ali: Winspit is funny, gives you a gift then takes it all away, repeatedly. Avenging TH - I so nearly flashed, failed at the last tough move, took many mnore tries to actually get clean after, it is a great route to conquer. The 7a to the right - order of the free marblers is SO onsightable, just keep going! Get Nick or hazel to put the clips in then tick it! Did they try any of the cave stuff on the sea front bit? I fancy some of it.
K
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan - it's the first time since I broke my wrist five years ago, that I don't have to make excuses for it. Won't ever have all the movement back, less than half of my left hand has but that that V3 had moves that meant I had to push through the wrist pain and I reckon I've gained about another 15deg of movement I can actually use.
Too many people ignore how their CV will look in the future - good to see you not making that mistake. And if you and your mates can blag some days out... all the better!
Too many people ignore how their CV will look in the future - good to see you not making that mistake. And if you and your mates can blag some days out... all the better!
In reply to Kevster:
Cheers - persistence seemed to be key...
Brean looked mainly ok yeah. The stuff down on the beach was dry, the start of storm warning was dry, most of black snake moan looked dry (I was under instructions to check!) save for a bit at the top perhaps.
Gogarth looked ok - red wall was pretty much in good nick, and I know there were people out on Gogarth the route on main cliff and out in wen zawn as well.
Avenging the halsewell is an ace route, really must get back on it next I'm ever down there...
Cheers - persistence seemed to be key...
Brean looked mainly ok yeah. The stuff down on the beach was dry, the start of storm warning was dry, most of black snake moan looked dry (I was under instructions to check!) save for a bit at the top perhaps.
Gogarth looked ok - red wall was pretty much in good nick, and I know there were people out on Gogarth the route on main cliff and out in wen zawn as well.
Avenging the halsewell is an ace route, really must get back on it next I'm ever down there...
In reply to Daniel Heath:
I did not actually wear a watch I entered this http://www.parkrun.org.uk/huddersfield/
I did not even know it existed until my friend who had just moved here told me about it.
I would like to get sub 30 and think it would be possible without too much effort or focus. Maybe a watch for pace setting.
> (In reply to grubes)
> [...]
> Well done on the 5k, a good distance. I used to time myself all the time, but then I stopped wearing a watch, probably due to fear of failure. I like the freedom of not wearing one, but if you have the discipline it's probably a good tool to improve.
> [...]
> Well done on the 5k, a good distance. I used to time myself all the time, but then I stopped wearing a watch, probably due to fear of failure. I like the freedom of not wearing one, but if you have the discipline it's probably a good tool to improve.
I did not actually wear a watch I entered this http://www.parkrun.org.uk/huddersfield/
I did not even know it existed until my friend who had just moved here told me about it.
I would like to get sub 30 and think it would be possible without too much effort or focus. Maybe a watch for pace setting.
In reply to grubes:
m: 10.5 mile road run
t: hill reps. 9 miles 500m ascent
w: lunch: 5 miles. pm: 5 miles trail run
t: lunch around the lake 5 mile trail run. pm: 3 miles in plymouth
f: 3 mile easy on dartmoor
s; OMM elite Howgills. Day one. I guess 25 miles 3000+ metres of ascent
s OMM elite Howgills. Day two. I guess 20 miles 2500+ metres of ascent
11th in the end, happy with that, havent ran much on the fells but felt strong,.. still cold today..
m: 10.5 mile road run
t: hill reps. 9 miles 500m ascent
w: lunch: 5 miles. pm: 5 miles trail run
t: lunch around the lake 5 mile trail run. pm: 3 miles in plymouth
f: 3 mile easy on dartmoor
s; OMM elite Howgills. Day one. I guess 25 miles 3000+ metres of ascent
s OMM elite Howgills. Day two. I guess 20 miles 2500+ metres of ascent
11th in the end, happy with that, havent ran much on the fells but felt strong,.. still cold today..
In reply to Daniel Heath: Not a bad week for me
M- 50min run
Bouldering, Biscuit. Mainly blues
T- Bouldering, Biscuit. Finished most blues, stopped a bit early due to finger strain
W- 60min MTB, Bromley-Home
T- 90 min cycle to work
F-
S- Swanage, Boulder Ruckle, Prudence & Dublin Packet, both HVS 4c-5b, lead 1st pitches.
S- 40min run to and from climbing
Bouldering, Biscuit. Endurance inc. 6a+ & 6b+ circuits
M- 50min run
Bouldering, Biscuit. Mainly blues
T- Bouldering, Biscuit. Finished most blues, stopped a bit early due to finger strain
W- 60min MTB, Bromley-Home
T- 90 min cycle to work
F-
S- Swanage, Boulder Ruckle, Prudence & Dublin Packet, both HVS 4c-5b, lead 1st pitches.
S- 40min run to and from climbing
Bouldering, Biscuit. Endurance inc. 6a+ & 6b+ circuits
Hi all
Returning to fit club after a few weeks off.
First day back climbing after the glandular fever, did some WW bouldering.
Did a number of the V1-V3 problems (feeling fat & heavy). Managed to flash a V4/V5 on the slab. Felt no harder than V3 but happy with that, obviously some vestiges of technique have remained!
More importantly felt fine after so hopefully the sickness is defeated (fingers crossed). Hoping to get to the wall a few times this week and maybe even outdoors on Sunday if the weather is OK.
Returning to fit club after a few weeks off.
First day back climbing after the glandular fever, did some WW bouldering.
Did a number of the V1-V3 problems (feeling fat & heavy). Managed to flash a V4/V5 on the slab. Felt no harder than V3 but happy with that, obviously some vestiges of technique have remained!
More importantly felt fine after so hopefully the sickness is defeated (fingers crossed). Hoping to get to the wall a few times this week and maybe even outdoors on Sunday if the weather is OK.
By the way has anyone on fit club ever tried Cocteau Phenomena in Portland?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13278
saw someone on it last year and thought it looked great. Already planning what summer project the winter training should be for!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13278
saw someone on it last year and thought it looked great. Already planning what summer project the winter training should be for!
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks as always Dan. Went ok, we were much slower than I'd hoped, but my knee flared up and my mate pulled a muscle in his thigh.
Thanks as always Dan.
Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (no progress)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (no progress)
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 12st 2lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs (not weighed)
M - F - Rest
S - 12 miles - 6:39 - 126th in Cat D
S - 12 miles - 6:21 - 117th in Cat D
121 13:01:27 577 Matthew Moore 6:39:55 (126)
Daniel Morgan 6:21:32 (117)
While the OMM didn't go quite as well as I'd hoped as I'd really been hoping to be around 5 hours, for a first crack, I'm quite happy with it. My knee flared up (ITBS) and my mate pulled a muscle in his thigh, which slowed us down to a walk for all of Sunday. We stuffed up the nav on Saturday (missed CP5, lost 20 mins doubling back for it and spend 45 mins finding CP8). Got a decent nights sleep I reckon, from about 2000 to about 0300, then dozing from then till about 0600. Kit wise it was fine, no worries there. Could have lost a bit of weight, but it wasn't too heavy and we had just about the right amount of food and gas.
Going to have to start back on stretches and the like. Going to spend this evening at the gym in the sauna/jacuzzi/steam room.
Ian - Didn't realise you were doing the OMM. Would have made a bit of effort to find you otherwise, would be nice to meet another fitclubber! 11th in Elite? I saw one of the elite maps for the 2nd day, it looked pretty nuts. Well done.
Thanks as always Dan. Went ok, we were much slower than I'd hoped, but my knee flared up and my mate pulled a muscle in his thigh.
Thanks as always Dan.
Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (no progress)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (no progress)
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 12st 2lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs (not weighed)
M - F - Rest
S - 12 miles - 6:39 - 126th in Cat D
S - 12 miles - 6:21 - 117th in Cat D
121 13:01:27 577 Matthew Moore 6:39:55 (126)
Daniel Morgan 6:21:32 (117)
While the OMM didn't go quite as well as I'd hoped as I'd really been hoping to be around 5 hours, for a first crack, I'm quite happy with it. My knee flared up (ITBS) and my mate pulled a muscle in his thigh, which slowed us down to a walk for all of Sunday. We stuffed up the nav on Saturday (missed CP5, lost 20 mins doubling back for it and spend 45 mins finding CP8). Got a decent nights sleep I reckon, from about 2000 to about 0300, then dozing from then till about 0600. Kit wise it was fine, no worries there. Could have lost a bit of weight, but it wasn't too heavy and we had just about the right amount of food and gas.
Going to have to start back on stretches and the like. Going to spend this evening at the gym in the sauna/jacuzzi/steam room.
Ian - Didn't realise you were doing the OMM. Would have made a bit of effort to find you otherwise, would be nice to meet another fitclubber! 11th in Elite? I saw one of the elite maps for the 2nd day, it looked pretty nuts. Well done.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham
MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT
Assessment of STG: end Oct 2012
- Get over re-current A2 injury in right index finger - some progress
- Elbow eccentric exercises and stretches everyday - could do better
- Dumpster Divers - Tick. 3rd Ascent.
- Prow in 1 long pitch (Raven Tor) - 2 trips, best effort fell from lip after 30m+ of climbing. Need to extend/skip clips to reduce drag
- Training link: Melancopout (LPT) - didn't get back to LPT at all
New STG for Nov 2012 - recovery phase whilst away in Oz
- Get over re-current A2 injury in right index finger - Massage everyday on trip
- Elbow eccentric exercises
- Lower body stretches
- Don't get too fat; currently 76.7kg, BF 7.0% on "athlete" setting
M (22nd Oct) – Short dynamic core session after work
T – Routes at Awful Walls. Too much bouldering in warm-up and slow pace on-sighting newly set routes = very pumped!
W - Gym session. Surprised myself doing almost full 1-armer (75degree to fully closed) after a student tried explaining how they were a bio-mechanical impossibility! DL 50kg 10repsx2. B-curls, elbow eccentrics, kettlebells. 2k row 7min 50s; much slower after 2wk break from the gym.
T - Rest. Minor DOMS
F - Rest.
S – Dinbren; partner not psyched for climbing in the cold despite sun being out >50% time. Quick 7c and 7b ticks. Short and complicated beta makes it hard to OS at Dinbren! Then Tremeirchion on way home. V5/6 OS. Anyone know the beta for 36 Chambers? Couldn't move off slopey ramp feature.
S - Lie-in, then cave once Dpylo confirmed it was dry. New V10 tick of Cave life from wobbly block. Rockattrocity started feeling doable too. All moves in isolation and some short links. 3x20 sit-ups in double kneebar; can feel that this morning!
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham
MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT
Assessment of STG: end Oct 2012
- Get over re-current A2 injury in right index finger - some progress
- Elbow eccentric exercises and stretches everyday - could do better
- Dumpster Divers - Tick. 3rd Ascent.
- Prow in 1 long pitch (Raven Tor) - 2 trips, best effort fell from lip after 30m+ of climbing. Need to extend/skip clips to reduce drag
- Training link: Melancopout (LPT) - didn't get back to LPT at all
New STG for Nov 2012 - recovery phase whilst away in Oz
- Get over re-current A2 injury in right index finger - Massage everyday on trip
- Elbow eccentric exercises
- Lower body stretches
- Don't get too fat; currently 76.7kg, BF 7.0% on "athlete" setting
M (22nd Oct) – Short dynamic core session after work
T – Routes at Awful Walls. Too much bouldering in warm-up and slow pace on-sighting newly set routes = very pumped!
W - Gym session. Surprised myself doing almost full 1-armer (75degree to fully closed) after a student tried explaining how they were a bio-mechanical impossibility! DL 50kg 10repsx2. B-curls, elbow eccentrics, kettlebells. 2k row 7min 50s; much slower after 2wk break from the gym.
T - Rest. Minor DOMS
F - Rest.
S – Dinbren; partner not psyched for climbing in the cold despite sun being out >50% time. Quick 7c and 7b ticks. Short and complicated beta makes it hard to OS at Dinbren! Then Tremeirchion on way home. V5/6 OS. Anyone know the beta for 36 Chambers? Couldn't move off slopey ramp feature.
S - Lie-in, then cave once Dpylo confirmed it was dry. New V10 tick of Cave life from wobbly block. Rockattrocity started feeling doable too. All moves in isolation and some short links. 3x20 sit-ups in double kneebar; can feel that this morning!
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Daniel.
Nothing this week. Sore neck earlier in week so missed swimming lesson. Just too busy the rest of the time (faffing about selling car/tent/furniture/tools etc as well as working and being generally lazy...)
Nothing this week. Sore neck earlier in week so missed swimming lesson. Just too busy the rest of the time (faffing about selling car/tent/furniture/tools etc as well as working and being generally lazy...)
In reply to Daniel Heath:
thanks dan. have to say it can be very frustrating watching these great autumn conditions and not being able to get out climbing, but we chose to have another child and i need to work so have just got to make the best of it for now and hope that things calm down by next spring.
anyway, reasonable week last week:
mon - c7 mile run with c1000ft climbing in 1hr 20secs (yes secs, not mins)
tue - circuits at edge. thought i managed a 4x4 set on the 6b/+ circuit but later found i'd misread the instructions. each circuit took me 50-55 seconds and i did manage 4 sets of: circuit, rest, circuit, rest, circuit, rest, circuit (where rest time = circuit time), followed by 4 minute rest then repeat until done 4 times. will go back today and see how i go trying it properly
wed - c6 mile flat run with couple of hill sprints in the middle at 7:28 per mile
thu - nothing
fri - works with leon. managed similar number of problems but different ones (i like the less powerful, more technical ones). bit frustrating having had 2 weeks off so early in training and felt like i was starting again. must try to avoid this frustration again
sat - nothing, was wife's day off from looking after children so my day on
new STG for this week - have BF scales and new GPS watch arriving so goal to use them as part of training so can record stats/progress more accurately
thanks dan. have to say it can be very frustrating watching these great autumn conditions and not being able to get out climbing, but we chose to have another child and i need to work so have just got to make the best of it for now and hope that things calm down by next spring.
anyway, reasonable week last week:
mon - c7 mile run with c1000ft climbing in 1hr 20secs (yes secs, not mins)
tue - circuits at edge. thought i managed a 4x4 set on the 6b/+ circuit but later found i'd misread the instructions. each circuit took me 50-55 seconds and i did manage 4 sets of: circuit, rest, circuit, rest, circuit, rest, circuit (where rest time = circuit time), followed by 4 minute rest then repeat until done 4 times. will go back today and see how i go trying it properly
wed - c6 mile flat run with couple of hill sprints in the middle at 7:28 per mile
thu - nothing
fri - works with leon. managed similar number of problems but different ones (i like the less powerful, more technical ones). bit frustrating having had 2 weeks off so early in training and felt like i was starting again. must try to avoid this frustration again
sat - nothing, was wife's day off from looking after children so my day on
new STG for this week - have BF scales and new GPS watch arriving so goal to use them as part of training so can record stats/progress more accurately
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan, I could probably fit in x2 a week, it's hard to justify buying trainers not knowing if will stick at it tho, so will have a ponder
Not a bad week saying I had a cold. Lots of encouragement from folks at wall encouraging me to try harder things and push myself more.
M
T Routes at harrogate, cold coming on and feeling grotty so did mainly technical slabs but then suprised myself by leading my first two 6a's. Looks like I've finally hit the promised rapid newbie improvement phase in the last few weeks
W
T Bouldering at red goat - completely knackered myself working on the steep problems I've put off before then pottered around for second half with shredded fingers. Good crowd and a laugh.
F Very stiff between shoulder blades, need to do steep stuff more often.
S+S Bought dishonored for ps3 and had a perfect lazy weekend doing sod all.
Thanks Dan, I could probably fit in x2 a week, it's hard to justify buying trainers not knowing if will stick at it tho, so will have a ponder
Not a bad week saying I had a cold. Lots of encouragement from folks at wall encouraging me to try harder things and push myself more.
M
T Routes at harrogate, cold coming on and feeling grotty so did mainly technical slabs but then suprised myself by leading my first two 6a's. Looks like I've finally hit the promised rapid newbie improvement phase in the last few weeks
W
T Bouldering at red goat - completely knackered myself working on the steep problems I've put off before then pottered around for second half with shredded fingers. Good crowd and a laugh.
F Very stiff between shoulder blades, need to do steep stuff more often.
S+S Bought dishonored for ps3 and had a perfect lazy weekend doing sod all.
In reply to Kevster: Yeah it was fun - especially on the routes that actually feel solid... I think Avenging may be a long term project, but pretty psyched to have a proper crack at it. None of us got round to the cave stuff - I reckon once Avenging gets ticked that may be the next logical option! Def looking to go back there as a winter venue if the sun's out.
In reply to Ali:
Worth knowing as well that ATH stays dry, save for the top 10 feet or so, in steady rain. Of course, you might get a bit damp walking down to it!
Gets less sun than you hope for just because it's tucked away at the back so with the wall facing one way and the earth berm on the other side it was always more shady than I had hoped.
I can't remember exactly but I'm sure there's a few good rests on it to help chunk it down (including a knee bar perhaps, although my memory may be playing tricks on me!).
Worth knowing as well that ATH stays dry, save for the top 10 feet or so, in steady rain. Of course, you might get a bit damp walking down to it!
Gets less sun than you hope for just because it's tucked away at the back so with the wall facing one way and the earth berm on the other side it was always more shady than I had hoped.
I can't remember exactly but I'm sure there's a few good rests on it to help chunk it down (including a knee bar perhaps, although my memory may be playing tricks on me!).
In reply to IainRUK: Nice work Iain - 11th when you've not trained for it specifically must feel good.
Matt - well done on finishing chap.
I had a few mates in it, all did okay and I'd been badgered to enter it myself - not one of them didn't complain about being cold!
Matt - well done on finishing chap.
I had a few mates in it, all did okay and I'd been badgered to enter it myself - not one of them didn't complain about being cold!
In reply to mrchewy: `surprised at how fell fit I was.. Maybe it just stays in your system, but my legs are shot today.
Well done Matt, tough conditions yesterday. Day 1 was huge, day 2 easier, but we messed up nav on day 1, I think we were careless as we'd had no issues and the weather was great.. day 2 was a real epic day out.
Well done Matt, tough conditions yesterday. Day 1 was huge, day 2 easier, but we messed up nav on day 1, I think we were careless as we'd had no issues and the weather was great.. day 2 was a real epic day out.
In reply to IainRUK: Oh Tried to find a few who I knew but it was impossible.. just tent city and most were in bed early. I was in bed soon after 7.. slept surprisingly well on the balloon bed.. took the luxury of a synthetic puffy jacket, it was fantastic.
In reply to IainRUK:
.. slept surprisingly well on the balloon bed..
Balloon beds are awesome. I've snowholed with mine a couple of times and despite a couple of overnight punctures it was very effective.
.. slept surprisingly well on the balloon bed..
Balloon beds are awesome. I've snowholed with mine a couple of times and despite a couple of overnight punctures it was very effective.
In reply to IainRUK:
Fair enough. I took my Montane Prism synthetic jacket and as I was so warm in my Alpkit sleeping bag, I ended up taking it off half way through the night. I think kitwise we did quite well. Our nav was poor at the end of day one as well. If we'd combined the pace of day 1 with the nav of day 2, each day, we would have done a lot better. Day 2 was properly grim. Very glad to see all the free food and soup at the end of the day. Wasn't expecting that at all, so it was great.
The ballonbed for the money was great. £25 and 100gms and yeah, it was quite comfy for a night. I didn't really blow mine up enough, so it was quite short, just covered my torso/arse.
Fair enough. I took my Montane Prism synthetic jacket and as I was so warm in my Alpkit sleeping bag, I ended up taking it off half way through the night. I think kitwise we did quite well. Our nav was poor at the end of day one as well. If we'd combined the pace of day 1 with the nav of day 2, each day, we would have done a lot better. Day 2 was properly grim. Very glad to see all the free food and soup at the end of the day. Wasn't expecting that at all, so it was great.
The ballonbed for the money was great. £25 and 100gms and yeah, it was quite comfy for a night. I didn't really blow mine up enough, so it was quite short, just covered my torso/arse.
In reply to mattrm: Balloon beds are def warmer than anything else for the weight, though my second experience with them didn't seem as great as the first!
AJM - there were a couple of kneebars I think - Nick & Hazel managed to get what looked like a good one in about half way up, but my legs are too short for it
AJM - there were a couple of kneebars I think - Nick & Hazel managed to get what looked like a good one in about half way up, but my legs are too short for it
In reply to Ali:
I remember something just after you go through a roof that has some good shakeout jugs on its lip, maybe 3-4 clips up, where theres a undercut/flake sort of thing, and I'm sure Gaastra had something in on the right about 2-3 bolts above that too, not far from the lip.
Keep playing - I'm sure there will be one there that works for you!
I remember something just after you go through a roof that has some good shakeout jugs on its lip, maybe 3-4 clips up, where theres a undercut/flake sort of thing, and I'm sure Gaastra had something in on the right about 2-3 bolts above that too, not far from the lip.
Keep playing - I'm sure there will be one there that works for you!
In reply to Ali:
Sorry to answer your question a bit late.... Something Stupid was dry on sat, as were most things but if you'd come up for the weekend you'd have had a miserable time on Sunday. Fairly constant drizzle with a south westerly wind.
I went today and the entire left hand side was soaked.
Sorry to answer your question a bit late.... Something Stupid was dry on sat, as were most things but if you'd come up for the weekend you'd have had a miserable time on Sunday. Fairly constant drizzle with a south westerly wind.
I went today and the entire left hand side was soaked.
In reply to grubes:
I was working on the Yellows on Friday. Did you manage all of them? I found a couple of them desperate.
I was working on the Yellows on Friday. Did you manage all of them? I found a couple of them desperate.
In reply to Eagle River: That makes me feel slightly better! If we end up with a dry winter and there's some warmth in the air, still like to get up at some point to get that route ticked!
In reply to leon:
I got most some stuff to go back for though. The one on the hanging block looked completely desperate so skipped it.
There was a really nice delicate one on small crimps on the left hand end of the slab wall.
I got most some stuff to go back for though. The one on the hanging block looked completely desperate so skipped it.
There was a really nice delicate one on small crimps on the left hand end of the slab wall.
In reply to Ali: If there ends up a fit club malham meet, I think I could be convince to come out of limestone hibernation.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan.
Mon: nowt
Tues: Slate quarries, Llanberis. Backed off a wet and soggy 6a, then onsighted 6a and 6b+. Then toproped a delicate slabby 7a+ twice, with no real intention of redpointing it. On reflection I really should have given it a go.
Wed: 4.5 mile trail run with the bowland runners
Thurs: Crookrise. onsighted a poorly protected VS 4b (Flake Wall) and then FELL OFF an E2 (The Shelf)
Fri: nowt
Sat: 8.5 mile trail run Pendle Hill
Sun: nowt
Bit of a crappy week really. Weekend was a wash out as I had other stuff on.
Wimped out of doing any thing hard on Tuesday. The 7a+ was a good route, really delicate footwork on small holds. I thought it was a bit run out tho so didn't want to RP it. Tortured myself afterwards for being a wimp.
Crookrise on Thursday was a bit damp. Lots of lame excuses for falling off The Shelf the best of which is the conditions - the hold I was using was greasy and in my overgripping pumped state I slipped off it. But it probably would have been doable if my head had been in the right place and I wasn't scared and/or pumped. On the plus side my gear all held and I didn't die. Always a bonus! And I got on an E2. Would have been nice to actually succeed on it but hey ho at least I tried.
Not got any goals at the moment. Not really sure where I'm going or what I'm doing. Had a day at Malham yesterday with Eagle River which served to show me how weak my fingers are. Hmmm. Will give some thought to targets for winter over the next few weeks.
Thanks Dan.
Mon: nowt
Tues: Slate quarries, Llanberis. Backed off a wet and soggy 6a, then onsighted 6a and 6b+. Then toproped a delicate slabby 7a+ twice, with no real intention of redpointing it. On reflection I really should have given it a go.
Wed: 4.5 mile trail run with the bowland runners
Thurs: Crookrise. onsighted a poorly protected VS 4b (Flake Wall) and then FELL OFF an E2 (The Shelf)
Fri: nowt
Sat: 8.5 mile trail run Pendle Hill
Sun: nowt
Bit of a crappy week really. Weekend was a wash out as I had other stuff on.
Wimped out of doing any thing hard on Tuesday. The 7a+ was a good route, really delicate footwork on small holds. I thought it was a bit run out tho so didn't want to RP it. Tortured myself afterwards for being a wimp.
Crookrise on Thursday was a bit damp. Lots of lame excuses for falling off The Shelf the best of which is the conditions - the hold I was using was greasy and in my overgripping pumped state I slipped off it. But it probably would have been doable if my head had been in the right place and I wasn't scared and/or pumped. On the plus side my gear all held and I didn't die. Always a bonus! And I got on an E2. Would have been nice to actually succeed on it but hey ho at least I tried.
Not got any goals at the moment. Not really sure where I'm going or what I'm doing. Had a day at Malham yesterday with Eagle River which served to show me how weak my fingers are. Hmmm. Will give some thought to targets for winter over the next few weeks.
In reply to Nomics4sale: What did you get on at malham?
goals for you: 7b or harder in catalunya march?
goals for you: 7b or harder in catalunya march?
In reply to grubes:
Toproped Consenting Adults and Free and Even Easier. And they both felt desperate! I'm so weak!
Yeah 7b could work for Catalunya but I'm not keen to get stuck into a week long project, just in case I don't get it. Might see how winter goes, see if I can get up some 7as and 7bs at the wall and if all goes well aim for 7b in March.
You got some routes in mind for Chorro? Tick a 7a and then get on summat harder? Or just get straight on summat harder??
Toproped Consenting Adults and Free and Even Easier. And they both felt desperate! I'm so weak!
Yeah 7b could work for Catalunya but I'm not keen to get stuck into a week long project, just in case I don't get it. Might see how winter goes, see if I can get up some 7as and 7bs at the wall and if all goes well aim for 7b in March.
You got some routes in mind for Chorro? Tick a 7a and then get on summat harder? Or just get straight on summat harder??
In reply to Nomics4sale: Well it depends.
Biscuit is keen for another 7b and I would love to invest time into a 3day project.
I want to tick arabesque after a breif top rope last year. will probs try and bolt to bolt it. Very my style and felt do able a year ago. SO reckon that would go with out too much time. Vicky is keen for that so I can do that when biscuit is busy later in the week.
I also want to get something big done as its a while since I got any proper exposure in. I need to get used to it again ready for sqaumish next year but I have plenty of time to get ready for that. Amptrak on a easy day would be a good shout. Going light and fast.
Have you done rose coronary? you would fly up that and give you a confidence tick for malham.
Biscuit is keen for another 7b and I would love to invest time into a 3day project.
I want to tick arabesque after a breif top rope last year. will probs try and bolt to bolt it. Very my style and felt do able a year ago. SO reckon that would go with out too much time. Vicky is keen for that so I can do that when biscuit is busy later in the week.
I also want to get something big done as its a while since I got any proper exposure in. I need to get used to it again ready for sqaumish next year but I have plenty of time to get ready for that. Amptrak on a easy day would be a good shout. Going light and fast.
Have you done rose coronary? you would fly up that and give you a confidence tick for malham.
In reply to grubes:
Yeah I was thinking I should probably try something at Malham just to get over my issues with the place. It would be a major achievement for me to tick anything there and you're right RC is a good place to start. Discussion with ER made me realise it's probably the only sport crag that will be at all doable over winter.
Arabesque should go pretty easily for you, leaving loads of time for other stuff, 7a, amptrak and a 7b, that would be a good haul for the week...
Is squamish all big wall stuff? Awesome.
Yeah I was thinking I should probably try something at Malham just to get over my issues with the place. It would be a major achievement for me to tick anything there and you're right RC is a good place to start. Discussion with ER made me realise it's probably the only sport crag that will be at all doable over winter.
Arabesque should go pretty easily for you, leaving loads of time for other stuff, 7a, amptrak and a 7b, that would be a good haul for the week...
Is squamish all big wall stuff? Awesome.
In reply to grubes:
it needs to stop raining first :0(
My wife goes back to the UK on the 8th but i am allowed to play with my friends for 3 days out of the 4 from 4th - 7th.
I'll make those 3 days fit what you want to go for, i'll just be happy to be out.
it needs to stop raining first :0(
My wife goes back to the UK on the 8th but i am allowed to play with my friends for 3 days out of the 4 from 4th - 7th.
I'll make those 3 days fit what you want to go for, i'll just be happy to be out.
In reply to Nomics4sale: If I hear you claiming weakness once more I'm going to take a photo of your biceps and post them online! ;-D
In reply to pebbles:
he heh well weak FINGERS was my excuse not weak biceps.... Fair cop tho guv, must be lacking in technique!
he heh well weak FINGERS was my excuse not weak biceps.... Fair cop tho guv, must be lacking in technique!
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Well the stuff I really want to do is on the cheif and is big multi pitch. However there is bouldering and single pitch sport and trad I want to do.
I am going to have three weeks there so I can do a bit of everything
Well the stuff I really want to do is on the cheif and is big multi pitch. However there is bouldering and single pitch sport and trad I want to do.
I am going to have three weeks there so I can do a bit of everything
In reply to biscuit: forecast to stop saturday (or sunday depending on which forecast) there is always desplo or poeme de roca area if it doesn't could be busy though
In reply to grubes:
Then it's a good job i have a car and am prepared to drive to find quiet dry rock ;0)
We'll be fine I'm sure.
> (In reply to biscuit) forecast to stop saturday (or sunday depending on which forecast) there is always desplo or poeme de roca area if it doesn't could be busy though
Then it's a good job i have a car and am prepared to drive to find quiet dry rock ;0)
We'll be fine I'm sure.
In reply to Nomics4sale: I think the key with Malham is to remember (and tell yourself) that EVERYTHING is nails!! Every time I climb there I think I'm weak when actually I think I've just forgotten that its really technical. But...once you have sequences worked out on routes they feel much easier - maybe just best to get on a project, work it and I'm sure you'll tick it quicker than you expect!
In reply to Ali:
Yeah super technical crimpy climbing, not really my style! Would be nice to get a tick quicker than expected
Yeah super technical crimpy climbing, not really my style! Would be nice to get a tick quicker than expected
In reply to
Ali: ATH has a few knee bars on it, I have beta for it again if you get stuck!
Ajm: black snake moan was a possible winter idea for me, any knowledge about style.or difficulty? I suspect ally will have some if I tap him up, though I'd like to try it before spoiling.
Kev.
Ali: ATH has a few knee bars on it, I have beta for it again if you get stuck!
Ajm: black snake moan was a possible winter idea for me, any knowledge about style.or difficulty? I suspect ally will have some if I tap him up, though I'd like to try it before spoiling.
Kev.
In reply to Kevster:
Ian Bell: not tried Cocteau phenomenon, but on the list, supposed to be good though, let us know if you have tried it, quidity may have been on it.
K
Ian Bell: not tried Cocteau phenomenon, but on the list, supposed to be good though, let us know if you have tried it, quidity may have been on it.
K
In reply to Kevster:
Sorry, not been on it. Apart from it sharing the start of Storm Warning, all i know is that it has a definite crux move, and that if you use an obvious rest that the FA decided to omit, it's low in the grade.
Sorry, not been on it. Apart from it sharing the start of Storm Warning, all i know is that it has a definite crux move, and that if you use an obvious rest that the FA decided to omit, it's low in the grade.
In reply to Kevster: Were they dependant on leg length? I seem to have stumpy ones...at least compared to Quiddity and Curious Yellow! Managed to get the top right one but only just pushing off toe...to be honest it would probably have helped if I'd have been less tired so I guess next time I can have a proper go I'll try and figure them out. More worried about the left hand pull over the first roof at the minute - need to fix wrist before getting back on that!
In reply to Kevster:
Kev,
I was watching some folk on it today as it happens.
So yeah, as ally says it obviously starts up storm warning which is thin with a hard move involving a high foot and undercut from what I've seen (hopefully that doesn't give too much away?!). You then traverse a bit left in the break line to a massive flake which looks to give a very good rest based on how long it was being rested on; I assume that this is the very obvious rest ally mentions which was avoided on the fa. I don't know if it was avoided with the feet as well as the hands; if not it seems rather eliminate? Either way it's got a very definite hard move/sequence on the black streak above, fairly short lived. Other beta - it has a single bolt anchor. And the black streak does seep sometimes after rain.
Hth,
Andy
> Ajm: black snake moan was a possible winter idea for me, any knowledge about style.or difficulty? I suspect ally will have some if I tap him up, though I'd like to try it before spoiling.
Kev,
I was watching some folk on it today as it happens.
So yeah, as ally says it obviously starts up storm warning which is thin with a hard move involving a high foot and undercut from what I've seen (hopefully that doesn't give too much away?!). You then traverse a bit left in the break line to a massive flake which looks to give a very good rest based on how long it was being rested on; I assume that this is the very obvious rest ally mentions which was avoided on the fa. I don't know if it was avoided with the feet as well as the hands; if not it seems rather eliminate? Either way it's got a very definite hard move/sequence on the black streak above, fairly short lived. Other beta - it has a single bolt anchor. And the black streak does seep sometimes after rain.
Hth,
Andy
In reply to grubes:
Have been in the US the last couple of months and heard nothing but good things about Squamish. However, be prepared to spend some time learning the art of granite climbing. It's not really like anything we've got here in the UK! Much more full body climbing than your average English route.
Have been in the US the last couple of months and heard nothing but good things about Squamish. However, be prepared to spend some time learning the art of granite climbing. It's not really like anything we've got here in the UK! Much more full body climbing than your average English route.
In reply to seankenny:
Cheers Sean.
I am stupidly excited about this trip. Yeah I heard that about granite too.
How did you get on out there?
Cheers Sean.
I am stupidly excited about this trip. Yeah I heard that about granite too.
How did you get on out there?
In reply to grubes:
I wonder if the Squamish granite is anything like Yosemite Valley..... If it is, good practice would be to lock yourself in a wardrobe and thrash about until exhausted! The most calories I have ever consumed was ascending around 5m up a valley offwidth that was likely graded about HS!
I wonder if the Squamish granite is anything like Yosemite Valley..... If it is, good practice would be to lock yourself in a wardrobe and thrash about until exhausted! The most calories I have ever consumed was ascending around 5m up a valley offwidth that was likely graded about HS!
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