/ Namenlos, Stanage, technical crux?
Very much teetering up the slabby quarter cone. The bottom bit would be VS. A sneaky hidden runner before you start makes the crux safeish and there are 'psychological' runners to laugh at if you miss it.
Start is steep but well protected as I remember prob about 5a. The second crux is bold but slabby, even bolder if you miss the sneaky hidden runner.
I'm with Offwidth, it's definitely the teetery slabby bit.
It's been a while since I did it and I'm a bit better at climbing cracks these days but my view at the time was that the technical crux was the bottom crack and that this bit would be VS 5a on its own. The slabby ramp is obviously a bit more taxing psychologically but no more than 4b/c and with good gear in the break. It was E1 when I did it and I thought it was overgraded by two grades but easy HVS doesn't seem too unreasonable.
Mild VS in the original Paul Nunn guide
It's the obvious hard bit in the middle.
If you climb the wall a foot to the right of the crack it's much easier than sticking rigidly to the crack.
> Mild VS in the original Paul Nunn guide
Wasn't it described in 2 pitches in Paul's guide?
> I'm with Offwidth, it's definitely the teetery slabby bit.
I'm with victim of mathematics it's definitely the teetery slabby bit.
But HVS 5a in the 4th Edition (1987) of that guide, so I assume he thought better of it ...
365 Namenlos 13m HVS 5a **
Climb the thin crack at the right-hand end of the buttress. Move
left from the ledge into a delicate unprotected shallow scoop.
This is the finish (or it will be if you fall off.)
Coel, yes, in the end I strayed a little right at the beginning but it felt like a bit of a cop out :-(
Either way, I was punching above my weight a bit, just curious where it should have been hard (5a) but very happy to get to the top, even in questionable style.
I understand avoiding holds within easy reach if they are (1) indoors, (2) made of plastic, and (3) a different colour, but outside I usually regard all holds that are within reach as fair game!
Technical crux is the top but not by much.
As I am a coward, I found the upper section much harder than the crack and gear lower down. Having said that, it felt soft at E1, when you consider that Goliath's thrutch and the R Unconq are so close.
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