/ Placing bolts, new routing

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vicosink - on 29 Oct 2012
Hello,

I'm looking for advice on new routing.

Does any one know a good guide for placing bolts?

Safety, methods, avoiding excessive rock damage, chisel vs drill etc.

Any links, personal advice, anecdotes or experience would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you all

Adam(living in Mexico, so don't fret about any local crags :) )
scott titt - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to vicosink:
Pretty much all you need to know is here
http://www.bolt-products.com/index.htm look at General Bolting info
philipivan - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to vicosink:

Where in Mexico? I climbed sport in Oxacca (sp?) and there seemed to be a few local activists. Probably need to speak to the locals first!
Kemics - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to vicosink:

Depends if you're placing expansions or glue-ins. There's a video tutorial here - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMFFYOdfcXw which covers the basics and wouldn't be a bad place to start. Though it is for placing resin bolts (imo the only way to go) it does also have a few bits on analysing the rock etc.
vicosink - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to vicosink:

Hey thanks, I'll have a good look at all of this. The bolt products page and the video are fantastic.

I'm living more or less in the city and I know a few of the local developers here but they are busy with a new bouldering area.
Getting the materials seems pretty straight forward I just wanted to see if there was any good solid british advice out there :)

Sadly I don't know if I can get hold of glue-ins but the Petzl ones are pretty safe right? I hope so I've been falling on them for a few months :P
paul mitchell - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to vicosink: Often when bolts start to go in, holds get chipped.
I guess Mexico is a bit of a risky place to have heated disagreements...


Mitch
ads.ukclimbing.com
vicosink - on 29 Oct 2012
In reply to paul mitchell:

Yea actually Paul this is totally true around here. I was reading the other day a piece by a local on a forum(much like UKC)fully advocating chipping holds.
His point was that if there was an amazing route above then it would be a shame not to enjoy it. I can kind of appreciate his view although I'm sure I agree.

Also at my local crag there is a couple routes with holds cemented on. To finish them or to bypass seemingly impossible sections.

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