/ Alps 4000m peaks article

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jthallen - on 31 Oct 2012
Just over a year ago I began researching the number of Brits who had done all the so-called 4000m peaks of the Alps for an article. I also discussed in the article the criteria for a 4000m peak (incl Blodig, Collomb, Moran, UIAA). Only 16 Brits stepped forward (self-certified) with the claim up to end March 2012.
I sent the article speculatively to the Alpine Journal and recently discovered that it will not be included in the 2012 issue. So I adapted it slightly (for Rucksack Club fans - E Thomas and B Cosby as completers and members of RC) and sent it to the RCJ Editor (I too am a member of the RC, and AC). He says the article will be in the next RCJ as 'Height is not Everything in the Alps' in about 3,700 words.
If anyone would like a copy of the article, I will e-mail a copy (text only, no photos) as a pdf attachment.
Has anyone completed this year 2012, thus adding to the 16 so far?
Avinash1 - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to jthallen:

Would love a copy.

aujayeb@doctors.net.uk
Iain Thow - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to jthallen:
I'd love a copy too please. I had designs on the 4000m list years ago but domestication intervened and I'm now unlikely to improve on my 20-odd.

iain_thow@yahoo.co.uk

Cheers,
Iain
Rollo - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to jthallen: Yes please!

rolychuter@hotmail.com
DerWanderer - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to jthallen: I'd love one thanks
daniel baker - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to jthallen:
i would like a copy please
hokkyokusei - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to jthallen:

I'd like a copy, please.
Avinash1 - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to Iain Thow:
Am trying to prevent the domestication, but think it is out of my control
bubu - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to jthallen:

I'd like a copy please

averil_shepley@hotmail.com
JonHarvey - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen: sounds real interesting, would love a copy if possible :-)

jondrum@hotmail.co.uk
chris bedford - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen:
Yes please....about five left to do (three for the wife....).
Thanks.
cmb@radley.org.uk
TP on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen:

I would be very keen to see a copy of this article. I assume it is addressed, but were the 16 you refer to were unguided, that is, not with a paid guide for any of the climbs? And was Will McLewin the first person to complete the "list"? - his book, by the way, is suberb and is a must read in my view for anyone with an interst in the alps.
davy_boy - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen: i would be interested in a copy as well mate davy_boy2004@hotmail.co.uk
jthallen - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to DerWanderer:
> (In reply to jthallen) I'd love one thanks.

Hello DerWanderer

Please e-mail me your e-mail address so that I can send a pdf attached.

John Allen

jthallen - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to daniel baker:

Hello Daniel Baker

Please send me your e-mail address so that I can reply with pdf attachment.

John Allen
jthallen - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to hokkyokusei:

Hello Hokkyokusei

Please send me your e-mail address so that I can forward the article by pdf attachment.

John Allen
jthallen - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to TP:

Hello TP

Eustace Thomas, founder of a successful Manchester engineering company, was first Brit to complete any sort of list by 1933. He started in 1923 with guide Josef Knubel and did most with him by 1929 - remarkable. Will McLewin completed his personal list and was the first Brit without guides. Moran and Jenkins each had a guide with them in 1993 - each other!

Please send your e-mail address for a pdf attachment.

John Allen
Solaris - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to TP:
> (In reply to jthallen)
> And was Will McLewin the first person to complete the "list"?

I think so. But let's not forget Kate Ross (like McLewin, a mathematician) who is, so far as is so far known, the first British woman to complete the 4000ers when she did the Taschhorn in 2009.

Does anyone know if any British woman completed the 4000ers before '09?

veteye - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen:
I too would like to add my name to the growing list please.
Rob

veteye@yahoo.co.uk
davy_boy - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen: thats a very interesting article john
maxsmith - on 03 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen: I would love to read your article please! louiesmithwork@hotmail.co.uk
Al Evans on 03 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen: Can't you just post a link to the article, I'm sure masses of us want to read it.
jthallen - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Al Evans:
I am so illiterate in such matters that I didn't think of doing a link. I am not familiar with UKClimbing and generally don't spend much time on them.

I don't know how to do this, but I have contacted the UKClimbing Articles Editor with a view to making the article more generally available.

Thanks for the interest.

By the way I think I have seen your name in climbing over tens of years - forgive me for that, but I began climbing while at school in 1955, first went to the Alps in 1956 and have been going ever since. So I have done a few of the 4000m peaks - 47, and given up now age 73.

John Allen
Simon4 - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen:

> So I have done a few of the 4000m peaks - 47, and given up now age 73.

So which ones haven't you done John, and why have you given up?
Al Evans on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Simon4: When you get to 73 you may have a clue, it's not just mind over matter that stops you.
Simon4 - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Al Evans: Actually I know that, I just hope to slip the last ones in before my body notices.
DerWanderer - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen:
traviesusmaximus@hotmail.com

Many thanks
Al Evans on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to DerWanderer: Actually wasn't a Dark Peak Fell Runner, called Will, somebody please supply his other name the first Briton to summit all the 4000mt peaks in the Alps, I think it was about 20 years ago?
rif on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to Al Evans:
that sounds like Will McLewin, already mentioned higher in the thread
hokkyokusei - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen:
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> I am so illiterate in such matters that I didn't think of doing a link. I am not familiar with UKClimbing and generally don't spend much time on them.

If you email me (sent you my email early, but I will resend) I could host the pdf and provide a link for people to download it from.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Neil Mackenzie - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen:

I would be very interested to read this, shame it was not included in this years ACJ

please email to neil.mackenzie@roslin.ed.ac.uk

Many thanks!
Neil
Al Evans on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to rif: It was Will. thank you I hadn't read that earlier in the thread.
Dave Wynne-Jones on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to Solaris:
Kate has also gone back to reclimb some of these peaks in recent years which is pretty impressive.
I only know of Barbara Swindon who climbed all but one of the 4000m mountains. She has a book out at the moment published by Vertebrate press called apprpriately "All but One."
On the issue of guided ascents mentioned earlier in the thread, I believe I'm one of the 16 "completers" and I'm pretty sure I know 5 of the others. None of us used guides for any of the ascents.
monkeyboyraw - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to jthallen:

I'd be keen for a copy please

monkeyboyraw@yahoo.co.uk
Solaris - on 07 Nov 2012
In reply to Dave Wynne-Jones:
> (In reply to Solaris)
> Kate has also gone back to reclimb some of these peaks in recent years which is pretty impressive.

As one of those who climbed with her on one of these - the traverse of the Ecrins, in the course of a mad week in which we did 25,000' of ascent and descent on 3 peaks and goodness knows how many miles by car - she's an inspiration!

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