/ What's the Best Ice Pillar Route in Europe

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Dan Arkle - on 31 Oct 2012
I've always wanted to climb a huge free standing ice pillar, so which one is the biggest and best out there?

Dam du Lac sounds like a contender - what would the best month to book a trip?
Fergal - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Shiva Lingam.
machars on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle: Titanic
mike kann - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle: its not a free standing pillar, but its got to by on of the greatest cascade ice routes in the world, at 450 m... The cascade de gavarnie. Not the ones round the back, but the one up the side. I seem to remember that it contains both pillars and free hanging sections...
Dan Arkle - on 31 Oct 2012
In reply to mike kann:

Exciting!

Is Titanic on Torre Egger? I've not got very far googling titanic and ice climb, even with -wreck -sinking -1912 -ship in the box. (although if anyone has some better technical search tips let me know).

Shiva Lingam looks ace, and accessible too, what month is likely to be best?

AdrianC - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle: Have you looked in "Alpine Ice" by Mario Sertori?

http://www.versantesud.it/INGLESE/dettaglio.asp?id=139

If not, get a copy and it'll probably answer your question. When I read your post my first thought was also of La Dame du Lac - it's on my hit list!
machars on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle:
> (In reply to mike kann)
>
> Exciting!
>
> Is Titanic on Torre Egger? I've not got very far googling titanic and ice climb, even with -wreck -sinking -1912 -ship in the box. (although if anyone has some better technical search tips let me know).
>
> Shiva Lingam looks ace, and accessible too, what month is likely to be best?

It's in Switzerland- Simplon pass near Brig. There is a stunning picture of it in the Alpine Ice book. One day....
CurlyStevo - on 01 Nov 2012
mike kann - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle: Ere, dan, there's this bad boy too - I did it a few years ago, not leading i might add. It was shear mental lentils. If you go to the top like we did the route is 400m odd. Somewhere on my facebook account I must have a photo of the cliff from a distance: http://www.planetmountain.com/ice/cascate/itinerari/scheda.php?id_itinerario=740&lang=ita&id...
mike kann - on 01 Nov 2012
Fergal - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Nuit Blanche is also a stunning modern classic, for Shiva mid jan to late feb is probably best, avalanche hazard after a big dump.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=79608
In reply to Quagmire:
> avalanche hazard after a big dump.

There's a childish joke somewhere in there, but its not quite coming to me yet...

Where/what is Titanic mentioned above?

I'm pretty sure that best ice pillar is somewhere in Norway and hardly known to anyone not Norwegian, but that seems to be the way. Something like this http://www.isklatring.no/bilder/setesdalen/index.html
Fergal - on 01 Nov 2012
Fultonius - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to AdrianC:
> (In reply to Dan Arkle) Have you looked in "Alpine Ice" by Mario Sertori?
>
> http://www.versantesud.it/INGLESE/dettaglio.asp?id=139
>
> If not, get a copy and it'll probably answer your question. When I read your post my first thought was also of La Dame du Lac - it's on my hit list!

Awful, awful guidebook. Don;t even think of buying it. Terrible photos and topos, poor descriptions and so heavy you'll drop 1/2 a WI grade if it's in your rucksack.
CurlyStevo - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Fultonius:
I think it's quite good for getting a flavour of where the best mostly hard ice climbs in euorpe are, for actual use at any particular venue it looks fairly sub par.
tom290483 - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle:
> I've always wanted to climb a huge free standing ice pillar, so which one is the biggest and best out there?
>
>
simples.....

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=118230

smithaldo - on 11 Nov 2012
In reply to TobyA: Hardly Known to anyone not norwegian? Wasnt that area developed solely by brits and indeed that route is a ramsden one isnt it?
ads.ukclimbing.com
In reply to smithaldo: May well be (is that area in that new guide?). I was just looking for a nice pic of something that shows the sort of monsters out there beyond Rjukan.

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