/ uks best e2s

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d conacher - on 01 Nov 2012
Thought somebody might have posted this before,hopefully this will encourage folk back into the mountians.tell me your favorite multi pitch mountain route and best single pitch,i will kick us off with mine.darius for my single pitch and shibboleth<df> for my multi pitch,
cheers dougie
The Pylon King on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Left Wall

White Slab
dannyboy83 - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Can't make my mind up:

Prophesy of drowning (guess this isnt really mountain trad) or Astra

The Rasp or The Butcher

Sean Kelly - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher: Vector, Aura, Extol, Strand, and Elder Crack from personal experience. Single or multi-pitch doesn't really effect the quality of the climbing, unless you just want the quality to go on and on!
Jon Stewart - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Elegy
Saxon

and also

Geriatrics
highclimber - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Sean Kelly: Strand is a gift at e2 but still a good route. Branflake is great too.
Si dH - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Single pitch; Darius, with honourable mentions to Left Wall and Wombat (Malham)


Multi-pitch; Vector or Bow Wall, but I haven't really done that many
conorcussell - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher: Paradox at Wilton and Overhanging Arete on Cyrn Las
Tom Last - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Diabaig Pillar
Desolation Row
Ssshhh - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Extol is a somewhat cruel sandbag in there. E2 going on E4...

In reply to d conacher: (for a Scottish flavour)
Internationale, Kilt Rock
Steeple, Shelterstone Crag
mr mills - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Single Pitch - has to be the immaculate Left Wall

Multi pitch - Ten Degrees North
Jon Stewart - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to mr mills:
> (In reply to d conacher)
>
> Single Pitch - has to be the immaculate Left Wall
>
> Multi pitch - Ten Degrees North

One day this summer I tried both of these. LW was alright, but I fell off the uninspiring, permadamp, comprehensively lichened and thus frictionless Ten Degrees North. I've tried to do routes on that buttress where everything's meant to be amazing several times now and never got started. Even after a few days dry weather, they're always damp. And they look so utterly uninspiring. I've concluded that all the hype is just some silly joke and I'm not going to go back.
dan gibson - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Sandpiper
Conchubair
Mizen Star
The Brasser

All at Fairhead, and great routes.
Si dH - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Nexus and plexus were brilliant when i did them and not damp or dirty at all. Several ppl were on ten degrees north that day but I didnt have the bottle to try it. I think you probably need a similarly warm spell to cyrn las or cloggy though.
Jon Stewart - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
> I think you probably need a similarly warm spell to cyrn las or cloggy though.

Sounds about right. After our atrocious summer it was minging, didn't appear to have been climbed all year.
climbingpixie - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Pull my Daisy as my favourite single pitch and Central Pillar as my favourite mountain multi-pitch. If we were allowing non-mountain multipitch then it would be Mousetrap.
Tom Last - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to d conacher)
>
> Diabaig Pillar
> Desolation Row

Sorry, I know they're both single pitch.
Bern - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:
Torro, Ben Nevis, 8 magnificent pitches.

Ichabod, Scafell, in a single pitch, great position.
Robert Durran - on 01 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Steeple (honorary mentions to Shibboleth and Angel Face and White Slab)

Left Wall (if I have to accept the E2 grade), otherwise Children of the Sea (Lewis) or Geriatrics (Sheigra).

If I am also allowed a multi-pitch sea cliff route, it is impossible to see beyond Prophecy of Drowning.
Al Evans on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Robert Durran: As I've said before in similar threads, it's all a question of when you did them.
Cruel Sister because it was one of the early ascents of one of the 'new' Lakes super routes.
The Moon, because I was with Jim Moran and you just couldn't have a bad time with Jim.
Widespread Ocean of Fear, because I was seconding a supremely talented young (15) climber called Tom Briggs.

Not stricktly sticking to the E2 grade I know, but I felt I was leading about E2 easily at those times.
ads.ukclimbing.com
richardr - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

The best I've done:

Left Wall (slightly marred by copping out left I thought)
Darius (Beats all the others for me)
Quartz Icicle (Good climbing, interesting feature and intricate/ rewarding route finding)
Deranged (Definitive Pembroke)
Out Of The Blue (1st E2 so maybe rose tinted)

Personal choice so don't flame me!

Sacred Coeur was great for the position and the Church itself. Boring climbing though.
victim of mathematics - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to mr mills)
> [...]
>
> One day this summer I tried both of these. LW was alright, but I fell off the uninspiring, permadamp, comprehensively lichened and thus frictionless Ten Degrees North. I've tried to do routes on that buttress where everything's meant to be amazing several times now and never got started. Even after a few days dry weather, they're always damp. And they look so utterly uninspiring. I've concluded that all the hype is just some silly joke and I'm not going to go back.

You're wrong - that buttress IS amazing. You just chose a bad time for it. But you already knew that...
Alun - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to richardr:
> Left Wall (slightly marred by copping out left I thought)

It's the natural line, going straight up feels artificial. vats wot I find anyway.

My favouritest single pitch ever, which happens to be E2:

First Blood at St Govan's east.
nniff - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

I'd opt for the Weaver at Tremadog instead of Vector.

Left Wall - straight up or left at the top - both are great

Kangaroo Wall at Wintours Leap (noting that I have yet to finish it (or start it with enough daylight).

Beowolf and Bow Wall at Bosgran

lmarenzi - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to nniff:

LW and Kagaroo Wall would have been mine too.

Uncanny!
metal arms on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to dan gibson:
> (In reply to d conacher)
>
> Sandpiper
> Conchubair
> Mizen Star
> The Brasser
>
> All at Fairhead, and great routes.

Is the correct answer!

Although I'll chuck Cúchulainn, Hurricane and Equinox into the mix too!

for non-Fairhead good E2s

Deep Space - Mother Careys
Mythical Monster - Huntsmans Leap
Great Central Route - Chee Tor (It's probably a bit of a Marmite one though)
Robert Durran - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Alun:
> (In reply to richardr)
>
> It's the natural line, going straight up feels artificial.

Indeed. And straight up is definitely not E2 anyway.
PeakDJ on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

Has anyone mentioned the Strand at Gogarth yet? Has to be up there in terms of quality of line, situation etc.

Also, how about the Sun at Rhoscolyn?

Agree that Left Wall definitely has to be on the list. Also the Pillar @ Diabaig.

Alex@home - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to metal arms:
> (In reply to dan gibson)
> [...]
>
> Is the correct answer!
>
> Although I'll chuck Cúchulainn, Hurricane and Equinox into the mix too!
>

and scorpion - come on, someone else must have done it. borderline e3 but whatever grade it's better than all of the others mentioned (apart from cuchullain which i haven't done so can't comment on). that's not a slight on the others which are all fantastic, just scorpion's better.

> for non-Fairhead good E2s
> Great Central Route - Chee Tor (It's probably a bit of a Marmite one though)
hmm - it's ok but imo there are better e2s there - 2 sunspots for a start

no mentions of scoop wall yet? ok then, scoop wall

metal arms on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Alex@home:
> (In reply to metal arms)
> [...]
>
> and scorpion - come on, someone else must have done it.

We ran out of time and didn't do that one. On the list for when I can organise a return visit.

> [Great Central route]
> hmm - it's ok but imo there are better e2s there - 2 sunspots for a start

You're probably right. I liked it because I had a big old battle on the top of it, and it's pretty much straight up the middle of the crag. I'll do 2 Sunspots next time I visit.
James Oswald - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

The ones I've done which were amazing:
The strand (fairly soft but ace)
Left Wall - generally ace
Five finger exercise
Fern Hill
Beano Vista - such amazing rock

Bulls Crack - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher:

The Bug (Toiladh) rather than Diabaig Pillar
Mousetrap
Vector
Deep Space
Lucky Strike (if still E2)
Darius
Mandarin - Houghton
Owen W-G - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to d conacher)
>
> Diabaig Pillar
> Desolation Row

Them two are right top of my list. Need to go north of the border first! Looked at des row on two occasions now. Usually takes a sweaty hour to find and also usually wet and scary looking.
Owen W-G - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Owen W-G:

Usually ones to mention - strand, vector, LW etc but I'll chuck a few unmentioned ones into the mix

Chimes of freedom at mowing word, sheer pleasure on perfect rock and positions

Sacre cover - calf blaster on a must climb lump of rock with a bomber wire and finger lock to be found every inch of the way, no footholds tho!

Aardvark - technically improbable non-pumpy climbing with pretnetions of being on the main cliff

Digitron
Aphasia
Ss special
The conger is untouchably top dws a the grade
Tim Sparrow on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher: Another vote for The Bug at Tollaidh.
Jon Stewart - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Owen W-G:
> (In reply to Southern Man)
> [...]
>
> Them two are right top of my list. Need to go north of the border first! Looked at des row on two occasions now. Usually takes a sweaty hour to find and also usually wet and scary looking.

Desolation Row is a brilliant pitch. A bit scary, but not too hard at the grade, and not slow to dry. I think I was a bit worried about wetness when I did it, but while there was loads of manky looking rock around, the whole route was dry. Possibly my favourite pitch in the SW, really big, sustained, subtle climbing, amazing intimidating setting - fantastic. The gear isn't very inspiring, but that's part of the buzz!
efrance24234 - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to d conacher: another vote for overhanging arete. .. just don't look down!
Michael Hood - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to efrance24234: not done it but surely the whole point of overhanging arete is the exposure, in which case you want to look down otherwise you'll miss it.

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