/ uks best e2s
Can't make my mind up:
Prophesy of drowning (guess this isnt really mountain trad) or Astra
The Rasp or The Butcher
Single pitch; Darius, with honourable mentions to Left Wall and Wombat (Malham)
Multi-pitch; Vector or Bow Wall, but I haven't really done that many
Extol is a somewhat cruel sandbag in there. E2 going on E4...
In reply to d conacher: (for a Scottish flavour)
Internationale, Kilt Rock
Steeple, Shelterstone Crag
Single Pitch - has to be the immaculate Left Wall
Multi pitch - Ten Degrees North
> Single Pitch - has to be the immaculate Left Wall
> Multi pitch - Ten Degrees North
One day this summer I tried both of these. LW was alright, but I fell off the uninspiring, permadamp, comprehensively lichened and thus frictionless Ten Degrees North. I've tried to do routes on that buttress where everything's meant to be amazing several times now and never got started. Even after a few days dry weather, they're always damp. And they look so utterly uninspiring. I've concluded that all the hype is just some silly joke and I'm not going to go back.
All at Fairhead, and great routes.
Nexus and plexus were brilliant when i did them and not damp or dirty at all. Several ppl were on ten degrees north that day but I didnt have the bottle to try it. I think you probably need a similarly warm spell to cyrn las or cloggy though.
> I think you probably need a similarly warm spell to cyrn las or cloggy though.
Sounds about right. After our atrocious summer it was minging, didn't appear to have been climbed all year.
Pull my Daisy as my favourite single pitch and Central Pillar as my favourite mountain multi-pitch. If we were allowing non-mountain multipitch then it would be Mousetrap.
> Diabaig Pillar
> Desolation Row
Sorry, I know they're both single pitch.
Torro, Ben Nevis, 8 magnificent pitches.
Ichabod, Scafell, in a single pitch, great position.
Steeple (honorary mentions to Shibboleth and Angel Face and White Slab)
Left Wall (if I have to accept the E2 grade), otherwise Children of the Sea (Lewis) or Geriatrics (Sheigra).
If I am also allowed a multi-pitch sea cliff route, it is impossible to see beyond Prophecy of Drowning.
Cruel Sister because it was one of the early ascents of one of the 'new' Lakes super routes.
The Moon, because I was with Jim Moran and you just couldn't have a bad time with Jim.
Widespread Ocean of Fear, because I was seconding a supremely talented young (15) climber called Tom Briggs.
Not stricktly sticking to the E2 grade I know, but I felt I was leading about E2 easily at those times.
The best I've done:
Left Wall (slightly marred by copping out left I thought)
Darius (Beats all the others for me)
Quartz Icicle (Good climbing, interesting feature and intricate/ rewarding route finding)
Deranged (Definitive Pembroke)
Out Of The Blue (1st E2 so maybe rose tinted)
Personal choice so don't flame me!
Sacred Coeur was great for the position and the Church itself. Boring climbing though.
> One day this summer I tried both of these. LW was alright, but I fell off the uninspiring, permadamp, comprehensively lichened and thus frictionless Ten Degrees North. I've tried to do routes on that buttress where everything's meant to be amazing several times now and never got started. Even after a few days dry weather, they're always damp. And they look so utterly uninspiring. I've concluded that all the hype is just some silly joke and I'm not going to go back.
You're wrong - that buttress IS amazing. You just chose a bad time for it. But you already knew that...
It's the natural line, going straight up feels artificial. vats wot I find anyway.
My favouritest single pitch ever, which happens to be E2:
First Blood at St Govan's east.
I'd opt for the Weaver at Tremadog instead of Vector.
Left Wall - straight up or left at the top - both are great
Kangaroo Wall at Wintours Leap (noting that I have yet to finish it (or start it with enough daylight).
Beowolf and Bow Wall at Bosgran
LW and Kagaroo Wall would have been mine too.
> Mizen Star
> The Brasser
> All at Fairhead, and great routes.
Is the correct answer!
Although I'll chuck Cúchulainn, Hurricane and Equinox into the mix too!
for non-Fairhead good E2s
Deep Space - Mother Careys
Mythical Monster - Huntsmans Leap
Great Central Route - Chee Tor (It's probably a bit of a Marmite one though)
> It's the natural line, going straight up feels artificial.
Indeed. And straight up is definitely not E2 anyway.
Has anyone mentioned the Strand at Gogarth yet? Has to be up there in terms of quality of line, situation etc.
Also, how about the Sun at Rhoscolyn?
Agree that Left Wall definitely has to be on the list. Also the Pillar @ Diabaig.
> Is the correct answer!
> Although I'll chuck Cúchulainn, Hurricane and Equinox into the mix too!
and scorpion - come on, someone else must have done it. borderline e3 but whatever grade it's better than all of the others mentioned (apart from cuchullain which i haven't done so can't comment on). that's not a slight on the others which are all fantastic, just scorpion's better.
> Great Central Route - Chee Tor (It's probably a bit of a Marmite one though)
no mentions of scoop wall yet? ok then, scoop wall
> and scorpion - come on, someone else must have done it.
We ran out of time and didn't do that one. On the list for when I can organise a return visit.
> hmm - it's ok but imo there are better e2s there - 2 sunspots for a start
You're probably right. I liked it because I had a big old battle on the top of it, and it's pretty much straight up the middle of the crag. I'll do 2 Sunspots next time I visit.
The ones I've done which were amazing:
The strand (fairly soft but ace)
Left Wall - generally ace
Five finger exercise
Beano Vista - such amazing rock
The Bug (Toiladh) rather than Diabaig Pillar
Lucky Strike (if still E2)
Mandarin - Houghton
> Diabaig Pillar
> Desolation Row
Them two are right top of my list. Need to go north of the border first! Looked at des row on two occasions now. Usually takes a sweaty hour to find and also usually wet and scary looking.
Usually ones to mention - strand, vector, LW etc but I'll chuck a few unmentioned ones into the mix
Chimes of freedom at mowing word, sheer pleasure on perfect rock and positions
Sacre cover - calf blaster on a must climb lump of rock with a bomber wire and finger lock to be found every inch of the way, no footholds tho!
Aardvark - technically improbable non-pumpy climbing with pretnetions of being on the main cliff
The conger is untouchably top dws a the grade
> Them two are right top of my list. Need to go north of the border first! Looked at des row on two occasions now. Usually takes a sweaty hour to find and also usually wet and scary looking.
Desolation Row is a brilliant pitch. A bit scary, but not too hard at the grade, and not slow to dry. I think I was a bit worried about wetness when I did it, but while there was loads of manky looking rock around, the whole route was dry. Possibly my favourite pitch in the SW, really big, sustained, subtle climbing, amazing intimidating setting - fantastic. The gear isn't very inspiring, but that's part of the buzz!
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