/ Belay jackets for Scottish winter climbing...

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Flatus Vetus - on 02 Nov 2012
I'm after a warm belay jacket to replace my worn out Snugpak Softie jacket. What are the current contenders for the 2012/2013 season? Warmth and reliability are my main criteria, I'm not fussed about a few extra ounces if it keeps me warm.

Thanks in advance.
In reply to Flatus Vetus: About as warm as it gets: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4444
Ronan O Keeffe on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus:

The Marmot Trient is great. Waterproof too, which would be nice for Scotland.
A medium in Marmot tops is normally snug on me so I went for the large. Got one of the best hoods of any jacket I've come across.
aldo56 - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus: Get yourself one of these for 50 from Amazon:

http://www.keela.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/249/s/belay-advance-jacket/category/15/

Synthetic Primaloft 1 insulation is ideal for Scotland's wetness.
CurlyStevo - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Ronan O Keeffe:
I wouldnt want a water proof belay jacket as it will just lock in the moisture of your damp/snowy clothes you put it on on top of
Neil Pratt - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to aldo56:

Keela doesn't appear to have a hood - if that's the case, it might make a great mid-layer, but I'm not sure I'd want it as a belay jacket!
Ronan O Keeffe on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:
That's a good point.
I wore it on and off over wet shells for a couple of days camping and on the last day just over a base layer. It didn't seem to suffer from dampness. Could be a different story on a climb where it may not have time to dry out. It is breathable, but think older gore-tex rather than newer varieties.
aldo56 - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus: True, no hood is a bit odd. I threw it over my soft shell Rab at the weekend and used the hood from the Rab. That teamed with a hat when belaying in some typical Scottish snow/rain/ice seemed to work well.
angry pirate - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus:
As no-one's mentioned it yet: Paramo Torres smock (or jacket if you want a lighter weight shell fabric). Very warm and a decent simple design. Always cheap offers online too. My smock was 70 new.
Si_Hill - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus: mountain equipment fitzroy jacket.. you wont be complaining after spending a little bit more on it.. primaloft 1, so dont matter if its wet.. taking mine to scotland for some ice climbing in late january for 5 days its bomber.
Jonay - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus:

To challenge the ME Citadel, there is the Rab Photon Belay (bigger than the normal Photon). It's cheaper too


This jacket is seriously warm, it's like a sleeping bag you can wear.

Robert Durran - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Jonay:
> There is the Rab Photon Belay (bigger than the normal Photon). >
> This jacket is seriously warm.

I'll second that. If you feel the cold it is great. I wear it over an ME Fitzroy.
davy_boy - on 02 Nov 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus: another vvote for the rab jacket mega toasty but doesnt pack down as small as others
Flatus Vetus - on 03 Nov 2012
In reply to Jonay:
> (In reply to Flatus Vetus)
>
> To challenge the ME Citadel, there is the Rab Photon Belay (bigger than the normal Photon). It's cheaper too
>
>
> This jacket is seriously warm, it's like a sleeping bag you can wear.

I thought that the Photon Belay was discontinued?

sargy - on 03 Nov 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus:

I got a Patagonia DAS Parka from an Urban Rock sale for 100- a bargain and seriously warm. Great design and an awesome hood too. It isn't Primaloft but it's still toasty.
Jonay - on 03 Nov 2012
In reply to Flatus Vetus:

Probably, places are still stocking them though.

I got mine on the cheap with Webtogs clearout. Was something like 80 or so.

for example, not the cheapest but still in apparent stock.

http://www.climbers-shop.com/9428607/products/rab_photon_belay_jacket.aspx
In reply to Si_Hill:
> taking mine to scotland for some ice climbing in late january for 5 days its bomber.

So have you actually used for winter climbing yet? And if not, how do you know it's "bomber?

Interestingly in Dan's review he pointed out that these class of jackets are quite light, perhaps not warm enough to be a belay jacket for long waits in poor weather. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4457 That's what I've found with both the TNF Redpoint Optimus and the RAB Photon. If you're not going to belaying for more than 20 minutes or so - they might be fine, but for belaying long mixed pitches you will probably want warmer
In reply to Jonay:

> To challenge the ME Citadel, there is the Rab Photon Belay (bigger than the normal Photon). It's cheaper too

No idea why, but RAB aren't making them any longer. http://rab.uk.com/products/mens-clothing/synthetic-fill.html It's a shame because RAB really know what serious climbers want.
Lamb - on 03 Nov 2012
In reply to TobyA: Are Rab starting to go down the route that Berghaus took a few years ago? i.e. producing gear mostly for the urban explorer? They ain't nearly as bad yet but there have been a few things that have made me wonder?
In reply to Lamb:
> Are Rab starting to go down the route that Berghaus took a few years ago? i.e. producing gear mostly for the urban explorer? They ain't nearly as bad yet but there have been a few things that have made me wonder?

I wouldn't think so at all, maybe a huge heavy belay jacket just doesn't sell very well? They have new items that they say are designed for ski touring, and obviously they're looking at the US market quite a lot, but they still do a lot of very technical things.

ads.ukclimbing.com
Lamb - on 03 Nov 2012
In reply to TobyA: Yes, not questioning the quality of their kit whatsoever, got a lot of their gear myself and rate it very highly, my question is possibly answered by the fact that, as you say, they are opening up their market more and also by the fact that their kit is now more popular on the high street.

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