/ Belay jackets for Scottish winter climbing...
Thanks in advance.
The Marmot Trient is great. Waterproof too, which would be nice for Scotland.
A medium in Marmot tops is normally snug on me so I went for the large. Got one of the best hoods of any jacket I've come across.
Synthetic Primaloft 1 insulation is ideal for Scotland's wetness.
I wouldnt want a water proof belay jacket as it will just lock in the moisture of your damp/snowy clothes you put it on on top of
Keela doesn't appear to have a hood - if that's the case, it might make a great mid-layer, but I'm not sure I'd want it as a belay jacket!
That's a good point.
I wore it on and off over wet shells for a couple of days camping and on the last day just over a base layer. It didn't seem to suffer from dampness. Could be a different story on a climb where it may not have time to dry out. It is breathable, but think older gore-tex rather than newer varieties.
As no-one's mentioned it yet: Paramo Torres smock (or jacket if you want a lighter weight shell fabric). Very warm and a decent simple design. Always cheap offers online too. My smock was £70 new.
To challenge the ME Citadel, there is the Rab Photon Belay (bigger than the normal Photon). It's cheaper too
This jacket is seriously warm, it's like a sleeping bag you can wear.
> This jacket is seriously warm.
I'll second that. If you feel the cold it is great. I wear it over an ME Fitzroy.
> To challenge the ME Citadel, there is the Rab Photon Belay (bigger than the normal Photon). It's cheaper too
> This jacket is seriously warm, it's like a sleeping bag you can wear.
I thought that the Photon Belay was discontinued?
I got a Patagonia DAS Parka from an Urban Rock sale for £100- a bargain and seriously warm. Great design and an awesome hood too. It isn't Primaloft but it's still toasty.
Probably, places are still stocking them though.
I got mine on the cheap with Webtogs clearout. Was something like £80 or so.
for example, not the cheapest but still in apparent stock.
So have you actually used for winter climbing yet? And if not, how do you know it's "bomber?
Interestingly in Dan's review he pointed out that these class of jackets are quite light, perhaps not warm enough to be a belay jacket for long waits in poor weather. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4457 That's what I've found with both the TNF Redpoint Optimus and the RAB Photon. If you're not going to belaying for more than 20 minutes or so - they might be fine, but for belaying long mixed pitches you will probably want warmer
No idea why, but RAB aren't making them any longer. http://rab.uk.com/products/mens-clothing/synthetic-fill.html It's a shame because RAB really know what serious climbers want.
I wouldn't think so at all, maybe a huge heavy belay jacket just doesn't sell very well? They have new items that they say are designed for ski touring, and obviously they're looking at the US market quite a lot, but they still do a lot of very technical things.
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