In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks for the stats Daniel.
Well, this is my first Fit Club entry since August - I've been climbing in the States for ten weeks so have plenty to update.
For starters, I've just had a brilliant trip, visiting so many amazing places and doing a lot of great climbing. It roughly worked out like this:
Arrive LA, get sorted, go to Tuolomne Meadows and climb some routes with assorted North Americans.
Meet Nick from Exeter, climb together for three weeks in Tuolomne, Tahoe, Yosemite and Mammoth.
Climb some more in Yosemite, mostly with Lee from Ringwood.
Get sick, leave the Valley, get better, go to Joshua Tree.
Nearly three weeks climbing in Josh.
Come home. Brrrrrrr!
My aim was to climb 5.10d and El Cap. The big disappointment of the trip was not only not to climb El Cap, but not to get on a wall at all. I was going well and probably one "training" route off doing Half Dome when I got sick in the Valley. When I got better I struggled to find a suitable partner and was finding the Valley a fairly oppressive place to be... so I abandoned the idea for this year and went cragging in the desert instead. A big shame, but with the knowledge I've gained, even just in terms of suitable training, I could probably do one in a three week trip. Never say never! Big thing learned: the right partner is essential for these kinds of routes. Going out and doing a wall with a random person is a gamble. It didn't pay off this time, but it could.
I didn't climb a 10d either! Well, I did up to 11a on bolts and 10c on gear, but even better than ticking the right number was the fact I got pretty solid on trad climbing for the first time in years, and learned to climb Californian granite (a bit). I feel this was my best achievement. Their rock is so far off from the climbing in Europe that you take a beating at first - I remember struggling on a 5.7 crack in my first week, nearly backing off it, and wondering if I knew how to climb cracks at all! And that was in Tuolomne. Yosemite was even more of a slapdown. I just couldn't do it at first.
Naturally this is pretty much par for the course - I saw a Spanish 8a climber fall off a 10b crack - and by the end of the trip I was confidently climbing much harder and moving much better, having got used to the kind of full-body movements that characterise West Coast granite climbing. One route at Josh was our warm-up, it involved some tricky moves with flared jams and stemming, and had I tried it when I first arrived I would have found it desperate. But when fully in the J-Tree groove it was definitive 5.8 and really very pleasant. I found I rarely got pumped forearms (not at my lowly level) but frequently finished a pitch panting and completely out of breath!
Other things I learned:
Camalots rock.
Ditto tape gloves.
Areas you've never heard of can be really excellent.
Have a back up itinerary in case the weather plays tricks with your plans.
The animals really will eat all your food if you're not careful. And even if they don't... well once a coyote has investigated your spaghetti, it's done for.
Cruising around LA in an SUV, listening to Jay-Z, is pretty cool.
Overall I did about 85 routes, the vast majority of them trad, ranging from 30ft to 13 pitches. Highlights were:
West Face of Daff Dome, Tuolomne.
Hermaphrodite Flake, Stately Pleasure Dome, Tuolomne.
Direct NW Face of Lembert Dome, Tuolomne.
Power Lust, Lover's Leap, Tahoe.
Black Leather, Dike Wall, Mammoth.
Sons of Liberty, Patricia Bowl, Mammoth.
Bishop's Terrace, Church Bowl, Yosemite.
East Buttress of El Cap, Yosemite.
Fisticuffs, Real Hidden Valley, Joshua Tree.
Bird of Fire, Isles in the Sky, Joshua Tree.
Illusion Dweller, Real Hidden Valley, Joshua Tree.
Over this week I'll be putting pictures up both here and on my blog, will put some links up when I do.
I have some clear ideas about the climbing I want to do in 2013, but haven't sorted out any short/medium term goals or training yet. It's just too soon, plus one of my elbows feels a bit sore. It'll probably be just running and yoga for a few weeks.
One final word: if you're ever thinking about taking some time off for a proper extended climbing trip - do it! Do it as soon as you can! You won't regret it, I promise you.