/ Grit E2s to get to E3

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Jackwd - on 04 Nov 2012
Just after a bit of a ticklist to get into E3 territory. I don't mind taking big falls as long as I wont hit the floor and i'm more of a delicate climber than a thuggish one. Any recommendations?
Sean_J - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Jackwd: Do Elegy at the Roaches - then go and do Smear Test right afterwards
Jon Stewart - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Jackwd:

I'd just crack on with Time for Tea and San Melas. Both great routes, a bit fluttery but pretty much safe, and way easier than some desperate top-end E2. After those two, I struggle to recommend grit E3s 'cause all the ones I can do involve the risk of a groundfall. Maybe Dextrous Hare, if you trust the gear OK, a nice fairly soft route. And Exit, which is a bit bold but has a protected crux (so possibly fair at E2, but then I did it in perfect conditions so it might actually be desperate the rest of the time).

For 'too hard for E2' I would suggest Easy Picking and Handrail, but they won't necessarily help you climb E3.

I found getting from E2 to E3 very hard on grit, and basically just plumped for other rock types to climb E3 on. Basically, E3 5c usually involves some terrible ankle-snapping risk and 6a on grit is generally unfathomable. I've pretty much given up on grit E3 now, so many of them are just horrible, annoying routes which are bound to end up in an extended ledge-standing episode. But then that's just grit really, isn't it?
alasdair19 on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Jackwd: dextrous hare is safe but pumpy to place. Jet runner is safe and u can use the arete all the way if open handed pockets arent your thing. Teli if tall ish
Si dH - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Jackwd:
Nothing I can think of at tough e2 that is delicate and not strenny, but safe. If you allow routes that are pumpy without being too thuggy then things like fern hill, ffe, billy whizz (? not done), regent st, black hawk bastion, etc? Maybe Suspense might suit you.

None of these are e3 but if you onsight them all easily you can have the confidence to one...
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Al Evans on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to alasdair19: I think Dextrous Hare was the last grit E3 I ever led, the climbing was OK but I inadvertently kicked my main gear out as I went for the top, there wasn't any chance of stopping, just go for it, my second shat herself.

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