/ Bouldering mats - damaging the future of climbing?
Some people were doing some nice moves and it was all very relaxed and sociable. There was also plenty of room on the crags for crustys like myself. But on both occasions hardly an extreme route was being attempted and when they were, it was by an over 50.
I was tempted to buy a mat before this summer. I thought I could see the advantage of improving my power moves. But not now. They are clearly the equivalent of an outdoor double divan. Comfortable, soft cushions expunging the desire of youth to climb hard.
Please boulderers, next time you head out, leave it behind. Take a rope instead. You will enjoy it more.
Sorry for the rant. I'm dying with flu and need to lie down again; on my tatami futon.
I find it hard enough to climb with a rucsac, so a bouldering mat would be ridiculous.
Far better to leave it at the bottom.
> I find it hard enough to climb with a rucsac, so a bouldering mat would be ridiculous.
> Far better to leave it at the bottom.
It lowers the E grade too, having all that padding strapped to your back
You're either a troll or don't understand bouldering.Maybe both.
> Please boulderers, next time you head out, leave it behind. Take a rope instead. You will enjoy it more.
Quite right. You tell 'em what they'll enjoy. None of this namby-pamby making their own mind up nonsense.
Any yet you used to do this:
I know which is more ethically acceptable to the majority of the climbing world.
Hope you're feeling better.
> Jeez.I know, I shouldn't have bitten.I'm having a bad day.
A bouldering mat is handy, it saves my knees for those higher problems, it keeps my feet clean & dry when the ground is wet which seems to be just about evertime i go out lately & some routes you just would rather not solo so a mat can open them up if you choose to use it. Im sure if mats were available in the 70's climbers would have used them. I have heard of people using car seats below routes back in the day!
> Any yet you used to do this:
> I know which is more ethically acceptable to the majority of the climbing world.
I agree, How on earth can he show his face having worn a matching Norwegian style wooly jumper and glove ensamble like that... One step away from lycra tights in my book.
"expunging the desire of youth to climb hard".
You have a strange definition of hard. Bouldering is all about hard moves and less about danger. You should have said something like "expunging the desire of youth to climb bold routes". In my opinion trad climbing expunges the desire to climb hard because the danger aspect limits the difficulty of moves you'd be willing to do.
I think i forgot to put the ;0) at the end of my post. Firmly tongue in cheek - i am hoping along the same lines of his post.
Yes, dry tooling.
The grit is for bouldering, the routes are crap in comparison to real cliffs like those found in wales, the lakes and even on the lime...malham and high tor for example.
Climbing a trad route that is 6m is rubbish. I would far rather boulder and save my gear for real extreme routes, those that actually feel like routes.
I'm no crusty, but I do agree that there's something about climbing with a rope that makes it more enjoyable. Maybe it's the craft of it, or the exposure, or the fact that you have to concentrate for a long time.
I was at Burbage at the weekend and was intially bouldering and getting rather bored. Not many in the group were keen on trad becasue it was a bit chilly. I finally got on Amazon crack and even though it's only a 10m HS, it just felt like proper climbing.
I disagree (partly). There are some great routes on grit that are 20m plus if you seek them out. Whilst not very big compared to mountain routes, you still get a sense of committment and involvement. I'll agree with you on 6m routes - hardly worth the time of racking up and everything.
Back from my nap.
Ah, well, that was a long time ago, and it wasn't a very popular route.
Don't get me wrong I know some people use bouldering mats well but I haven't seen many examples out there. Most are really only doing sit down starts and 8 ft problems.
There are some excellent climbers operating at the top of the game and even if I was good enough, I wouldn't have the bottle to try the likes of Gaia, even with 6 mats. But, they are a select few.
Thanks for the comments about the jumper. It reminds me not to wear mine in public anymore. I wondered what all those boulderers were laughing at while gibbered up Overhanging groove.
Coming from someone who has only ever led E1 that's quite funny...
If you want to go bouldering, Almscliff and the Roaches are two of the best crags in the country.
If you want to climb easy trad (say VS and below), Roaches is also one of the best crags in the country, and Almscliff certainly in the top 20%.
If you want to climb harder trad (say above E3), they are both fairly rubbish when you look at the broader picture across the UK. Grit in general is not great for regular trad onsighting above about E2.
This might all prejudice your observations a bit...
You're right, toproping protectable low in the grade E1s at Almscliff is much more extreme than bouldering.
It started raining. It wasn't my idea. I did try an E4 as well. OK. Fair cop.
Excuses, excuses... ;-)
Fwiw I'm under 50, I mostly climb trad (bouldering scares me!) and even manage the odd extreme. Most of the people I climb with are the same. I think you just need to go to different grit crags - the ones you've cited are well known for their bouldering popularity!
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