/ belay plate
If you have it you could try a second identical HMS back to back with your usual one, that will give her a lot more control.
Yes, definitely. The ATC in particular is quite a slick device, and I have had trouble with skinny ropes in mine. Using other devices with grippy bits (VCPro, ATC Pro and Reverso 3) definitely makes a difference for me.
JK's suggestion is also a valid option.
Yeah, you just use two similar sized krabs back to back clipping the rope/harness with both.
I've only tried a couple of the modern grooved devices: One I got for my girlfriend (Red, probably BD or maybe DMM - Sorry, useless info!) when she started which is very nice and progressive. The other some ghastly stainless steel junk (possibly also DMM) belonging to a friend who presumably found it in a xmas cracker.
Personally I use an old (unsprung) Sticht plate for half ropes and where weight matters, otherwise I us use a GriGri. In both cases it's the powerful initial bite that I like, neither lower brilliantly with out a bit of practice but that's secondary.
The Metolius BRD is the most powerful plate followed by the ATC XP and the Reverso. They are all around 10-15% more powerful than an ATC or bug. If you add another karabiner (both clipped into the belay loop on the harness you get about another 20%.
Before you use two karabiners check the underside of the slots is smoothly rounded, we destroyed a rope because of this when we were testing with a model which had sharp corners there.
I would second the BRD from Metolius. It's the one my wife and I use (4 months of gym climbing) and it is pretty "grabby" (people who've borrowed it comment on that). Overally I would recommend it, though I wonder if it'll be awkward when we start lead climbing.
Other benefits: it's a nice simple design, very solid, and very effective.
I'd be interested to know what model this is.
> I'd be interested to know what model this is.
No doubt, but I´m not saying. All belay plates wear and looking at the condition of the underside in combination with where using two krabs forces the rope is important, irrespective of the age or manufacturer.
Elsewhere on the site
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
A fantastically versatile little pack; whether out running in the hills, hitting the trails on the bike or just running for the... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more