/ Annual goals?
and what is your next years target?
Me, I wanted to complete all my previous Did Not Finishes, and lead all climbs that I had only top roped in the past, with the exception of 3 routes, I am close to completion.
Next year I want climb more routes than this year and do more than 90% new routes. Hopefully breaking into E2 before 2014.
I reached my goal of on sighting my first E3 to the last climb of the year (so far). Hopefully this weekend I can get out and get some more under my belt. Spent most the year injuring my self which delayed me some what.
Goals for next year:
get on all the Classic E3s in the Mournes/Fairhead.
Face Value is a rather Ambitious goal of mine for next year all being well.
I do set myself goals, but as I discovered this year my climbing went in a direction that was unexpected with me hitting good grades in Sport rather than trad.
I wanted to lead at least 10 E1s and I did 13 so I can't grumble.
Looking back at a blog post from last December, my stated goals for this year were:
1) Travel a bit more - hopefully to Lundy, Skye, Lofoten, Font, Fairhead and maybe a few other places.
Been to Lundy, Skye and Lofoten, so I'll count that as a yes.
2) Get some winter climbing done.
Hmm. I managed 4 routes. Which was 4 more than in 2011, but not really what I was hoping for.
3) Lead some E2s.
Didn't think this was going to happen, until I pulled my finger out a bit and led 3 last month.
4) Actually get a bit fitter instead of just thinking about it.
5) Climb more in the Lake District.
Managed a couple of brilliant days on White Ghyll, and visited Gimmer, Gouther and Shepherd's but that was it, so no.
6) Climb on Cloggy.
No. I spent the one week of sunny weather sitting in my attic revising and generally sulking about the injustice of it all. Bah.
7) Actually solo 100 routes in a day.
No. I've hardly done any soloing this year. Oh well, next year...
8) Climb more on slate and culm.
No. A grand total of 0 routes on either this year.
9) Actually get round to doing Tower Face at Stanage and Scavenger at Gogarth.
Well I did Tower Face, but not Scavenger (although I did do Emulator instead, which was a suitable consolation).
10) Climb the equivalent vertical height of Everest.
I'm on 8426m at the moment, so it isn't impossible. I'll need to do less bouldering and more easy soloing though if it's going to happen.
So 2.5/10, which doesn't sound very good. But I've had one of my best ever years climbing, so I'll not lose too much sleep over it!
Wanted to lead a couple of E1s clean before the year was over, done 1 (doesn't really count as it was a 2m detour to the side of an HVS I had already done, and felt same as the HVS- "easiest E1 on grit" apparently)
so I have really only got one more chance, and that is to crush at Tremadog the weekend after next. Maybe the end of the year looming will force me to confront something nice and hard.
Next year? Same I guess. get on some E1s, maybe even an E2 or two. I really tend to do 6 month goals rather than yearly, tho I have no idea why :)
Climb 1000 routes in a year-
I'm up to about 985 so should easily do this (I only include leads, solos and sent boulder problems, and obviously no repeats or seconds).
Get solid at E2-
Still don't feel solid but have led over 30, not scared of them now anyway.
Done a few soft ones and even a couple of soft E4's including Calvary.
Climb in the mountains as much as possible-
Massive failure here but next year I'm going to really go for it, need to get to gogarth especially.
And to everyone who hasn't made there goals, there's still time :)
Bit of a disaster, to be honest. Injured myself quite badly last December, except it didn't hurt much at the time, so didn't really notice, just thought I'd tweaked something.
Then spent most of the year wondering why every time I tried something hard my shoulder started hurting, then going to the doctor, then physio, then finally a consultant, then an operating theatre to have my shoulder nailed back together. 16 days until this sling comes off and life can begin again...
one of my climbing partners wanted to climb every top 50 limestone route. still not done.
I was aiming to get at least one route led every month - I've already missed that on accounts of the wet spring.
I was hoping to get solid on HS and onto the odd VS... hmmm, well, I'm about half a grade behind there but that's not bad.
I was hoping to get on lots of big multipitch mountain routes - got onto a few, which isn't bad considering the weather.
So yeah, not too dissatisfied.
but had we had a little less wet this year would've been busy. Grit was pretty midgy this year also, probably due to humid conditions.
Next year i hope for a drier season and windier at least enough yo bliw away those pesky midges
I wanted to do lots of the Gogarth E3s. I did one (Assassin) or maybe one and a half (the half is Creeping Lemma - E2.5). But I did do some of the adventurous E2s, including Red Wall and Flytrap, and the latter was way the hardest route I've ever done (should be regraded E3 5c IMO since there's no peg for the crux as suggested by the recent guidebook and while it could conceivably be 5b when dry that must be pretty rare...compared to The Moon it's absurd to have it a grade easier given that it's soooo much harder and bolder and more serious and more scary and more adventurous).
I wanted to get through the Peak Limestone E3s like Mad Dogs, Dragonflight, Splintered Perspex, and the High Tor ones. Did a couple (Black Grub, which doesn't count since it's f6b and Perseus which definitely does count despite being easier than Darius). Did Scoop Wall too which was a disappointing f6b, one of the most overhyped routes anywhere. I intended to do some Peak and Yorkshire sport climbing as training but that was consistently piss-wet through so I didn't do a single route. Considering that I didn't climb indoors either, it's hardly surprising that I got worse instead of better, despite not having a job all summer.
I wanted to climb E3 6a regularly and do a first E4 at Lower Sharpnose. A resounding fail on those. Plus I wanted to do some bold grit routes this Autumn (Strangler, Brush Off) as I had a good Autumn last year on the Archangel and stuff, but that's not going to happen either since I'm not climbing anywhere near as well.
I did manage to do Saxon on Scafell though, which is a route I've wanted to do for years, which makes up for much of the disappointment of the atrociously wet summer.
All in all, still a great year since I climbed some brilliant routes in the most fantastic places (Lakes, Cornwall, NW Scotland, Gogarth) but the weather badly put pay to doing the routes I really wanted to do and getting a bit better at trad climbing.
My goal for 2012 (almost gone) was to move up my sports climbing grade a little and translate that back into trad to finally get solid at E2 and tick some of the big E2 ticks in N Wales (Vector, Left Wall and the like). Only ever tickled the surface of E2 before with a handful of routes that suited my style at the time (a few years ago now).
I started the season well but unfortunately I tore a muscle in by abdomen in early May which brought a sudden stop to everything for almost exactly 4 months. I'm back now but still battling injury etc.
Anyway, if I can overcome injury woes properly, my goal remains the same. Train climbing fitness over the winter (and probably some grit if I can re-inspire myself about the stuff), get some solid time on the rock early season, probably an early season sports climbing trip, then go roaring into next summer season ready for those big E2's.
Then there's reality.... But a man has to have a plan :)
Easily done the E1s
Have ticked about 9 E2 leads, although I was definitely cherry-picking the easier end of the grade!
Much to my amazement, managed to flash 7a, with a friend yelling up essential beta. Also redpointed another 7a and a 7a+. Again, the 7as were cherry picked to play to my strengths, but would seem a bit of a hiding to nowhere to try to target a route that doesn't when trying to break into a new grade.
So overall I should be pretty happy, but do feel incredibly frustrated at the number of times weather/work/family seem to have conspired to stop me getting out. Maybe I'm just being grumpy....
"10) Climb the equivalent vertical height of Everest.
I'm on 8426m at the moment, so it isn't impossible. I'll need to do less bouldering and more easy soloing though if it's going to happen."
Kinda curious as to how you keep track of this? Tried a couple of years ago and gave up pretty quickly TBH.
Ticked a bunch of routes which have been on my to do list for many years - Out of the Blue, Four for Texas, Bow Wall, NW Passage, Aardvark, Five Finger Exercise, Tudor Rose, Strongbow
Visited Cloggy for first time in 7ys, no big E2 ticks though
Near death experience on Pull My Daisy. Since removed it from the to do list.
My annual week long August roadtrip with my mate Jim was much more of a washout this year.
Climbed nothing harder than E2, but feeling pretty steady at the grade and happy I can operate there while take big gaps (10wks in mid-summer!) off rock climbing and only climbing once a week indoors.
Next year I will do a first non-grit E3 - Dervish and the obvious candidates at Pembroke will get led.
That's worthwhile beta to file away about Flytrap, that one is/was on my ever-expanding Gogarth list. What's assasin like?
My year has panned out pretty well really, despite a disastrously wet July. Apart from that I don't seem to have suffered so much with conditions as others seem to.
After a year last year where basically I didn't trad climb at all I managed to get enough miles in to start putting that extra sport fitness into use on trad - in 2011 I was fitter than before but had had so little trad mileage I just couldn't apply it. So I managed to clock up about a dozen E2s and a half dozen or so E3s. Got back onto Red Wall again for some classic ledge shuffling fun on Wendigo, and managed some stuff like Guillotine, Diamond Smiles and a bunch of other classic stuff too. Got quite lazy in some ways in that I've been fit enough to hang around and place gear in pumpy places so could probably do with improving my efficiency somewhat - mid crux isn't always the best place to hang for 10 minutes fiddling with wires! Getting out there and getting on an E4 is still on the cards if I can get the time in the remainder of this year.
I've managed to achieve my big sport goal for the year which was a 7c+ redpoint pyramid, now slightly overfull which is even better. I've managed to onsight a 7a+ and a few 7as (some of the latter at Buoux no less), and have also had the opportunity to get a lot of broadening of my experience of different styles of rock by virtue of some excellent foreign trips where I've actually vaguely learnt how to climb tufas a bit better and things like that.
And progress towards my current big goal of 8a before 30 has gone well, this year was meant to be the year of 7c+ and it was, and I've also made a good start on the 8a pyramid and managed to get 3 sessions on an 8a, and have done it in 3 sections.
And I've still got a few weeks of unemployment left, and a Christmas sport trip, so I'm sure there's plenty left to come.
1. Lead my first HVS. Pass (4)
2. Lead most of the classic VS's at Stanage. Pass.
3. Lead some classic VS's in N Wales and the Lakes. Fail
4. Do a big route on Ben Nevis. Pass (Observatory Ridge)
5. Do a big Alpine rock route. Pass (Aiguille Dibona & Orage d'Etoiles)
6. Do a big Alpine snow peak. Fail.
7. Do 30 Munros in winter conditions. Probable Fail (10).
8. Do 100 Munros. Probable Fail (62).
4/8 Could do better!
"Did Scoop Wall too which was a disappointing f6b"
I didn't think it felt 6b to second, I found the top desperate!
My year has been absolutely ace, my goals were pretty vague at the start of the year but I guess they included:
Go to lots of new areas in the UK: Scotland, Cornwall, Lundy especially (I'm sure that there were some others).
I did this:
Lead some really ace E1s and E2s:
I definitely did this, highlights were:
Five finger exercise
wall street (Neist)
and probably most of all redspeed on Lundy.
My year has been generally ace, all it needs to finish is an attempt at Billy Whizz. Regent st can be left until millstone becomes warm and pleasant again...
Best year of climbing so far I reckon.
I'm not sure I set myself any goals for this year, if I did they obviously weren't very meaningful to me! Despite not climbing very much at all and putting on a stone I've had a reasonably good year in climbing and more general terms.
Sport (uk) flash improved (Angel Delight)
Sport redpoint improved (Smouldering Globules of Lust)
Bouldering grade improved (Demon Wall Roof)
Finally my first Font Ft6!
Learned to soar
Happy at home
Next year: Who knows. I'm tentatively hoping I'll be able to keep my fingers working, get motivated and maybe get lucky on an 8a. I'd also like to get back out into the hills a bit more see if I can't remember how a cam works.
Benefit of being new to the sport is fairly easy targets!
1. Onsight 6b.
2. Learn trad.
3. Not get injured.
1. Onsighted a short 6b in El Chorro in Sept. Soft for the grade perhaps but I'll take it!
2. Yep. Flashed VS.
3. A2 pulley resulted in 1 month downtime.
1. Redpoint 7a.
2. Onsight E1.
3. Not get injured.
"all it needs to finish is an onsight of Billy Whizz" - get on it quick before that crack starts seeping
I had more of a crags to visit list than anything else, rather than specific routes.
Tremadoc -yes, had a day here
High Tor - not really, did one route before it got too hot
Black Crag (Borrowdale) yes
Scafell no, though maybe if it comes into winter nick in December
Pembroke, yes, had 6 days here and was really impressed.
Do lots of sport climbing - sort of, I did some and onsighted 6b. Hopefully redpoint more next year
Get back up to leading E1, sort of, could do better
Lead HVS: tick x2
Consolidate VS Lead: x15
i'd say i am now a very steady VS4b lead which i'm happy with.
next year though is to lead an E1 and consolidate HVS with a lead of The Sloth.
> "Did Scoop Wall too which was a disappointing f6b"
> I didn't think it felt 6b to second, I found the top desperate!
I think you'd cruise it now, I think you might have been having a weak day. It's easier than FFE I think, and of course nowhere near as good.
> That's worthwhile beta to file away about Flytrap, that one is/was on my ever-expanding Gogarth list. What's assasin like?
There's an evil part of me that wants to keep quiet about horrors encountered in the Flytrap, since it's kind of the ultimate in hilarious sandbag, given the way the tide completely cuts off escape and the consequential stories of nights spent in the cave...the grade and the non-existent peg are somewhat in keeping with the name.
The Assassin is absolutely brilliant. The initial crack has a hard move and isn't that straightforward to protect, and the crux pitch is absolutely fantastic wall climbing. Goes through bulges on good holds with spaced gear (but nothing dramatic) for a while, then reaches a climax on the headwall. Placing the crucial gear is hard, but there are several bits if you can get it - I went for a minimum amount but I trusted it. No desperate moves, just a great sustained sequence in an incredibly exposed situation. Safe and not hard climbing, so low in the grade (but harder than The Moon and Kalahari). One of the best routes I've ever done - can't wait to get on more Main Cliff classics, looking forward to the spring already.
> Ticked a bunch of routes which have been on my to do list for many years - Out of the Blue, Four for Texas, Bow Wall, NW Passage, Aardvark, Five Finger Exercise, Tudor Rose, Strongbow
Some crackers in there.
I would suggest that with Aardvark, you've already done one, but that's just my opinion.
I'm an incredibly tedious human being and I have a super-sexy spreadsheet which tells me these things. Then again it also predicts I'm going to be comfortably leading E10 by 2020, so it doesn't know everything.
Oi, youth, it's Buena Vista, not Beano Vista!
Well, I think with that recommendation it's hard not to add it to the list! I'm going to need to spend a solid month at Gogarth at some point to clear this list...
They were - " finish the ultra, get a week in the Alps and climb HVS."
I finished, came 111th out of 114 the ultra. Had a good week's climbing in the Alps, did 3 4000M peaks. Did little/no climbing tho. I did second (onsight) some 6a routes however, so my climbing did improve a bit. So the HVS thing is doable, but unlikely to be this year.
Do ok an the ultras I've got planned (i.e don't nearly come last, anything outside of the last 20 or so would be good eg 80th out of 100 or better) or about 10 hours for a 40 miler.
If I get up to 7a, then doing some E1/2s would be nice.
If I manage them, I'll hopefully loose a decent amount of weight on the way.
A little disappointed at some aspects
Get to some big new cliffs in Scotland or elsewhere. Nope, had a baby in my time off. Only trips were Tremadog and Lakes weekends.
Do some sport on proper cliffs (not Horseshoe). Just about, but weather was shit in July although I flashed a 6b
Onsight the Rasp. No - poor effort
Onsight E3. 3 of them. Long John's Slab, Parallel Piped and Telli, which I now think of as easily the hardest and best (but still not that good).
Onsight more extremes outside the Peak. A few including an E2
Overall, not bad considering I've got two kids under 3 now. I'm glad people have reminded me that the weather was awful as it means it wasn't all my family's fault. Next year something big and extreme on the Shelter Stone or Cloggy or the Ben or Gogarth or Skye or...
Im pretty pleased with this year. I achieved my sport climbing goals of redpointing 7c and onsighting 7a; really chuffed with both of those.
Trad-wise I managed two classic e3s onsight, Foil and Robert Brown, that were both amazing.
Only slight disappointment was lack of bouldering progression.
Aims this year are font 7b, have an ace trip to Font itself, tick f7c in ceuse and do a bunch more e3s...maybe an e4?
" I'm an incredibly tedious human being."
I can vouch for this...
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