/ Is this safe?

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r0x0r.wolfo - on 14 Nov 2012
Passed a few bolts like this the other day, the second took the picture!

http://s12.postimage.org/bw4ug7gy5/bolt2.jpg
andyb211 - on 14 Nov 2012
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo: completely 100% safe, just don't fall on it!!!! or load it in any way bshape or form, numpty post!
jon on 14 Nov 2012
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

I think they're called Star Dryvins or something like that. Their strength seems to vary a lot. Better than nothing, though. Where was it?
jon on 14 Nov 2012
Jonathan Emett - on 14 Nov 2012
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:
I've clipped worse - but not fallen on them.

Thanks to jon for the info.

andyb211, wtf? The OP was a reasonable question.
jkarran - on 14 Nov 2012
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

Maybe.
andyb211 - on 14 Nov 2012
In reply to Jonathan Emett: WTF! What do you mean wtf Look at the F'ing picture! Its about as safe as asda smart price condoms!!!! OP should get back under his bridge with 0/10 for that one.
tony on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to jon:

The American Safe Climbing Association? I'm surprised that ever got off the ground.
metal arms on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to andyb211:
> (In reply to Jonathan Emett) WTF! What do you mean wtf Look at the F'ing picture!

I wish my eyesight was as good as yours to be able to tell that it is a sleeve and nail bolt, with a low shear strength from the picture.

The OP was entirely reasonable, I'd have asked what type of bolt it was if I'd encountered it.
Alun - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to andyb211:
It was absolutely not a numpty post by the OP, not everybody has your vast experience and flawless judgement to count on.

For the record, I wouldn't trust that bolt very much either, but I have rested (very gingerly) on much worse than it (according to appearances) in the past.
climber david - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo:

is it just me or does it look as if it has a crack in the top right around the bolt hole as well?
mariechen - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to climber david:

Yeah, I thought that too...
tommycoopersghost on 15 Nov 2012
No! It'll make you go blind!
jimtitt - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tony:
> (In reply to jon)
> [...]
>
> The American Safe Climbing Association? I'm surprised that ever got off the ground.

An active and progressive organisation that has done a huge amount to replace all the dodgy rubbish the Americans have placed over the years, including the somewhat questionable StarDrives that are illustrated.
Its their annual congress this weekend which is why Im posting from a motel in Las Vegas. There is more going on than you probably realise in the world of bolting!
jon on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to tony:

I'd echo what Jim has said. ASCA sponsors bolt replacement strictly on a bolt for bolt basis. As far as possible the old bolts are removed and the original holes drilled out and re-used. Out of interest, take a look at some of Clint Cummins SuperTopo threads on the subject. Two I can think of detail the re-bolting of the Yosemite routes Hall of Mirrors on the Apron and another long route on Middle Cathedral - maybe Space Babble? He documents with photos the removal and replacement of each bolt. As it's Yosemite, all the drilling has to be done by hand. Next time you clip any bolts in yosemite, look out for the ASCA stamp on the hanger.
krikoman - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to r0x0r.wolfo: Only if you intend using it for a hanging belay with a party of 3 or more, otherwise I'd stear well clear.
jon on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to jon:

Here, look at this: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hall-of-Mirrors-rebolting-October-30-2011/t11249n.html As far as I remember, this trip report just deals with the intial/part re-bolting, ie replacing one of the bolts on each belay thus making the anchors safe for the second and final round. Given a power drill, of course, (banned in the park) they'd have been able to easily complete this in a day.
jon on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to jon:

And here's the Space Babble one. Just take a look at the old bolts that he's taking out. Having belayed off these things in the past, I find the photos quite sobering.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=617625&msg=617625#msg617625
ads.ukclimbing.com
In reply to jon:

That's a great job those guys are doing.

The approach to Hall of Mirrors looked a right gripper!


Chris

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