/ Is this axe FUBAR'd?

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jhw - on 15 Nov 2012
Chipped deeply while removing a peg :(

Thanks!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57219258@N02/8187073125/
lithos on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw:

yeah totally - send it to me for safe disposal :-)
Andrew Wilson - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw:
Looks like fairly standard wear and tear for mixed climbing. You should see the state of my vipers. It was heartbreaking the first couple of times I torqued on the shafts but I'm over it now.
I would not worry from what I can see in the photo.

Andy
Slugain Howff - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw:


Not remotely. It's an axe not a fechin' Mont Blanc fountain pen......
CurlyStevo - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw: you wanna see my old style quarks. That said im disapointed to see the petzl head metal is still on the soft side...
jhw - on 15 Nov 2012
I guess it's better to be soft rather than brittle. Thanks. I was beasting them at Saltdean last weekend in this condition and am still here. If they snap, I'll post from the hospital!
mike kann - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw: snap? Hahahaha... You are taking the piss aren't you? C-, must try harder.... You've got awful lot of metal to remove befor they snap. I know what with being 25 you must be very, very strong, but I'd like to see you give it a go ;)
Dugg - on 15 Nov 2012
In reply to Andrew Wilson:

You mention torquing on the shafts. How do you think an axe with a carbon fibre shaft, like the cobra, would hold up to this
Mark020 - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to mike kann:
You laugh but I snapped my fusion half way up a pitch - I see the funny side now...

Climbing the remainder of the pitch with one and a half tools cause you've left suspect gear and a traverse you can't reverse in your wake, not so funny at the time!!
CurlyStevo - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw:
> I guess it's better to be soft rather than brittle. Thanks. I was beasting them at Saltdean last weekend in this condition and am still here. If they snap, I'll post from the hospital!

the metal in the head of most other axes (eg flys) doesnt seem too brittle but doesnt get damaged like this. I think the metal petzl are using is a bit soft for mixed climbing.
mike kann - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to Mark020: so where did you snap the tool? At the head? Or in the tube? I ask because I can see how a badly damage tube on a cold day could snap. Especially if you're 25 and v'ry v'ry strong...
mkean - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw:
No it is not FUBAR, I can quite easily identify it so it isn't "...Beyond All Recognition".

;-)
In reply to mike kann:
> I can see how a badly damage tube on a cold day could snap.

A number of people have broken the old Fusions as I remember. I think Ian Parnell might have IIRC. Whoever it was got a nasty face bash as a result. A friend of friend broke both his Cobras in two days, but my mate said he was bizarrely hard on his gear because he borrowed my friends Quarks for the rest of the holiday and they came back all mangled looking!
CurlyStevo - on 16 Nov 2012
In reply to TobyA:
My quarks are looking well bashed up but they are getting on to be 8 years old and they were my first tools, so I guess I'd have been more clumsey.
jhw - on 17 Nov 2012
Interesting comments all. Thanks.
tom290483 - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply to mike kann:

Toby is right Parnell has defo snapped an axe and I personally have bent the head of a fusion2.
Andrew Wilson - on 17 Nov 2012
In reply Dugg:
If it is T rated I suppose you should be able to trust it but I have visions of carbon fibre shafts getting mashed up fairly easily. I think that is the only reason I have vipers rather than the "nicer" cobras.
Andy
jimjimjim on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw:Not fubar but i'd take a file to it to smooth it off a bit though
Misha - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw:
I've had Cobras for a few years and they've held up pretty well, though I've never done any powerful torquing on the shaft. While dry tooling today I fell off and dropped one of them onto rocks from about 6 - 8 metres up and it was fine. Wouldn't want to do that too often though (think it's the first time I've dropped a tool).
jhw - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to jimjimjim:

good call - thanks
jim hughes - on 18 Nov 2012
ads.ukclimbing.com
Tim_C7 - on 18 Nov 2012
In reply to jhw: Would agree with JimJimJim, would consider a file to smooth out the damage, particularly at the back, but wouldn't worry toooo much.

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