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Topic - What causes finger tendon tweaks?

Ramblin dave - on 20 Nov 2012
I seem to spend a lot of my time suffering from slightly tweaked finger tendons, or climbing a bit half-arsedly because I'm "being a bit careful with my tendons." I'd quite like to reduce the amount that this happens.

I can see a whole load of intuitively plausible causes of tweaked tendons, eg:
* not warming up fingers properly
* too much force on the fingers on a single occasion eg an uncontrolled lunge for a small hold
* not enough rest between fingery routes
* too many fingery routes in a session
* not enough rest between sessions

but if I avoided all of these then I'd turn up for the wall once a fortnight, warm up for an hour, do one easy slab route, rest for half an hour, warm up again, do another easy slab route, warm down and go home, and wouldn't actually get much climbing done.

So how can I avoid dodgy tendons while still actually doing a decent amount of meaty climbing and getting stronger?

FWIW I mostly boulder (because that's all there is at my local wall) and seem to climb at about V1 to V4 (depending on how the wall chooses to interpret low V grades) or 6bish when I'm doing routes.
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