/ Good Coach for Trad Grade Pushing

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Pinged - on 21 Nov 2012
I am fairly new to Trad climbing (3-4 months) and have lead up to S on grit and HS on limestone....I now want to push my grade as much as I can. Can anyone recommmend a good coach who can help me do this? Im based in Manchester so someone in Peaks/N.Wales would be great.

Theres plenty to look at online, just wondering if anyone has used someone they can recommend...many thanks
Monk - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ:

What aspects of trad climbing do you need to work on to improve? I'm asking as with such a limited amount of experience on trad, you may be looking for an instructor (to teach and inspire confidence in gear placement and tricks of trad) rather than a coach (more the physical and mental side of performance).
shark - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ:

Adrian Berry has a good track record in getting climbers to push their trad grade and is based in Sheffield (I think) positiveclimbing.com
Pinged - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Monk:

Thats a great question!! In the 3-4 months ive been leading trad Ive probably lead 30-40 routes...been out every weekend and 2-3 eves a week in late summer - so yes, my experience is limited. My climbing partners are great at giving me advice on placement and ropework etc so I suppose is confidence and technique to improve how I climb.

I'm not a worrrier about placement and I'm happy to climb above my gear...its the 'I cant do the next move' I'd like to tackle
GridNorth - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ: I'm not convinced that you really need "coaching" at your level. Much better to just get the mileage in and concentrate on making the best use of your feet and not your arms.
seankenny - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ:
> its the 'I cant do the next move' I'd like to tackle

Maybe try a bit of bouldering now the weather is chilly?
Fiend - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ:

Not coaching and not about grade pushing, but this might help:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2648
shark - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to GridNorth:
> (In reply to PFWJ) I'm not convinced that you really need "coaching" at your level. Much better to just get the mileage in and concentrate on making the best use of your feet and not your arms.



What do you mean by "need"?

Do you mean you don't think that a coach wouldn't get results and if so based on what?

In other sports people don't bat an eyelid at getting performance coaching as a novice. Climbers are much more narrow minded.





dave frost - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ: I will definitely second adrian berry. I think it would be a great idea to get some coaching early on, if only to point you in a good direction for improvement.

Cheers
Dave
Pinged - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ:

Thanks for all suggestions so far. Understand that some folks may think coaching right now may be a little premature, but why not eh? Cant do any harm.

I'll give Adrian a knock and see whats what...thanks again
GridNorth - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to shark: No I am sure that a coach would get some positive results I just don't think that it would be money well spent, given the OP's experience.
deacondeacon - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ:

As others have said Adrian Berry. Brilliant coach, tells you exactly what you need to know and how to go about it.
Coaching from early on in your climbing career is a great idea, and will do wonders for your climbing.
Stone Muppet - on 21 Nov 2012
I think people baulk at the idea of coaching at 'S' level because coaching is a pretty recent thing in climbing really. Most of us learned without a coach because almost nobody was doing that job ten years ago. Even now it's a very niche thing, due to the high cost I imagine!

So on the one hand most people here will have learned how to climb up to E1 or so by just going climbing with others who are capable of it (they're not in short supply) or even adventuring up the grades with partners of the same level as themselves.

On the other hand I'm sure a good coach will help you a lot too and maybe if I'd had that early on (or at all) I'd be a more confident climber now! So if you're keen and you can afford it then why not.

I too have heard good things about Adrian btw.
Stone Muppet - on 21 Nov 2012
Careful though, you may end up as a member of a new generation of climbers who through coaching manage to avoid bad habits early on... and then the rest of us will get annoyed ;-)
Pinged - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Stone Muppet:

Hahaha perish the thought!!
GridNorth - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Stone Muppet: I have to admit that I tend to regale at the commercialisation of climbing but then I'm from a different generation. I'm also a little uneasy about this obsession with grades. We always wanted to climb harder but pay for it, never. Perhaps it's time my generation just shut up and let everyone get on with what they want, after all it doesn't affect me.
StuartG - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ:
Try Tom Greenall at the Climbing Works. He specialises in working with climbers at all levels of ability and experience, particularly lower levels.

If you can get over there, he runs an Adult Improvers session, which I think is on a Wednesday. The coaching is free, you just pay admission.
Mark Reeves - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to PFWJ: Hi

I am a coach based in North Wales and as well as myself their are a bunch of talented coaches/instructors based in North Wales who would be able to help you out.

I tend to focus on making people climb more efficiently in essence I try to make climbing the same grade routes with less effort, before moving onto pushing your grade. There are various reasons for this but it is my experience that 95% and in 95% of climbers can improve through working on their technique and tactics.

However the real improvement only comes after you put in lots of hard work to make any new techniques and tactics you are taught your default setting. In that I can teach you some things over one or two days, but they will not become ingrained unless you practice them a lot on routes within your ability. As when stressed people often revert to previous ingrained habits be they good or bad.

You can find info on what I do at http://snowdoniamountainguides.com .

I would also recommend the follow guys as they are both good climbers, experienced instructors and coaches. They will all know North Wales really well which does help when coaching this type of thing.
James McHaffie- http://www.jamesmchaffie.com
libby peters - http://llanberisguides.com
Simon Lake - http://www.northwalesclimbing.net
Gary from - http://gethigh.co.uk
Pinged - on 22 Nov 2012
In reply to Pinged:

Once again...huge thanks to all answer posters...I'll surely check your recommendations out...see you at the top of an E5 ;)

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