/ Far west Cornwall, April 2013

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goosebump - on 23 Nov 2012
Hello all,
Do you know of any venues that will suit me (leading S - VS, but will second E2) and him - likes safe/hard E3/E5 depending on rock type, and doesnt mind abbing for gear.

Are there any venues to suit us both or is a day about the better option? Havent looked at guidebooks yet and the plethora of crags on the database is hard to get a grip of.

Exciting, never climbed on cornish granite before :)

Cheers
Iain Peters - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to goosebump:

Virtually every major crag has excellent routes from Diff up to E8. Most popular are Bosigran Main Face, Sennen, Chair Ladder and Carn Barra, but there's loads more, all in the CC West Cornwall Guide. Doorpost at Bosi at HS is next to a bunch of extremes and the main crag is non-tidal. Ditto Sennen, And while you're there sample the greenstone of Gurnard's Head and Kenidjack.
gowla - on 23 Nov 2012
Bosigran would fit the bill for you both. It's non tidal and faces West so catches the sun from midday.
Raven wall and Kafoozalem in the E3 range could be abbed down to get the gear
Doorpost / Little brown jug / Ding in the HS/VS range

Chair Ladder is tidal. Classics like West Face direct (E2) and Pegasus (HS) are right next to each other, and also Bishop's rib (E1) and Diocese (VS) next to each other. All multi-pitch and abbing wouldn't be that easy.

Sennen is also tidal, mostly single pitch and all of it is abbable for gear, Samson arete (E2) and demo route (HS) are particularly good.

If you're lucky with the weather April is a great time to be down here
goosebump - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to Iain Peters:

Hi Iain,
You highlight my difficulties - theres too much to go at! We have two weekends, so Im keen we limit the time dodging between venues.
goosebump - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to gowla:

You have the measure of the kind of climbing partnership we make - thanks for a really good response. Will check all these out.

Im really excited about the visit - last time I was anywhere near was as an 18 year old, with a bunch of mates on a boat we chartered. Looking back Im amazed we got away with it. My experience of the "far west" is limited to Newlyn Harbour, the Scilly Islands (not sure if they count?) and the sea in between. Cant wait to explore the land.
Andy2 - on 26 Nov 2012
In reply to goosebump: At Gurnards Head, you have Shark (E1) right next to Tropospheric Scatter (safe E4) with Right Angle (HS) nearby. Need low tide for the first two.

What about Pordennack? Cain and Immaculate Arete are both safe E3 and E4, and there's Zekes Route, Nut Route and Green Face (all HS, the last non tidal}

At Land's End, Day Tripper E4 is near Cormorants Slab (S) and Cormorants Bill (HVS). The first is a single pitch to lower off a fixed rope.

Can Barra has loads to suit you, also Sennen and Bosigran as mentioned earlier.

Have a great trip!

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