/ Ben Nevis/ Glencoe mixed climbs
Looking for recommendations of mixed climbs in Ben Nevis/ high up Glencoe area around grade 5 or 6 which don't need ice as I doubt there will be much.
n.b. im a bit low on warthogs at the moment i.e. 0 so would rather not go for too much frozen turfy protected stuff.
Hoping to get out Monday to Wednesday and reckon the west may be best. More familiar with mixed stuff over in the east although ive done a bit over on the dark side..
any info appreciated
Cheers guys. North Face route is on my bucketlist but I wasnt sure how low the snow level in glencoe is- will check the webcams tomorrow. Never thought of shackle route-sounds ace for winter-nice summer route.
Gargoyle wall looks good.
Thanks for the info Andy
I wouldn't go for either of those for a day or two, everything in the corrie was mush today.
thanks for the conditions info jamie. Snowed up rock does seem the best option. see what happens
In fairness I've done Scabbard when the turf wasn't so good, and although it made things more awkward in a couple of places we mostly didn't need it. Pretty sure there were a couple of bits on Spectre where you'd be stuffed without frozen stuff though.
SCNL is great of course but definitely requires the turf to be frozen. Spectre is good with some ice on it also.
Spectre is good with some ice on it also.
....but probably even more bold!
When we did it it seemed a bit like a thin ice thing. Great climbing, quite different to standard snow on rock fare. I couldn't see how it could be done without the ice but maybe it was covering hooks? The grade seemed about right though.
Plenty of hooks, although some of them were a bit crappy and the crux on the second pitch was quite puzzling and technical. Took me two goes; lowered gibbering off a bulldog first time, then used that as something to head for and then protect the crux. It's probably still there, my partner couldn't shift it! Agree with the grade, but at the bolder end of it.
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
Everybody who has used a gas cartridge stove in cold conditions knows the lower the temperature, the poorer the performance of... Read more
The British climbing scene is very exciting at the moment. It is quite clear that as a sport it is developing at a rapid rate and... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more