UKC

Hey folks,

Looking for recommendations of mixed climbs in Ben Nevis/ high up Glencoe area around grade 5 or 6 which don't need ice as I doubt there will be much.

n.b. im a bit low on warthogs at the moment i.e. 0 so would rather not go for too much frozen turfy protected stuff.

Hoping to get out Monday to Wednesday and reckon the west may be best. More familiar with mixed stuff over in the east although ive done a bit over on the dark side..

any info appreciated

cheers

Jon

North Face Route or Shackle Route on the Buachaille?

In reply to Milesy:

Gargoyle Wall?

In reply to Jon Wylie:

Cheers guys. North Face route is on my bucketlist but I wasnt sure how low the snow level in glencoe is- will check the webcams tomorrow. Never thought of shackle route-sounds ace for winter-nice summer route.

Gargoyle wall looks good.

Jon

In reply to Jon Wylie: Scabbard chimney or spectre in stob coire nan lochain should fit your bill.

In reply to Jon Wylie:

Thanks for the info Andy

Jon

In reply to andyinglis:


I wouldn't go for either of those for a day or two, everything in the corrie was mush today.

In reply to Jon Wylie:

thanks for the conditions info jamie. Snowed up rock does seem the best option. see what happens

Jon

In reply to Jon Wylie:

In fairness I've done Scabbard when the turf wasn't so good, and although it made things more awkward in a couple of places we mostly didn't need it. Pretty sure there were a couple of bits on Spectre where you'd be stuffed without frozen stuff though.

In reply to Jon Wylie:

SCNL is great of course but definitely requires the turf to be frozen. Spectre is good with some ice on it also.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Spectre is good with some ice on it also.

....but probably even more bold!

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

When we did it it seemed a bit like a thin ice thing. Great climbing, quite different to standard snow on rock fare. I couldn't see how it could be done without the ice but maybe it was covering hooks? The grade seemed about right though.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Plenty of hooks, although some of them were a bit crappy and the crux on the second pitch was quite puzzling and technical. Took me two goes; lowered gibbering off a bulldog first time, then used that as something to head for and then protect the crux. It's probably still there, my partner couldn't shift it! Agree with the grade, but at the bolder end of it.