/ NEWS: Grit Action: New E8 7a for Jordan Buys and More

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UKC News - on 27 Nov 2012
Jordan Buys on the first acsent of No Surrender, Baildon Bank, 4 kbJordan Buys added No Surrender, a new E8 7a to the quarried grit venue of Baildon Bank, Yorkshire and Pete Whittaker has added a new E7 6c to Hall Moor Quarry, Derbyshire.

Check out the video of Jordan here...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67637

The Pylon King on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:

A mat halfway up the route - i don't think i've seen that before.
Goucho on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies: Why not just wear one of those big 'Sumo' suits and have done with it!

Is the E8 grade with the mat, or without it?
In reply to UKC News: Nice one Jordan!

Gotta love Baildon Bank! :)
Enty - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Baildon saved my life during foot and mouth - underrated.

E
Lukas V-L - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Goucho:
> (In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies) Why not just wear one of those big 'Sumo' suits and have done with it!
>
> Is the E8 grade with the mat, or without it?

"It takes the arete to the right of Speak the Truth. It's quite short, but really bouldery to get off the starting ledge, to a bolder sort of finish. I ended up doing it twice in the end, once with a pad, once without. The pad makes the start move off the ledge way easier because it lifts you higher into the starting undercuts."
The Pylon King on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Lukas V-L:

.... but theres two pads.
Simon Caldwell - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Lukas V-L:

Those comments are from a different climber about a different route :-)
tobyk - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:
I was literally checking out curving crack the HVS next to this, this afternoon. thought to myself bloody hell there's chalk up that arete. look's hard. Well done
Frank4short - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Lukas V-L:
> (In reply to Goucho)
> [...]
>
> "It takes the arete to the right of Speak the Truth. It's quite short, but really bouldery to get off the starting ledge, to a bolder sort of finish. I ended up doing it twice in the end, once with a pad, once without. The pad makes the start move off the ledge way easier because it lifts you higher into the starting undercuts."

Weren't those the comments about the other route?

Tyler - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:

That looks terrifying! Nice one Jordan
biscuit - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Goucho? Mr Mark Stephen Davies:

Here we go again.

As he hasn't on-sighted it the E8 is only a proposed grade, without mats i would guess.

I am sure we can all see the consequences of coming off the FONT 7C+ ( i.e. really bloody hard ) crux.

Jordan has chosen to climb the route without risking serious inury or death. Thi smay be hard to believe but some peolpe don't want to hurt themselves too badly or get killed just for a sport.

The E8 onsight without mats is still there for others to go for if they feel like improving on his style.

He has not lied about his style of ascent.

I wouldn't normally make comments along the lines of you can't comment unless you're good enough to do it but i think it holds weight in this case - and in many cases where mats are being used.

Put yourself in his position and think: " I know there is some readily available kit that means i can climb this without possible killing myself. Should i use it ? "

I guess most would say yes.

It's just a different style of ascent. No one is saying it's as 'good' as an on-sight solo with no chalk of course and neither is Jordan.

He's seen a bit of rock he really wants to climb, climbed it in a style he wanted ( which has not altered anything for future ascenscionists ) and it looks bloody impressive to me.

This is certainly not the first time i've seen a mat half way up a route for this purpose.
biscuit - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to biscuit:

And just to add i bet it would still bloody hurt if he took the swing into the mat. It's not as if he'd be landing nicely on his feet on the flat grassy floor is it ? The impact would still be very hard/bone breaking.
nigel pearson - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:
that looks bloody hard, well done.
edinburgh_man on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Hi mate, the E8 grade is with the pad.

Quote from Jordan:
"really independent climbing and yes that's a pad on the massive spike jug of the classic boulder problem below. I wasn't feeling like climbing E9 that day ;) or breaking the spike!!"


In reply to Goucho? Mr Mark Stephen Davies:

Typical UKC negative comments. Get a grip.
biscuit - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to rosmat:


Cheers for that.

Awesome stuff.

In all fairness on reading back Mr Mark Stephen Davies may have just been commenting on the mat - which to many is an unusual sight - and not being negative.

Sorry if i got the wrong end of the stick there.

Ramblin dave - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to rosmat:
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> Hi mate, the E8 grade is with the pad.
>
> Quote from Jordan:
> "really independent climbing and yes that's a pad on the massive spike jug of the classic boulder problem below. I wasn't feeling like climbing E9 that day ;) or breaking the spike!!"

Fair answer to a reasonable question IMO.

Bloody impressive in any case - the line looks amazing.

Good work Pete as well.
highclimber - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News: The style of ascent doesn't bother me in the slightest - the quality of that vid does! the music and the quality make it look like it was done in the 90's.

Top effort though - that rockover looks mental!

Simon Rackley - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News: Well done jordan, you loon!
The Pylon King on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to rosmat)
>
>
> Cheers for that.
>
> Awesome stuff.
>
> In all fairness on reading back Mr Mark Stephen Davies may have just been commenting on the mat - which to many is an unusual sight - and not being negative.
>
> Sorry if i got the wrong end of the stick there.

Thats right i was commenting on the hanging mat - very unsual.
Of course if he was really concerned about not hurting himself he should have simply top roped it as he can obviously do the moves ok.Just a thought.

The Pylon King on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to rosmat:
> (In reply to biscuit)

>
> In reply to Goucho? Mr Mark Stephen Davies:
>
> Typical UKC negative comments. Get a grip.


Incorrect, not negative, i was making an observation of the fact ive never seen a mat used like that. i think you need to get a grip.
biscuit - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:
> (In reply to rosmat)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
>
> Incorrect, not negative, i was making an observation of the fact ive never seen a mat used like that. i think you need to get a grip.

Doh ! That was the point i was making in my second post Mark.

It was easy to take as a criticism ( as was your top roping comment ) but looking back with calmer eyes i clocked that may not have been your intention.

I can see why Rosmat thought the same.

But less of this quibbling, it can't be argued that it's a strong line and looks awesome.

puppythedog on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:

> Of course if he was really concerned about not hurting himself he should have simply top roped it as he can obviously do the moves ok.Just a thought.

Or climbed it with some form of added protection which led to him feeling happy as long as it doesn't ruin it for others like a bolt. I don't think that Jordan SHOULD do anything he doesn't want to and I certainly don't think any one else is in a position to tell him what he should do.
Adam Lincoln - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Goucho:
> Is the E8 grade with the mat, or without it?

Go and repeat it and let us know what you think? E8 is just what it says on the tin, a guide! Made a bit safer by using a pad. Use ten it might become a boulder problem. Use none and it might be E9. Thats the beauty of climbing, you can change the goal posts to suit what you want to get out of it!

Adam Lincoln - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Oh and maybe a pat on the back for Jordan too, for getting off his arse in this crap weather we are having and giving us all some more routes to go at, or aspire too.

Double pat JB.
maybe_si - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Jordan you monster! Fine effort! :)
Skyfall - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to rosmat:

Thanks for a sensible informed comment (unusual I know)

To others : you might note rosmat stated facts and didn't even offer judgement on the use of the mat.
pork pie girl - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:

good effort Jordan...


pity about the usual over analysis and critism from some people on here.. really we should just feel inspired by these achievements and get out there and do the do too .. even if it is at a much lower level :O)
adi3969 - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News: Top stuff Jordan, the mighty "Bank" never fails to deliver, now with 17 routes of E6 and above and still rising it lies in second place on Yorkshire Grit to Ilkley with 22.
Fraser on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Great looking moves by JB, just a shame there wasn't better footage of the ascent. Looked from the camera angle like the 'planted' mat was sitting a bit high in the event of a fall, but I'm sure it was checked beforehand.
romatou18 - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Goucho:
> (In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies) Why not just wear one of those big 'Sumo' suits and have done with it!
>
> Is the E8 grade with the mat, or without it?

I am new to UKC I saw this post randomly, awesome just well done to Jordan, that looks impressive.

As for the rest of the comments, honestly I don't know where some of the commenters come from or what motivates their silly or negative comments like the one above. I guess it's jaleousy or else but please !! talk about it at the pub with your mates if such is your wish, but don't pollute the post with such negative noise!

And on top of that I'd be interested to know how much of the pointless critics authors could even climb that route with a top rope + the mats !?

Many thanks Jordan keep up with the amazing work!
galpinos - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Fraser:
> just a shame there wasn't better footage of the ascent.

Apparently there's better quality footage from another angle that will be released soon (according to Jordan on the other channel).
The Pylon King on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to biscuit:

It certainly does look good.
The Pylon King on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to puppythedog:
> (In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies)
>
> [...]
>
> Or climbed it with some form of added protection which led to him feeling happy as long as it doesn't ruin it for others like a bolt. I don't think that Jordan SHOULD do anything he doesn't want to and I certainly don't think any one else is in a position to tell him what he should do.

sorry my mistake, i meant to have used 'could' and not 'should' - silly old me!!
BrianT - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to tobyk:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> I was literally checking out curving crack the HVS next to this,

Big Curver that is. Curving Cracks is same grade but a bit easier and much further along the crag.
adi3969 - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to adi3969:
> (In reply to UKC News) Top stuff Jordan, the mighty "Bank" never fails to deliver, now with 17 routes of E6 and above and still rising it lies in second place on Yorkshire Grit to Ilkley with 22.

Outdated already.... 18 routes of E6 and above with Suttys new E6 6b next to Cool Trickster.

Offwidth - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:

Pretty standard use of mats these days on hard routes if you are going to hit a ledge (or a spike in this case). Maybe you neeed to get out more ;-)

Anyone else with any updates of access problems for Hall Moor or how thick the jungle is under and above Private Targets. Not been back for a couple of years (when low profile visits seemed to be OK).
Adam Long - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to Offwidth:

Be interested to see a pic of Pete's new route, Johnny and I toproped it back around '99 or so. Struggling to visualise how it relates to The Illustrious Scut, which is also described as climbing the arete right of Speak the Truth.
Elliot89 - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Looks Terrifying. Good Work Jordan

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