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Topic - Academic research for trainingregimes

Bulls Crack - on 27 Nov 2012
Just wondering really after reading the latest received wisdom in the mags re: endurance, power-endurance training regimes. Are they backed up by 'proper' research ie trials, significant test groups/experimental periods etc?

If I was, say, in my endurance volume training to include a route at my onsight grade, rather than lots of routes below that, would this really blow the the training ...really?
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