In reply to Scott_M@c:
Hi Scott,
We went in May, but I think it's also got a lot to do with how long you can go for and whether you camp up on the glacier or choose catered luxury on the moraine. You can work out my choice from the report.
The problem is that bad weather can come in leaving quite short weather windows to get anything done. If you are a self-sufficient outfit camped up on the glacier you are much closer to the peaks & can snatch an ascent in a good weather window before it closes. I had a tough team who were happy with that strategy. Being there for 3 weeks in total also meant that we could sit out bad weather without running out of time to make ascents.
When the weather is good it's fantastic but when it's bad it's horrid. Wind as much if not more than precipitation.