/ Redpointing Aids

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stingray_tara - on 28 Nov 2012
I recently returned from Alicante where a European was working a rather desperate climb - she had a enlongated (about 12") stiff quickdraw to aid bolt clipping (she would then exchange this contraption for a standard draw when she'd made the move) - does anyone know where i can get one of these/what they're called?

I'm presuming they're a European thing - as i have never seen them in the UK.

mkean - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to stingray_tara:

I've not seen them for sale but I've seen a few homebrewed efforts, what about threading a skinny quickdraw tape through a bit of stiff plastic tube?

I think Grivel sell shorter stiffened quickdraws with a hand grip type design on the tape.
GridNorth - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to stingray_tara: There is a shop in Sisteron makes these up and sells them. I made my own with one of those krabs that locks open. I tried to insert the link to Needlesports but it doesn't look as though they sell them any more. I used rubber compound tape to fix a plastic tube to the krabs and then covered it with tubular tape. I can also attach this to a cheating stick that I made out of tent poles and thin wire that you pull to hold it rigid.

John
GridNorth - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to GridNorth: Should have added that I connected the krabs with a 30cm dyneema sling and put the plastic tubing around this. The tubular tape was cosmetic and to keep it contained.
markus691 on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to stingray_tara:
Beal Panic Sling or Kong Frog?
Nick Russell on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to stingray_tara:

I thought the standard way to aid up a sport climb when you're working it is with a stick clip. That way you can hang on one bolt, clip the next then work the moves on toprope. Does a 12" stiff quickdraw really give much of an advantage over a regular one?
GridNorth - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Nick Russell: A couple of years ago I failed on a route at Portland. I had done it before but for the life of me I could not reach the lower offs. Someone loaned me a cheating stick and it saved me a lot of faf and I decided there and then that I would acquire one. Hauling a stick clip would have been a bit of a nuisance so it's handy for those situations rather than out and out redpointing.
cb294 - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to stingray_tara:

In Germany they are called "Panik-Exe" (panic draw), and can be used to clip bolts from further below than when using a normal quickdraw. They also have a modified carabiner that holds the gate open until it snaps shit when the bolt hanger touches the inside of the carabiner.

I guess you can also use them for aiding, but I havenīt seen this done.

The one Beal makes is called "beal panic", e.g. seen here

http://www.bergfreunde.de/beal-panic-cliphilfe/

Grivel and Kong have similar sets.

CB
stingray_tara - on 28 Nov 2012
Thanks guys- its the beal panic sling that i was after - but good to know that others manufacture the same thing.

I guess there is debate whether it makes a huge difference!?! There was a route that was working in spain - where clipping the bolt put me in a position which was precarious and leaving a long run out - whereas if i had have had one of these i would have been able to make the clip before putting myself in a position which was tricky to reverse...

I did think about putting together a homebrew - but the lazy side of me is thinking that a internet purchase may just be simpler.
tom84 - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to stingray_tara:

i read the thread title and wondered how you could redpoint an immunodeficiency syndrome.
cuppatea on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to stingray_tara:

My first thought was Why not thread the tape through a length of hosepipe. Reckon that would work?
cb294 - on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to cuppatea:
> (In reply to stingray_tara)
>
> ..Why not thread the tape through a length of hosepipe. Reckon that would work?

That still wonīt give you the special carabiner that can be fixed in the open position but snaps shut once clipped into the bolt hanger.

CB
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lithos on 29 Nov 2012

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