/ Redpointing Aids
I'm presuming they're a European thing - as i have never seen them in the UK.
I've not seen them for sale but I've seen a few homebrewed efforts, what about threading a skinny quickdraw tape through a bit of stiff plastic tube?
I think Grivel sell shorter stiffened quickdraws with a hand grip type design on the tape.
Beal Panic Sling or Kong Frog?
I thought the standard way to aid up a sport climb when you're working it is with a stick clip. That way you can hang on one bolt, clip the next then work the moves on toprope. Does a 12" stiff quickdraw really give much of an advantage over a regular one?
In Germany they are called "Panik-Exe" (panic draw), and can be used to clip bolts from further below than when using a normal quickdraw. They also have a modified carabiner that holds the gate open until it snaps shit when the bolt hanger touches the inside of the carabiner.
I guess you can also use them for aiding, but I havenīt seen this done.
The one Beal makes is called "beal panic", e.g. seen here
Grivel and Kong have similar sets.
I guess there is debate whether it makes a huge difference!?! There was a route that was working in spain - where clipping the bolt put me in a position which was precarious and leaving a long run out - whereas if i had have had one of these i would have been able to make the clip before putting myself in a position which was tricky to reverse...
I did think about putting together a homebrew - but the lazy side of me is thinking that a internet purchase may just be simpler.
i read the thread title and wondered how you could redpoint an immunodeficiency syndrome.
My first thought was Why not thread the tape through a length of hosepipe. Reckon that would work?
> ..Why not thread the tape through a length of hosepipe. Reckon that would work?
That still wonīt give you the special carabiner that can be fixed in the open position but snaps shut once clipped into the bolt hanger.
you need a stiffy
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