/ First climb/gully ideas ????????

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Rock Badger on 29 Nov 2012
Hey am just starting to get into some more extreme winter action, plenty rock and tree experience and a heap of hill walking and some scrambling.

Im looking for some ideas of exiting fun safe routes to find my feet,

ive got 12 point crampons and my trusty old scottish mountain technology walking axe and plenty rock gear, also have a mate who's keen,,just looking for some info for some quality fun routes,

oh ye im based in crieff area
chur chur
Rock Badger on 29 Nov 2012
In reply to count: was thinking about easy gully on ben lui but am not sure as ive read alot about avalanches, which would be nice to avoid
Milesy - on 29 Nov 2012
You should fill out your profile in regards to experience for better replies.

For a first easy gully to solo you can't go wrong with broad gully in Stob coire nan Lochan. You get the benefit of seeing the coire, the cliffs and being part of the atmosphere in a busy climbing day up there.

For something harder and you are confident with your rope work (particulatly multi pitching) you could do NC Gully.

Avalanche Safety should be taken into consideration for many routes including Broad and NC Gully.

Grab a copy of the book "a chance in a million" about Scottish avalanches. It is essential reading :)
Cameron94 on 30 Nov 2012
>
> Avalanche Safety should be taken into consideration for many routes including Broad and NC Gully.
>
> Grab a copy of the book "a chance in a million" about Scottish avalanches. It is essential reading :)


+1

I would grab a chance in a million if you can.

Where are you based?
Mark Bull - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to count:

The Glen Coe routes Milesy suggests are probably a better choice for a first route than Central Gully on Ben Lui, as they are easier to protect
with rock gear. The grade I gullies in Coire an-t Sneachda would also be good choices in this respect. You could also consider some easy mixed routes as an alternative if gullies are not in good condition, such as Sron na Lairig in Glen Coe, or the E ridge of Beinn a' Chaorainn.
no_more_scotch_eggs - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to Mark Bull:

Sron na lairig seriously exposed in the upper reaches, I wonder if it could be pretty intimidating for a novice. Need a cool head for the walk along the narrow section near the top.

Dorsal arÍte usually figures in these debates if mixed routes are included. It's pretty straightforward goes in most conditions and the 'hard' bit is protectable and avoidable if needed. It may be popular, but for good reason.

Cheers

Gregor
Mark Bull - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:


> Sron na lairig seriously exposed in the upper reaches, I wonder if it could be pretty intimidating for a novice. Need a cool head for the walk along the narrow section near the top.

True enough, though the narrow section is short, and since the OP is a rock climber and scrambler they might find it OK!


no_more_scotch_eggs - on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to Mark Bull:

Yep, all depends what you're used to. And the actual climbing on it is pretty straightforward, in an amazing situation. A great route, some lovely photos of it on here too...

Cheers

Gregor
Rock Badger on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to Cameron94: sounds like i need to get this book an read it, winters properly kicking in now tis exciting,, im based in Kirkcaldy but am quite often in Crieff
cheers fraser
Rock Badger on 30 Nov 2012
In reply to count: Ace cheers folks thanks for the input,
next weekend ill be out, will let you's know which route went for and how it was
Thanks again Fraser
roll on the winter its looking good out their, cold and snowy,, woop woop
Scott_vzr on 01 Dec 2012
In would say get on some accessable snow slopes eg near the path on Tarmachan etc. Practice crampon technique and ice axe arrest and cutting steps etc.

Then finish the day doing the ridge, it will probably be icey enough for crampons and has some narrow bits you can practice walking on.

Do a few narrow/steeper ridges to get all the basic WInter hill skills then do some gullies.
dan bulman - on 01 Dec 2012
my first gully was coire an schneacda(?). good approach from the ski car park. practiced crampon stuff on the approach to the base of the crag. then up alladins couloir once happy. belayed off buried axes. easily identified route too.
Rock Badger on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: Hey making some plans for this weekend, do you think id need a pair of axes for NC gully, Cheers Fraser
Milesy - on 04 Dec 2012
There has been a lot of fresh snow and drifting in Glencoe. Reports are a lot of areas look wind loaded so I would exercise caution in any Gullies. Luckily the new SAIS Avalance reporting season start this weekend so you shall be able to use that to your advantage.

It all depends on the condition of NC. If it is banked out you can get up it with a single axe no problem, but when leaner there is a few icy bits you might prefer two axes for.

I haven't had any problems with cornices myself on NC gully, but dont know if that is always the case as SC gully just a little further up can develop a monster cornice. My initial thoughts are that NC is less liable to the same overhanging cornices as it is quite narrow at the top and the angle would just lead to it banking out more.
Rock Badger on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: Ace thanks for quick reply, will make some definite plans on friday, been doing some reading up in my old school mountaincraft and leadership regards cornices and avalanches,, cornices look either fun or scary as hell.
cheers Fraser
Andy Syme - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to count: Just saw this post.
I did Central Gully on Ben Lui last Monday (26th) and it was ok, but a bit thin in places. We had a little bit of slab avalanche in the gulley but nothing to worry about. The protection was virtually non existant for ice gear as turf was not reliably frozen under the snow, and rock protection is limited to smaller cracks (I only took a couple of mid range rocks and got 2 pieces in total). No cornice to speak of, though a week can be a long time so could be some now.

It's a great route and well worth doing when you are happy to climb it effectively solo, but probably not a good first route to lead or try without someone who is more experienced.
Milesy - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to Andy Syme:
> though a week can be a long time so could be some now.

That can be a life time and it has been a lifetime as there has been a lot of change since last Monday.
Joak - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:
> (In reply to Andy Syme)
> [...]
>
> That can be a life time and it has been a lifetime as there has been a lot of change since last Monday.
A week without a hill day/climb/bevvy...now that's a lifetime!
Andy Syme - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy: Totally agree that my experience a week ago will be different to this weekend, that's why I caveated it :-)

I would suggest/hope that the info I provided would however be helpful for Count's planning. If he thinks not he is very welcome to ignore it.
Mike00010 - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to count:

I had a bit of a look at the snowpack on the ridge above glenmore lodge on thursday and it was a weak loose base layer with a hard packed layer then another weak loose layer then a hard, icy packed top layer. If the steeper slopes are similar then be careful.
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AG - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to count: first gully for me was ben lui - great climb. Things like west gully on ben a dothiad, aladins couloir, Black spout on lochnagar are nice ..IMO would say grade 1 gullies are best in late winter i.e march/ april. Ridges are a better bet for this time of year, but what ever you fancy.

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