/ First Grade III
Thanks very much I'm midway through planning a couple of trips north this winter so thanks for the info.
For a pure ice route red gully on the North face of Sgor na h-Ulaidh in Glencoe is a great day out. A bit away from most of the honeypots, good rock belays and reasonable rock protection although youll probably need some screws as runners.
Milesy is spot on with twisting gully-great route. Good friday is also great but there is a traverse into it and a traverse on it. Also the belay opportunities at the start of the crux traverse pitch were crap both times I did it.
For a mixed kind of Alpine feel but not as big as Tower ridge- SSE ridge on the cobbler, Arrochar (free abseil at the end)
Also, if its been really cold for a week-frozen waterfalls:
1)Eagle falls by the drovers inn at Inverearnan, Loch Lomond. 15 Minute walk in and you can view conditions from the road- beware of the sinister stuffed bear if you go in to the Drovers for a pint after. I have a picture of a mate being "compromised" by this bear-very immature.
2)Eas Anie, Ben Chuirn (near Tyndrum and Ben Lui). I've done the grade IV version of this on the left and not the Grade 3 on the right but it looked really nice and the start is the same.
For Cairngorm mixed moving the technical grade up a little III4 Invernookie in Sneachda is really good and well protected.
Sidewinder in Coire an Lochain is absolutely fantastic. Great Climbing and it takes you through some really cool situations weaving round some of the steeper routes.
hope that helps
My first Grade III was Castle Ridge on the Ben--a good choice when in condition, as the difficulties are short-lived but deserve the grade. A fantastic mountaineering route.
Yeah Eagle falls are a great wee day out. Done it Christmas Eve 2010. Would be nice to get it done again this year if there is a good freeze.
Would love to do Eas Anie. Has there been any more info about what is happening with it in regard to the mines now? I don't think it has came in properly since they started again.
I didnt know the mines had affected it. I did it a couple of years back on a day when the mountains were pretty shady avalanche wise, great relatively safe option on the day. Ben Lui-central gully looked like death on a stick that day! I'm keen to go and do it with the dog on a safer day.
Blue Ribband also looks good if it get really cold.
Give us a shout if your partnerless over the winter at any point Chris. Yet to meet up but I'm always keen to get out.
I'd say Castle Ridge was III,4 for the crux.
Can see why you might say that, in scratchy powdery nick it can be quite technical for the grade, and then you have the potential for avalanche oblivion on the approach and exit. But on a sunny day with consolidated neve it's a romp, and a much shorter one than TR without the same scope for bottle-necks.
PS - may or may not have done one of your routes on Dothaidh, have messaged you.
> I'd say Castle Ridge was III,4 for the crux.
Quite possibly--felt hard for a few moves, but then again I'm crap at mixed climbing so a bad judge of whether something is tech 3 or 4!
Also when we did Castle Ridge together the crux was in quite easy nick, at least compared to when I soloed it last winter. Although that was after a storm and the crux was very icy.
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