/ UKC fit club 298

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Daniel Heath - on 02 Dec 2012
Liking Ally Smith’s STG – Avoid Christmas Gluttony
Best to think about this one early before the temptations arise.

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (297) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=528606
Posters:
Ally_smith – Good to see you back. Read your blog, it sounds like a lot of adventure packed into two days of climbing.
Kevster – A couple of weeks of endurance now would make a difference for Chorro…
AJM – Good sessions. Maybe fill your rest days with little extras like press ups, core?
Joughton – Monday sounds like a mega session, I think I’ve done less in a whole week! It would be cool to see a vid of your Nosferatu HP when you go for it 
Seankenny – Well done on BFD. Hope to see some more “proper training”
Deacondeacon – Welcome to fit club! Looks like a good first week of training. Remember to post your week even when you have bad ones ;)
Richard Popp – Good to hear your resolve to train your weaknesses after reassessing your goals. I’ve no doubt you can get some gains in the next few weeks with this focus.
IanRUK – Good work running in your flight days when many would find an excuse to do nothing.
Eagle River – Good couple of sessions. Always good to take a big fall now and then.
Biscuit – Ah the dilemma between training for long term and resting for performance… Don’t let me catch you on bodyfat :P (12-14.5% currently)
Nomics4Sale – Gentle fingerboarding isn’t too much to ask. Do some!
Grubes – Grubes is back I the game! Psyche is good news
JimmyKay – I guess your job restricts your training much more than your student life… Still good to see you get enough done to improve. Clearly good quality sessions.
Ali – Another good week, and even your plans for “maintenance” seem plenty.
NMN – Sounds like you pushed yourself this week. Good work on the PB
Si_dH – Face reality and step on the scales :P Another busy week, take care of that finger.
Maria85 – I think you’re allowed to eat cake on your birthday! Well done getting a bit of everything in even if you were feeling groggy
Mrchewy – Well done getting on a 6b. You’re strong enough to climb 6b, so I’m sure you’ll cruise them with some endurance + route climbing tactics (efficiency, resting, clipping etc).
Mattrm – Lots of good phys there. Sorry to hear about your gran.
Ian Bell – Good luck campussing, it’s great for quick results if you don’t get injured.
Rollo – Well done getting 3 sessions in, but I expect you could squeeze some form of exercise into those rest days?
Exile – Solid week. 1:20 on 6b+ sounds v tough
Pork Pie Girl – To echo Ali, your training volume puts most of us to shame! Hope your injury recovers soon
Oddtoast – I’m glad climbing’s become a part of your life! At least you’re still running. It’s good to see you persevere with Couch to 5K.
Pebbles – Wishing you a quick recovery
Curious Yellow – Wow 5 sessions is a lot. Good that you’re pushing yourself
Annak – Great week, and well done for having the discipline to rest. You could do a “recovery” run or some press ups if you feel the need for something?
IainRUK - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Decided to do a solo unsupported paddy buckley, aimed for sub 24 but lost time on the last leg.. happy enough

m: 6 mile road run
t: 7 mile fell run
w: 10 mile road run
t: lunch: 3 miles easy. pm: 7 mile fell run recce of hebog paddy section
f: rest
s: Winter Paddy Buckley round. 62 miles, 9000m ascent, solo unsupported, finished in 25.5 hrs.
s: last bit of above.. probably spend the rest of the day eating and drinking.
Daniel Heath - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

M-35min med run. Climbing, 11 1/2 laps of 71 circuit with ~2min rests. Close arm Press ups
T-
W-Ran to climbing, 5K. no time but felt fast (maybe because I could catch my breath at crossings) Made me absolutely knackered for climbing but considering I want to train endurance this wasn't a major problem
T-Pull ups 3,6,7,8,9,10,9,8,7,6,3
Press ups 10,12,12,12,12,12,12,12,10
F-Climbing 4x4 attempt on 7a. Fell apart on 3rd set but got very pumped which was the idea.
S-28min run. Med intensity cross country.
S-Pull ups 6,10,12,12,9,8,6
Close arm press ups 6,16,16,16,12

Happy to fit a few more of those extras into non climbing days
Success for the diet this week. Weight back down to ~65kg and bodyfat reading between 12.5 and 13.5.
Eagle River - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

Goal: 7c by April 2013

Mon: Routes indoors, Finally ticked the white leading ladder 7c (think I've been trying it for 4-5 weeks). Skipped the top clip like a hero/cheat, whichever way you want to look at it.

Thurs: Routes indoors, attempted the remaining 7b + 7b+ I've not done at stockport, unfortunately they're on the same line so when it was busy I was just killing time repeating other stuff. Didn't get them but they should go when I'm fresh.

Sat: Malham. Unsurprisingly it was wet but it was really warm and ambitiously I put a rope up tremelo thinking I could work the bits that were dry and skip the wet bits. unfortunately the bits that looked dry still had wet holds so it was a bit of a waste of time! I do know where the holds are now...... Also did personal services, F&EE, half of consenting (there was a wet streak on it).


Still ticking over, bit frustrated with lack of dry projects but this has been the year of terrible conditions. If we don't get much rain this week Malham could be mint by next weekend.
NMN - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to IainRUK:

Well done Iain - brilliant, great style, properly inspirational.
pebbles - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
m:flu
t:flu
w:flu
t:flu
f:still poorly
s:tried to go out and made things worse
s:still poorly
D'oh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

going to try an inddor session monday perhaps. so frustrating in this gorgeous clear frosty weather!

NMN - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick

MTG:
Sub 40 min 10km. - Tick
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.


M - 6.26m road run, 72ft.
T - 3.52m road run, 38ft.
W – 4.48m road run, 40ft.
T – 5.18m road run, 151ft.
F – 4.4m trail run, 179ft.
S - rest.
S - 1.59m warm up, 118ft.
--- 6.21m Percy Pud Race, 298ft, Gun time 38m 21s!

Very happy with the race, felt good.
I almost feel like a real runner.
mrchewy - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to IainRUK: Nice work Iain - I find it hard to imagine having that sort of speed and you'll nail the 24hrs later this winter! I'm guessing you'll give it another go?

A good lesson for us all in focus.
grubes - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> Grubes – Grubes is back I the game! Psyche is good news


STG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
LTG (End of 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4

This Weeks Goals:
Wall a couple of times. - Fail
Trad/bouldering at the weekend - Tick
Book flights to Canada - Tick
Plan next years goals. - Tick See below
Write down next years training focus - Tick See below

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Rest Booked flights to Spain
F: Works 2 hours intense session. on my own so no real resting. Tried the new wasps did some of them. Finished some of the lime circuit.
Booked flights to canada
S: Rest
S: Some push ups. I tried Drew Haigh/tom randells elbow treatment but the laying down did not feel right. Wimberry boulders. Brassic. Tried a few hard things nothing much new worth talking about. Nice to be out though.

Next Weeks goals:
Wall one night
Get outside at the weekend

So I had a light week. But my fingers feel tweaky from pulling hard at the works. Plus that and it was freezing today.

Next years training plan.
January to march - Bouldering for finger strength, Route fitness for Spain. Crush in spain
March to June - Learn to Jam laps at millstone on crack lines. route fitness
July to August - Exposure getting used to being high in committing environments. Route fitness.
September - Squamish.
October - December. Plan 2014 and work out goals following Squamish.

Goals for next year:
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Top out the chief
boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Lead E3 try onsight.
Joughton on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: It was a good session but it takes a lot of motivation just to get started! Planning another one on Tuesday... Yeah I'll try and get a vid when I get round to it, you tempted to flash it? It's quite beta intensive, so if you get it right it's pretty straightforward but if you don't it's nails! Don't expect anything soon though, I'm waiting for it to snow because there's a very large spiky boulder at the bottom...

Decent week for me, got out for the third weekend running which was great despite the chillyness! Had a lazy spell midweek but I improved at the weekend -

Mon - routes session at MCC, did the Leading Ladder. Flashed everything up to and including the 7b, got the 7c second go because I didn't give it enought beans, and didn't bother with the 8a.
Tue - Bouldering at MCC, flashed a few V6-8s but all definitely soft! Spent ages trying a dyno and actually felt my dynamic ability improve over the session which was nice.
Wed - rest
Thurs - nowt
Fri - nowt - being lazy
Sat - Bouldering at Apparent North, flashed a couple of V3s and V4s, and worked a V6 in a few goes which is pretty good for me - Hamper's Hang - great problem. A few mates were trying to highball an E6 6c so I gave it a go but the crux was too reachy:(
Sun - tips stupidly sore!

Anyone wanting to read more about my last three weeks of climbing in the cold (Stoney, Burbage South and Stanage), feel free to give my blog a read - it's a long one with some decent pictures for once.

http://jakeoughtonclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/yectoyd.html

Cheers, Jake
Curious Yellow - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Boulder.
Wedns - Cautious fingerboard. Finger seems near enough completely fixed.
Thurs - Castle. Intending to do laps but feeling wiped out so just had a toprope session. 21 pitches.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. Hall of Mirrors. New beta - cheers Ali :-) Crux in 2 overlapping sections, slowly getting closer.
Sun - Rest.
mrchewy - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan - good work on the diet and training front, need to put the same effort in myself. All the little bits add up.

STG To weigh less at the end of December than I did at the start.

Mon - Worked late
Tues - Drove to Wales after work.
Wed - Tryfan in winter nick for the top third. Wicked day and walked round Llyn Ogwen.
Thur - Walked over Lliwedd and scrambled down Y Gribin
Fri - Boulder room, no psyche after being in snowy Wales. Messed around really.
Sat - Boulder room. Hour and a half and went for it. 5k run in sub 25min. First run since Sept and first run since the Ultra were I felt like a runner again. Really happy. no aches or lethargy. I think it took me a lot longer than I thought to get over that run in June.
Sun - Boulder room. Ticked some V1s I hadn't done, tried some V2s and V3s for the first time. Climbed till fingertips were raw and had no strength left. Made some progress I think.

All in all it turned into a decent week. First winter tick, an enjoyable 5k and whilst the bouldering was bitty, I've got some mileage in judging by my fingertips.

Still amazed by Iain's run!
deacondeacon - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

STG-back up to Font 7A's on grit (by end of january)

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)

Mon-Campus session at the works
Tue-Rest
Wed-Few routes up to HVS at Rivelin then Campus session
Thu-Circuits at the works
Fri-Campus session
Sat-Nothing
Sun-Nothing

New training plan is feeling good and seeing improvements on the campusing already although I'm sure It's technique based rather than strength based. Borrowed a road bike from a friend too and am going to try and get out on it daily.

Have also been doing a 10 minute core strength routine daily, it's fairly easy going (all crunches and planques) but I'm not going to increase it yet as I'm worried it'll mess with my regular training.

All in all I'm enjoying the training but I'm definitely frustrated that I couldn't get out on rock this weekend, conditions were great but I had other commitments.


Daniel Heath - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Joughton:

Haha I think I need a few more E5 flashes first! I wouldn't hesitate to toprope it if the opportunity arose.

I'm still dreaming of London wall, but Uni has not afforded me any outdoor climbing for ages!
biscuit - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to IainRUK:

WOW !

That is truly awesome.

Mind blowing.
Exile - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan - got it wired so not too bad

Goals:

Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3, (weather didn't really allow as much of this as I would have liked.)
Winter V 6, (would have tried VI 7 but not in the right place at the right time.)

Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5 outside?
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10%, (16% at present!)

Goals for next spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Weeks training:

Mon: 45min road run
Tues: Rest
Wed: 2hrs 30 bouldering, Kendal wall. Lots up to V5
Thur: comedy ride into work - free wheel froze so ended up roling the downs and jogging the ups! 1 hrs worth. 40 min run home
Fri: 50 min traversing on 6b+ traverse - bloody cold to start
Sat: Rest
Sun: Winter climbing kicked off with two short but good IV 5s. 7 hrs out.
Exile - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to IainRUK:

Awesome effort with the PB.
seankenny - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan.

So, a good week.

M: Rest
T: Wall, for the first time since Aug. Flailed on a 6c+ but got up it with a couple of falls.
W: Rest
T: Day hit from London to Cratcliffe and Robin Hood's Stride. Did Johnny's Groove at the former, 6B+ and in fairly quick order, then a couple of 6Bs at the Stride, so pretty pleased with that.
F: Predictably tired but managed a 1.8m run.
S: Half hour stretching.
S: 4.2m run, half hour stretching.

A pretty decent week, would have liked to get another wall trip in but have some friends visiting from India so seeing them takes precedence. Getting much done this week might also be tricky, hopefully I can continue with some running (it's nice to be fit) and stretching (to stop my shoulders making such horrible crunching noises). Getting the shoulders working a bit better should then leave me free to actually get a bit stronger.
seankenny - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to grubes:

Your plan looks great. I found US granite hard to get used to but ultimately very satisfying. When I go back I'm going to put some effort into getting all round fit - a nice strong core and biceps seem pretty useful for their routes. Yoga would probably help!

The cracks are actually very different to gritstone crack-climbing but all the mileage you can get on the grit definitely helps. Millstone isn't the only really great crack climbing venue. Curbar and Ramshaw are both definitely worth multiple visits.
mattrm - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (lost a few lbs)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (no climbing this week :( )
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, v3 @ wall, 12st 2lbs
MTG - Climb 6b @ wall, v4 @ wall, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 4lbs

M - squats & ITB
T - situps & pushups
W - Rest
T - 5k 27 mins
F - 60 situps & 15 pushups
S - 60 squats + ITB stretches
S - ITB Stretches

No climbing. Again. :| Reasonable amount of random exercise tho. ITBS flaring up a bit again, so trying to stretch that out. Had hoped to do a bit more running this week. Did a bit but not loads of DIY.
ads.ukclimbing.com
biscuit - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Nothing done this week. Currently 7 days into a 9 day stretch of work, its bloody freezing and being out in it all day is tiring. Not getting back until about 8 pm.

I was ill as well until Wed but actually got on my outside board on Thursday despite the cold. As soon as i touched it, after warming up inside, one of our kittens escaped and i spent until 2am searching in the freezing cold looking for it - didn't find it. Next morning up at 6.30am to look for kitten before work. Found it in a plant pot.

Working until Tue but on the plus side i have made a trad partner and a possible Winter partner this week so all is not lost.

Diet has been very good due to work packed lunches. If i don't have access to choc digestives i can't eat them can i ;0) Not been measuring BF though. My appetite has reduced due to the limited food and i feel in control of it again.

I WILL go for at least a day to Chorro this week as i deserve it, maybe 2.

Goals 4 this week:

Get a 7b ( wouldn't mind getting back on Annak )
2 board sessions
1 max hang session
3 x core
3 x run

Must do better.

Sankey - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Forgot to post last week.

Current main aim is for three climbing sessions per week, tick for wk1, but failed this week with only 1 session. Need to get better at heading to a wall after work regardless. Started running again this weekend as it was too cold to do anything else outdoors, but too sunny to stay in. Quite surprised about how much a morning run took out of a wall session later, seemed to simulate the all round tiredness of a day in the mountains quite well...

M: Matrix
T: Exercise bike 8.5 km
W:
T:
F:
S: Foundry
S: Climbing Works + Exercis bike 8.5 km

M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Run 3.2 miles + Matrix
S: Run 4 miles




STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks

MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards

LTG: Font 7a - want to get on some traverses at this grade at Churnet
+ 7a Sport RP
AJM - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

> AJM – Good sessions. Maybe fill your rest days with little extras like press ups, core?

To be honest I think I just need to climb more and take fewer rest days, rather than keep the climbing volumemat last weeks poor level and do non-climbing stuff to bulk things out... 4 rest days a week is just a luxury I can't really justify if I'm to hit my goals.

So this week was better really.

Monday - west way. Boulders then did a short routes session. Onsighted a 7a, had a couple of goes on a tufa-tastic 7b+, one dogging it and then one rushed burn on it, got on ok. Shame to not have more time really. Good overall.
Wednesday-Friday - Devon. Lots of bouldering, highlights being a few nice highballs, Wish (V4 probably the way I did it), a few routes including The Spider and Aerobic Wall. Basically fun to be out in glorious sunshine, enjoying the granite and enjoying bouldering.
Saturday - Brean. Crag a bit gopping but managed to spend the day trying Global Solutions, because it was dry - nice bouldery groove. Got the problem nearly sorted, good progress. Probably soft 7c?
Sunday - Creation. 5th day on. Got spanked basically. Had a few burns on the 7b+ I tried last time, did ok. Rest of the routes were abysmal - fell off the leading ladder 6a+ (not warmed up, powerful move), 6b+ (nails move!), 7a (impossible top), and 7c (impossible top). The 7b seemed no better either. Setting route after route with evil final moves often on sloping crap holds really didn't do it for me really.

Back to work Monday, need to hit the power endurance hard for 3 weeks, the bouldering this week was a nice luxury but I need to knuckle down now...
mrchewy - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM: 4 rest days sounds a lot even to me! I've decided I need more volume if I'm to get any better, so today was the third of four in a row. Fingertips are sore but they can rest Tuesday.

Good effort!
biscuit - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:

> Back to work Monday,

Glad you found some work and now we don't have to read the weekly diary of a full time climber we are all jealous of ;0)
AJM - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to mrchewy:

Lethargy, basically. Stressing filling out forms for new job, van faff, a disinclination to do pe on my fingerboard, and a weekend away from home in London disrupted things...

Routine back again this week...
AJM - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

I don't know that the past rainy month or so has been much to be jealous of! But yeah, work hopefully until next summer...
Joughton on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Well you moved from E4 to E5 pretty speedily, and you've been training hard so I thought you might give it a go! Though to be honest I really wouldn't recommend it - the crux is insecure and high, and the landing is nasty! Let me know if you're ever about in the peak and wanting someone to belay you on a TR though, I'd be up for a few more goes playing on it.

Ah don't talk about London Wall to me, still have a grudge against that route;)
Si dH - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:
Good luck getting into it next week mate.

No goals from me this week as im on my phone.

M: 100 chinups on the large crimps and 20 deg slopers, and then front 3 / back 3 repeaters
T: bouldering at wirksworth. Short session but reasonably good, did a couple of v5s and a v6, but felt like proper grades rather than the ones you get at modern bouldering walls
W: short fingerboard session, some max hangs on the thin crimps
T: bouldering at alter rock, short session about 1-1.5 hours but managed to tick the problem I went for that id not quite managed previous visit. Probably v6ish, really good moves.
F: short fingerboard session, some repeaters theb max hangs on 2 finger pockets
S: rest
S: bouldering at curbar. Disappointed, didnt really tick anything new other than a couple of 6b+s. Fell off trackside another 10-15 times (total must be about 50 failures now) then spent a long time on gorilla warfare. Dabbed on the last move twice - will go next visit if fresh. Then tried art of japan but short on skin, then ultimate gritstone experience which was ok but I somehow fell off topping out. Kind of summed up the day!
Had an early christmas party this evening, ate far too much cake!!
Joughton on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to IainRUK: Bloody hell good effort!! It would take me days to go that far on foot... very impressive.
AJM - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si. That pad arrived by the way, cheers...
maria85 - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Iain - amazing effort, well done. Very inspirational.
Pebbles - yuk. Hope you're feeling better soon.
AJM - Good luck with the job and settling into 'real' life.... you have my sympathy, struggling with this not being a climbing bum thing! Grass is always greener though eh.

Last week's goals:
- 2x wall sessions TICK
- 3x runs (lunchtime - really enjoyed that the other day) TICK
- 3x bike to work TICK
- Quite possibly night orienteering on Wed night, which will be interesting/hopeless!! TICK
- 2x core sessions. Unable to fingerboard until (hopefully) next week due to board mounting issues... ONE DONE
- Weather dependent weekend climbing - have to be in Preston Fri night and back here Sat night though so limited to local(ish) stuff. FAIL

Been a very mixed week for me. The week went really well until Fri - last Sun night I'd written down day-by-day what I was going to do all week, found this really helped motivate me - stuck to it exactly except for switching 2 cardio sessions around as other people's plans changed. Very happy at this and will be doing the same tonight for this week.

Also on plus side, my boyfriend finally managed to get a job which means financially we'll be in a (slightly) better state, making me more hopeful about getting out skiing at some point this winter, negative is that he'll have to work most weekends... really not ideal but given the current job situation there's no real choice.

Weekend has been frustrating and filled with family stuff, a friend cancelling plans (not his fault to be fair) and lack of organisation on our part meant that we should have gone to the lakes and made the most of the snow but didn't have the kit with us. Very frustrating in the nice weather. Been a pretty emotionally tough weekend too. Hoping to (mentally) chill out a bit this week.


M: Lunchtime run, 4.8km, 85m height, 26 mins. Pissing rain so had to force myself out but glad I did. Depot after work - great session - lots of blacks/blues, several purples, 3 new woods - 2 flashed - more happy at the one that took about 10 attempts as I'd thought I couldn't do it first go and eventually figured it. Felt hard, maybe V5?
T: Short core session
W: Biked to work (not back). Night orienteering - 45mins - never done this before and was great fun! Good way to get a run in but do something interesting too. Did ok - 130 points.
T: Biked to work (not back). Harrogate wall - 5c, 6a, 6a+ (2 rests), 6b+ (dnf- 2/3 of it clean though), 6a+, 6a TR, half the crack (lead), half a 6a. 3x blue problems. Tired by end. Need to work on falling next time I'm there, it's really holding me back from going for stuff.
F: Biked to and from work. Lunchtime run - 4.8km, 85m height, 28 mins. Really slow - legs aching from being back on the bike I think.
S/S: Back at parents house, didn't take running stuff, achieved nothing. Might do a quick core session before bed to make myself feel better.

This week:
- 3x lunchtime/short runs
- 3x bike to work
- 2x wall sessions (maybe 3)
- 2x core & fingerboard sessions (finally have a working fb again!)
- Sat: long run? Weather looking rubbish right now.
- Sun: climb, hangover dependent (not missing Sat night homebrew party!)

JimmyKay - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan,

M-Nothing
T-Session at BBC. Starting to feel fitter on the circuit board. Best attempt was almost 3 laps.
W-Nothing
T-Nothing
F-Nothing
S-Drove through Ogwen. Got out the car, looked at the mountains for a bit. Got back in and drove to Beacon. Did a session there cleaning up anything v7 or lesson in a go or two.
S-Nothing
JimmyKay - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Joughton:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)

> and worked a V6 in a few goes which is pretty good for me - Hamper's Hang - great problem.



I hope you did the 'proper' version
Nomics4sale - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan. I haven't done any fingerboarding this week but I think you're right that a little wouldn't do me any harm and actually it might do me a lot of good. Getting to 7b might be a bit more likely with some finger strength.

STG: 7b indoors or out, V6 at BoulderUK, V4 outdoors
MTG: 7b in Spain
LTG: more E1s, look at E2

Mon: nowt
Tues: 11.4 miles, 1,040m ascent, Glenridding, Red Tarn, Sticks Pass.
Wed: nowt
Thurs: nowt
Fri: nowt
Sat: nowt
Sun: 11.2 miles, 1,145m ascent, Coniston, Dow Crag, Swirl Howe.

Very lazy week for me. Was resting my fingers which coincided nicely with a work trip away. Really keen to start climbing again now and maybe do some fingerboarding. Not sure what to do on a board or how often? Repeaters? pull ups and lock offs? Once a week? More? After climbing or on days off? Advice and tips gratefully received....



Nomics4sale - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to pebbles:

Oh dear sorry to hear saturday made things worse. Rubbish day for all concerned!
deacondeacon - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
With regards to the fingerboarding, I haven't got any specific routines for you but perhaps have a look at the climbcoach app. It logs all your training (I use it for campusing) and gives you advice on different training routines. Beastmaker do one too which I've heard is very good but I haven't used it.
Ian Bell - on 03 Dec 2012
Hi all

M - WW and some campus boarding
W - WW, routes. 3 easy ones to warm up. 2x6a+ clean. 2x6b+ with rests. 6c & 7a OS. As expected the slabs were easy (6c & 7a) and ran out of puff on the overhangs. Not too bad though considering barely any roped indoor climbing in a year.
Sun - Bowles bouldering. Did a couple of V1/V2 ish to warm up and then spent ages trying Tobacco Road (V4 / 6C). Eventually figured out the moves but by that time was too tired to do it all. Think it may go next time though.

Failed on the indoor bouldering STG, had to work late the day I was going to try it. Hopefully get it done this week as think it may be re-set next week.

Great to be outdoors again, first time since early Sep because of illness!
Rollo - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks for the encouragement Daniel!

M- 45min lunch run
T- Bouldering, Biscuit, did a lap of the greys
W- Bouldering, Biscuit, random all-sorts and some roof work
T- 2hr MTB Ride home
F-
S- Scottish winter climbing - 1st taste, bit of a disaster, abbed off in the dark
S- as above, except it was awesome andwe actually finished the route before abbing off

Great week, conditions excellent in Scotland and I didn't realise how much general fitness you get in with all the yomping up hill before climbing!
mrchewy - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Just wanted to add, for my own reference really, that yesterday I spent most of the 3hr session working on four different V3 problems. A tiny edged slab, the juggy roof problem (shocked that's as high as V3), a one move wonder on the funny angled panel and some weird step out, match hands overhanging thing that's a right head game for me.
All are too hard for me at the moment for varying reasons but at least I've not dismissed any of them.

Anyone any advice on how to get them all before they're reset in about 4 weeks? Work them one at a time for a week? Or keep going at all four and if I don't manage any of them, just accept it will round my climbing out?

pebbles - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale: yeah at least I dont have a months lay-off to do, unlike poor graham
Daniel Heath - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to mrchewy:

I think it would make for more varied and fuller sessions if you work them all in each session. Pace yourself with good rests between hard attempts.
mrchewy - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan - not worried by the ticks, just wanna get better but wasn't sure if there was a 'proper' way to do these things. Ache all over today which is a good thing!
Ali - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan!

Iain - wow, that is really impressive! I can't ever imagine being able to run that much...

Andy - good luck with the new job mate - getting back into a routine sometimes helps training plans!

Last weeks goals:
2 x run - TICK
2 x climbing session (hopefully one outdoors) - FAIL :o(
1 x gym session (again this may end up being cut but have passes which expire next week so hopefully make it!) - FAIL
1 x core - TICK

M - rest
T - run - 32 mins, felt good. Core.
W - was intending to boulder but stuck at work too late and stuff to do at home so didn't make it
T - rest
F - drive to Portland
S - Cuttings - warmed up then got on Hall of Mirrors for first time properly (had a quick end-of session top rope go a while back but was tired so didn't really get anywhere!). Managed to pull through first bit of the crux section, and work out a method of doing the upper bit which worked well for me, but still two moves in the middle I couldn't get. Not quite sure what the issue is either, body position or strength...keen to have another go and if I can get those moves may be next project :o) Other than those two moves I can do everything else, so pleased with progress. Core hurt a lot after...oops.
S - Orienteering at Esher Commons - gorgeous day and really fun run. Switched to a slightly shorter course (7.2km rather than 8.4km) at the start as was late getting there due to helping but could probably have got round the longer course. Still meant I finished enjoying it rather than feeling wasted a few controls from the end!

Work busy last week which got in the way so not a great week. Got my diet a bit more under control though and cut down on some of the sweet stuff - though I have some plums to make a crumble with tonight which may scupper that!

This week's goals:

Don't party too much (got 2 work related xmas dos which could scupper a lot of plans so aim is not to stay out late or drink toooo much on either!)
1 x run
2 x climb
1 x gym (mix of cardio, weights and core)
Fix bike brake cable so can start cycling into work again
Ally Smith on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to AJM:

> Saturday - Brean. Crag a bit gopping but managed to spend the day trying Global Solutions, because it was dry - nice bouldery groove. Got the problem nearly sorted, good progress. Probably soft 7c?

It's been a long time, but i originally thought 7c for this, but Pickford suggested 7c+ and i took the grade.

From a personal perspective, i've struggled with jetlag this week and felt a bit wiped out. Initially i thought i'd lost weight whilst away, but then realised it was all dehydration from 26hrs flying. 75.4kg, 6.5% BF.

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT

STG (end Dec 2012)
- Stick to the plan...
- Get back in the groove quickly enough to make the most of Turkish trip at New Year - Freedom is a Battle 8a+ in Antalya.
- Avoid Christmas gluttony to make previous a reality

S (25th Nov) - Stockport boulders. Felt spanked on anything harder than v5 on steep wall, but flashed some of their supposed v7/8 circuit on volumes.
M - Physio on ankle. Good progress from walking lots during Oz trip.
T - AWL routes. New set on back wall seem to be graded with a different scale then usual! Shutdown by individual moves on 7b+ and dogged 7b too. Fatigue/jetlag hit me at end of session.
W - Sport massage on ankle (ouch) then gym. 2k row 7:55 and hard work.
T - DOMS! Core especially. Stretched
F - Rest. Meant to finger board but got distracted.
S - Burbage S boulders up to v7. Felt the cold more then the rest of the team, but good session none the less.
S - 16m road ride at 140bpm. Felt good once settled into it, but sore legs this morning.

Official plan starts this week. 3 sessions; ramping up in coming weeks.
Rollo - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Rollo:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> Thanks for the encouragement Daniel!
>
> M- 45min lunch run
> T- Bouldering, Biscuit, did a lap of the greys
> W- Bouldering, Biscuit, random all-sorts and some roof work
> T- 2hr MTB Ride home
> F-
> S- Scottish winter climbing - 1st taste, bit of a disaster, abbed off in the dark
> S- as above, except it was awesome andwe actually finished the route before abbing off
>
> Great week, conditions excellent in Scotland and I didn't realise how much general fitness you get in with all the yomping up hill before climbing!

Oh and, Long Term Goal- Do some Scottish Winter Stuff - TICK!!
AJM - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to ally smith:

> It's been a long time, but i originally thought 7c for this, but Pickford suggested 7c+ and i took the grade.

Based on the logbook comments and our impressions I would plump for 7c - the groove comes straight out of a pretty good rest crouched on that mini ledge on El Chocco, and there isn't that much climbing above it - my mate flashed the top as soon as he nailed the boulder groove for the first time. Only just, admittedly, but still...

Fun moves though, quite shouldery...
oddtoast on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

M - rest from weekend, knackered.
T - routes at harrogate, leading 6as, got up a couple and fell off the rest.
W- nothing
T - bouldering at red goat, pleased to get a couple of steep ones early on, then struggled on others. Felt like crappest person in the room, despite improvements last few months. Need to chill out and not let it get to me.
F-S - nothing, shoulda run but didna..
grubes - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to seankenny: Thanks Sean.
The plan is a rough idea for training focus.

My climbing year is broken up to this at the moment

March - Catalunya
May-August weekends away.
September - Squamish

I am going to focus on routes. more this year and less time bouldering (in theory).

Thankfully my partner for squamish is incredibly psyched for climbing and has suggested fairhead as a training venue for commitiing long pitches to train. If I go to fair head I am keen to try Jolly rodger (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=36926).
http://www.fairheadclimbers.com/pages/photos/4/images/jolly_rodger_from_helicopter_500.jpg
It sounds nails but looks amazing. Its a basically a two pitch finger crack from what he said.

Also thanks for the all round fitness suggestion I try to do some core exercises at home every week even if its just 30 mins. I will up this.
biscuit - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to mrchewy:

I agree with Dan.

I remember popping a tendon when i kept trying one problem over and over again. It leads to the same strain being put on the same parts of your body = injury.

Plus it will make you a more rounded climber as mentioned.

And as it's indoors another load of V3/4's will appear for you to go at ;0)
biscuit - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Lots of advice ( and conflicting advice ) around about this.

I found the beastmaker sessions good to get started.

http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Fingerboard_Training__Beginner_1100.html

I did repeaters as much as felt OK until i felt good and solid on everything. That gave me a good base of strength/fitness and i am just starting on max hangs.

For me that means taking the same grips but adding weight or going one handed.

Recent advice ( see UKB ) seems to be to use half crimp as much as possible.

mrchewy - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit: Hadn't thought about repetitive strain - thanks for the reminder, it makes good sense.

4th day in a row today, so rest day tomorrow even tho I'm proper psyched as I was just one hold from the easy part of the roof problem! I'll be stronger on Wednesday and should nail it.
Si dH - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to mrchewy:
Biscuit and Dan have both given you good advice re: varying problems at the wall when training. I'd concur with both.
However I thought your original question was about how to tick problems best. If you are outside and trying to tick a hard boulder problem at your limit (as opposed to training), you are likely to get it much quicker by focussing on one problem and then moving on to the next. Switching between problems stops you focussing on any of them properly and sorting out the details, which in my experience inevitably leads to all of them taking longer and, sometimes, going home with no skin and no ticks.
But to re-iterate, for indoor problems and training, mixing it up is still best.
mrchewy - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Si dH: Thanks Si - I think you've phrased my own question better than I did. Whilst I'd like to tick them, the training matters more as it's better technique I'm after.
One of them I can do if I miss a move out like most do but the move is what I want to learn, it will help in the future I'm sure.
As the proud owner of a new Snap mat - I'll keep your words in mind when I next venture outside :-)
Kevster - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:


Cheers Dan,
Last week was a wash out, no climbing at all.
I think I may have to try hard at the wall tomorrow, volume or try something tough to get the pump up. Chorro is so close and my climbing is becoming less and less. Can't be good for tickage, though thanks for all the suggestions last week. I think it'd be rude not to try a 7c in Chorro even if it is just to kick my ass back into doing something about it through spring.
Jealous of the cuttings crew - have fun and climb hard.

kev
maria85 - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:
> I found the beastmaker sessions good to get started.
>
> http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Fingerboard_Training__Beginner_1100.html
>

Cheers for this... having not fingerboarded in years think I'll be using the beginner section later this week! That's better (read, friendlier) than most training plans I've seen.
Joughton on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to JimmyKay: Aw man I'm worried now, probably not - didn't have the guidebook, just had a vague idea of where it went so the most logical line for me was to start at the far right of the sloping lip (just underneath Black Car Burning), traverse the lip using heel hooks to a big flat hold then swing along the break to the bottom of Skinless Wonder... What's the proper version?
Si dH - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Joughton:
Oops, sorry Jake, im afraid it goes the other way! :) Not sure how big the difference is but you do have to do the hard bit when already pumped. Otherwise what you described sounds right to me but Jimmy might have some other trick up his sleeve.
annak on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

A pretty good week - busy but kept on the right side of knackered.

M: cycle 6 miles, run 30 mins

Tu: cycle 6 miles, bouldering at Mile End - ran into a friend who I'd not seen for ages, the peer pressure got me up a couple of routes I thought were beyond me!

W: run 3 miles

Th: cycle 10 miles, bouldering at the Biscuit Factory. A really great session, I feel like I'm beginning to hit my stride there - and the new roof is great fun

F: walked to work (3 miles in 45 mins) with my massive weekend rucksack on

Sa: Trad at Rivelin. Nothing difficult, we just wanted an easy day out, so did a bunch of routes up to Severe - except for right at the end of the day, when my friend pointed to a 'VS' with a blank-looking slab section as the crux, and said I should lead it. I refused, we top-roped it, and later on at home we realised it was actually E1 5a!

Su: Climbing at the Foundry, felt really solid all the way up into 6b territory.


This week's training includes lots of running (10km run in a fortnight) and climbing (trips to Spain and Aviemore over Xmas). Might also try and find somewhere close to London where I can teach myself to do proper mountain biking...

Nomics4sale - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to biscuit:

That's great, thanks. I'll give it a go. Do you use a board on your days off climbing? I'd like to do finger training after a bouldering session but I'm guessing that's not advisable? Maria85, how are you going to fit in it around climbing?
pebbles - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale: yeah, I'v wondered that. used to use my fingerboard a lot when I wasnt going to the wall so often, but now I'm going three evenings a week as well as an weekend climbing I'm not sure how best to use it - if I use the fingerboard on the days in between when I dont climb it doesnt feel as if it gives my arms a proper chance to recover
Nomics4sale - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to pebbles:

Hmm. I don't always have time for a fingerboard session on days off climbing, would be ideal to squeeze a session into the climbing days. And then recovery - I think I'd need at least one full day off each week to recover? Subject to views from fingerboarding fitclubbers I might try 2 sessions per week to start off, one on a climbing day, one on a day off. See how it goes....
Richard Popp - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan et al, funny old week-felt very sharp pull in stomach on Sunday of previous week bouldering-left feeling a bit bruised. OK week, trying to get established in new work, l;ots of exciting non-climbing stuff bubbling around which is kind of getting in the way. OK week, does'nt feel like I have launched into training regime as yet-put to gether an overall conditioning programme to build core and general upper body/shoulder strengh-consists on bolton complex, lunges, core exercises and press ups+shoulder rehab stuff.

M-2 full conditioning routines-fingerboarding-warm up plus 30min "burl" session.

T-Stretching and swimming

W- 2 x conditioning routine

Th-nothing, off to London for mad punk gig, like a most wonderful tonic.

Fr-Biscuit fatory-weird place, cold. Problems felt quite diferent to TCA and overall it felt much higher-woo. Managed 8-10 problems in the V3-V5 categories, did not really work very much, was ticking the stuff I committed to with my feet even when feeling quite high. Good to go somewhere diferent.

Sa-feeling a bit coldy but went for first run in ages-got three months to hlaf marathon and even though I am not a runner am not worried about process-did about 2.5 miles, felt great.

Su-Collapsed full of snotty headache after my partner bailed, beautiful day but felt like death by Lunchtime.

Rich
mattrm - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to IainRUK:

Mega! Well done, that's a serious achievement right there.
Nomics4sale - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to IainRUK:

Just read the article. Intense!
biscuit - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Max hangs would be done after a rest day normally and possible need one after.

Depends what you've done the day before and what you intend to do the day after.

Climbing is always more important i reckon, as long as it's not dossing around chatting to your mates down the wall rather than doing anything type of climbing.

Just give it a try and see what happens. If you feel too fatigued you have your answer.

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