In reply to GridNorth:
> I once saw a group of continental climbers with every screw larksfooted off. It seemed like a good idea.
Not really. The now rather old BD research found that tieing off screws that weren't fully in could lead to failure:
http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/content.aspx?con_id=095232e4-4caf-49e... I don't think anyone has since shown this to be wrong?
These metal widgets would stop that from happening, like with the Grivel speedys, but it's much better just to have the right length of screw. I've got two of the speedys - in real world situations the widget can easily freeze to the body of the screw and then the krab flies round trying to flick you in the face as you spin the screw home! Quite annoying.