/ New testpiece from Greg Boswell
Was privileged to watch some of the ascent the other day, and pleased to see that they prevailed, as they still had plenty to do when we left the corrie!
Is it just me or are grade VIIIs getting harder? I know it's just a piece of armchair speculation, but this looks way harder and more sustained than any other route I can think of at the grade.
Grade consolidation innit.
Toby it is plastidip - Google it.
That was my first thought. Assuming the tech 9 is right, it depends how good the protection and belays are. The grade VIII,9 should mean it's safe and not too sustained at 9. It's very impressive, so one wonders.
The pic captioned 'Me leading away from the ledge on pitch 3' just makes it clear how steep these things are.
When I 'lead away from the ledge' on a winter route I'm usually shuffling along some two-foot wide platform with stare-y eyes and the boak.
Here's the belay on the ledge:
There was a crap cam and wire lower down as well. The wire in photo is good though.
The light on Gargoyle Wall is you from Saturday; https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/261561_10152328768105445_2026524897_n.jpg
that looks wild. Top effort lads!
Plastidip sounds interesting - can you just slop it on like paint - is it thick enough to sculpt finger indentations with. I'm about to mod my fly's and this sounds like the finishing touch.
Yes, we did hear quite a lot of hammering from your wee ledge. Given the hour of the day we were a wee bit concerned that you might have been trying to beef up an ab anchor!
You can either put primer on first which makes it stick better or better yet wrap climbing tape around the axe first which seems to absorb the plastidip.
and then just layer it up.... avoid the spray on though its Sh*te....
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