/ New testpiece from Greg Boswell

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Jamie B - on 03 Dec 2012
This one seems to have stuck under the UKC radar thus far http://gregboswell.co.uk/index.php/2012/12/02/tomahawk-crack-viii9/

Was privileged to watch some of the ascent the other day, and pleased to see that they prevailed, as they still had plenty to do when we left the corrie!

Is it just me or are grade VIIIs getting harder? I know it's just a piece of armchair speculation, but this looks way harder and more sustained than any other route I can think of at the grade.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead: Looks an amazing route, but I want to know how his mate got super-cool yellow handles on his Nomics! :-)
remus - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> Is it just me or are grade VIIIs getting harder? I know it's just a piece of armchair speculation, but this looks way harder and more sustained than any other route I can think of at the grade.

Grade consolidation innit.
edinburgh_man on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Toby it is plastidip - Google it.
Andy Nisbet - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> Is it just me or are grade VIIIs getting harder? I know it's just a piece of armchair speculation, but this looks way harder and more sustained than any other route I can think of at the grade.

That was my first thought. Assuming the tech 9 is right, it depends how good the protection and belays are. The grade VIII,9 should mean it's safe and not too sustained at 9. It's very impressive, so one wonders.
Hay - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
Agreed Jamie.
The pic captioned 'Me leading away from the ledge on pitch 3' just makes it clear how steep these things are.
When I 'lead away from the ledge' on a winter route I'm usually shuffling along some two-foot wide platform with stare-y eyes and the boak.
Bruce
Adam Russell - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Here's the belay on the ledge:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10100373168000741.2517041.61015386&type=3#!/photo.php?f...

There was a crap cam and wire lower down as well. The wire in photo is good though.
jonnie3430 - on 03 Dec 2012
Erik B - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: i dont have the guide handy,has this been done in summer? and im assuming this was onsight groundup... which makes this a phenomenal and extremely brave ascent, that is pretty bloody hardcore launching up into that sea of vertical to overhanging rimed up nothingness.. the crucial belay sums it up, very lucky to find that good wire..fine margins.. respect to young Boswell and his partner

Karl Wooffindin - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

that looks wild. Top effort lads!
Dan Arkle - on 03 Dec 2012
Great effort and some great photos.

Plastidip sounds interesting - can you just slop it on like paint - is it thick enough to sculpt finger indentations with. I'm about to mod my fly's and this sounds like the finishing touch.
Jamie B - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Adam Russell:

Yes, we did hear quite a lot of hammering from your wee ledge. Given the hour of the day we were a wee bit concerned that you might have been trying to beef up an ab anchor!
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D.Russell - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Dan Arkle:
You can either put primer on first which makes it stick better or better yet wrap climbing tape around the axe first which seems to absorb the plastidip.
and then just layer it up.... avoid the spray on though its Sh*te....

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