/ comfortable rock shoes

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drsdave - on 05 Dec 2012
Hi people,
ok ineed some feedback/advice/knowledge of comfortable rock climbing shoes for obviously rock climbing and boldering. What do people use out there.
I tend to be a little broader than narrower and take a size 9 in a civi shoe.
I currently use 5-10 Anasazi VCS which although work well, become tight and hot my toes too much after a couple hours.
Any suggestions welcome

d
Jon Stewart - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to drsdave:


The soft black Evolv slippers are fairly cheap and very comfortable indeed. The downside is that they last about 2 weeks.

I think that for comfort you probably need to experiment and find something that fits your feet really well, or go for something really sloppy and soft which will usually be crap and/or disintegrate quickly.
neuromancer - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

To add a little more reason to this; evolv shoes won't last as long as a c4 soled shoe; closer to a stealth onyxx shoe.

SRC: I have bandits.
neuromancer - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to neuromancer:

If i were going again, shamans
Trina B - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to drsdave: i just got a pair of 5.10 huecos and they're really comfy... but that was after wearing crippling anasazi verdes for too long...
i'd go to somewhere that sells a wide range of shoes, with staff that know their shit, and try on everything. but i'm one of those people who likes irritating the V12 staff, i guess...
good luck!
drsdave - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to Trina B:
so you're recommending V12 as a place to start?
EliC - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to drsdave: Iv been there and yeah im sure they can give you some great advice
gcandlin - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to drsdave: I have found that the Scarpa Vapour V are incredibly comfy, I can where them quite tight and they still stay comfy for hours.
turtlespit - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to drsdave: If you're able to wear them for a few hours, they must be a fairly comfortable fit already. My Anasazi velcros are sized pretty tight, so I take them off at the end of every pitch. Less walking around in them increases their lifespan. (though I have pair of cheaper 'trash em til they die' shoes that I'll wear for an entire gym session)

If you've got wider feet, try Scarpa. I've got a pair of Boostics which are wider than the Anasazis, and a pair of Instincts that seem to be wider than the Boostics. I was also able to go half an EU size smaller with the Instincts & Boostics than my Anasazis.

Probably best to avoid La Sportiva, as I've found them quite narrow. My girlfriend loves them though as she has narrow feet.

Best thing to do is try on a lot of different brands when you decide you want new shoes.

ripper - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to drsdave: you don't say how long you've been wearing the Anasazi VCS for - I'm on my third pair of these now and although I'd never say they were exactly 'all day comfy', they definitely get better after a month or two. They don't really stretch a great deal but soften up a bit and kind of mould to the shape of your foot. So, if they're still fairly new, I'd say persist for a while, slip your foot out of the heel or even take them right off between climbs, and see how it goes (I often walk around with the heels of mine trodden down, like slip-on mules, and they don't seem to take any harm. I also have a pair of 5.10 Spires, in a half-size bigger than the Anasazis, for wearing on long mountain multi pitches with socks.
drsdave - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to turtlespit:
thanks
d
drsdave - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to drsdave:

many thanks to all who have replyed, some good tips and suggestions,

be safe
d
Duncan Beard - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to drsdave: I have flipper shaped feet size 10, with about size 8 ankles. I use 5.10 Spire in size 10.5 with a sock unless it's hot. They are very comfortable but slightly baggy in the heel (not a problem at my grade).
Ian Black - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to drsdave: I used to have the Anasazi's and loved them couldn't believe how sticky they were, only snag at each stance I had to take my heels out as they were tight as feck. I bought 2 pairs of Ascents and have almost worn out the second pair, so I'll be looking for an alternative. Ascents are more than enough for the grades I'll be climbing...

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