/ Dry Tooling Venue - Aberdeen Sea Cliffs

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Lamb - on 06 Dec 2012
Before I am publicly castrated on here, I was wondering if any of the Aberdeen sea cliff fiends on here could put forward a possible suggestion of a section of the sea cliffs which could be used for dry tooling? I.e. A section too damp and minging that is never climbed upon, but would be acceptable within the sea cliff climbers to be used for tooling?
Brian - on 06 Dec 2012
In reply to Lamb: There is some tooling at the Harbour Wall - the first three lines to the left of the cave were dry tooling lines.
tenbob on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to Brian: 3 lines left of the cave at Harbour Wall? That would be Great Escape, Desederio and Desdemonia - all starred rock routes?
Dave Cumberland - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to tenbob: That thing right of the Secret Policeman's Ball?
IceBun - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to tenbob: Nah the big cave with the bolts well left of the trad routes at Harbour Wall and it was only the lefthand two that were dry tooled I thought. There are 5 bolted lines, the lefthand two are the dry toolers than a F6b+, F7c and finally a F7b.

In response to Lamb's original question the perfect venue is the vast amphitheatre area of rock at the righthand side of Johnsheugh. Right of the trad routes. Another place with potential is the vast cave at Findon Ness right of Grave Doubts. You will need a drill, bolts and a vast amount of energy but go for it. My other top tip would be the right wall of Boglesheugh ie the east facing wall, big and scary but some solid rock in there for the bolts.
Brian - on 09 Dec 2012
In reply to IceBun: the 3rd line was top roped from the hangers quite a few times - I never got around to putting in the rest of the bolts in due to good conditions in the hills. Rankers put the rest of the bolts in I believe..
ads.ukclimbing.com
Lamb - on 10 Dec 2012
In reply to IceBun: Cheers for the advice. I've no experience with bolting whatsoever, but if there were a couple of interested parties keen for setting up a crag, then I would be more than willing to help out. I'm sure Aberdeen could be doing with a venue like this, would definitely get used.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.