/ Set of Ice screw

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pak.pako - on 08 Dec 2012
would you recommend any set of ice screws for Scottish Winter climbing a grade III/IV ? and how many on every size?

thanks a lot
Milesy - on 08 Dec 2012
I have 2 x 13cm, 2 x 16cm, 2 x 19cm and that is way too many for most Scottish routes.

If I was to buy again I would just get the two stubby 13s, one 16 and one 19.
pak.pako - on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to Milesy:

Thanks for answer Milesy

I think about this set : http://www.elitemountainsupplies.co.uk/product/892_black-diamond-express-ice-screw-set-no2.html

and I have stil 2x21cm old ice screws

Thanks again
The Ex-Engineer - on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to pak.pako: The problem with ice screws and Scottish climbing is that you generally need none, sometimes need a couple but occasionally need lots.

At a rough guess:
For around 70-80% of routes you probably don't need any, you can find other gear.
For another 15-25% of routes 2-3 screws will be enough.
For perhaps 2-3% of routes 5-6 would be ideal.
However for a final 1% of routes were, depending on conditions, you may need two belays on ice screws you might need 8+ to be completely happy.

Most people work rounds this by only having a few and then relying on their partner also having some or borrowing some for specific routes or when climbing at specific venues like Ben Udlaidh.
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Wee Davie - on 08 Dec 2012
In reply to pak.pako:

For grade III I wouldn't be expecting to place many screws- unless climbing at somewhere like Udlaidh.
I've sometimes seen climbers carrying screws where they really aren't needed. If it's an icy route/ gully it will quite often say so in the route description. If it's a buttress climb it's unlikely screws will be of much use as there will usually be reasonable wires/ hexes/ slings you'd place in preference.

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