/ Peuterey Ridge from Eccles Hut

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Liam Ingram - on 15 Dec 2012
Has anyone on here climbed Mont Blanc using this route or know anything about it? It seems like a great way to climb the mountain from the south side but I can't seem to find much information about it.
Cheers
existing debt - on 15 Dec 2012
In reply to Liam Ingram: No help at all but was looking the ridge today in the Italian sunshine! Looked stunning. Was chatting to a pal about the ridge, it's one of my top ten ticks.
Mr-Cowdrey on 15 Dec 2012
In reply to Liam Ingram: the route is described in detail towards the back of the 'Snow, Ice and Mixed Vol II' guide book for the Chamonix-Mont Blanc area.
Mr-Cowdrey on 15 Dec 2012
In reply to Liam Ingram: http://www.cordee.co.uk/CCE287.php this is the guidebook
jayjackson - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to Liam Ingram:
I've climbed the Innominata from the Eccles huts, and since being there and looking over at it the Peuterey is definitely on the to-do list!

Great article here about the Integral...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4415
Luca Signorelli - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to Liam Ingram:

It's a great route, but nowadays the Innominata is more frequented, as albeit a bit more difficult (strenous HVS at 4000m), you avoid the traverse of the upper Freney plateau, that after heavy snowfall or in very dry conditions may be very dangerous.
dasc - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to existing debt: I read an evocative article in Climber and Rambler about the Peuterey arÍte ,in the early eighties, and it's since been a route I've longed to do,alas I now think that it will remain just a dream!!
rif on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to Liam Ingram:
From what I recall (but this was 40 yrs ago!) you just head for the shoulder by whatever seems the easiest way on the day (snow couloir well to left, or in our case easy mixed ground close to the ridge line with the odd move of VDiff or so). Then along the shoulder (narrow crest with the odd small pinnacle to get round) and then up the ever-steepening ridge in a great position.

Your idea probably would be the technically easiest way up the Italian side of Monte Bianco, but still very serious. I also think it'd be rather dissatisfying to sneak onto the upper part of the ridge without having first done the Aig. Blanche (we had done its N face) or even the integrale.
ads.ukclimbing.com
tistimetogo on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to Liam Ingram: I've only been up the Aiguilles grises but yeah the peuterey looks amazing. You may find this site interesting

http://www.philippegatta.fr/montblanc2.htm#Peuterey

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.