/ DMM ropes

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snoop6060 - on 16 Dec 2012
Anyone got any feedback?

I'm in the market for a new 60m sport rope. The only real requirements I have is that its >10mm, handles nice and is hard wearing. I've previously been impressed with my edelrid livewire. I've had real problems with a beal edlinger (admittedly this was cheap). And am massively unimpressed with my mammut infinity that needed cutting after 3 weeks use in kalymnos. Had other mammut singles and none have been that good. My mammut halfs are still mint after 4years of use tho.

The dmm concept and the mission seem to suit my needs. Looking for something that will stand up to a thrashing and inspire confidence if I'm shunting on it. Anyone got one of these, or alternatives? Perhaps the beal top gun. Needle sports have all three at decent prices.

Any feedback welcome.
Cheers


Si
thegoatstroker - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to snoop6060: The Dmm ropes are actually made by Edelrid.

I've not usedthe singles but the halves handle really nicely

HTH
snoop6060 - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to thegoatstroker:

Didn't realise that! I'm probably gonna get one then. I've had nothing but good experiences with edelrid ropes, in fact all their gear seems pretty solid.
Jordon Fleming - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to snoop6060: ive got the prophet and it handles really well and runs nice through a grigri; i have also used the mission and thats very similar just fatter. However a bit in the sheth on my prophet is quite damaged where i took a fall and it run over a sharp bit of granite, probs my fault.

but i had a beal elinger aswell and that lasted me well but i think its just luck of the draw on how quickly u wreck them sometimes.
Sean_J - on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to snoop6060: My favourite is a 10mm Sterling rope - 6 years old and still going strong, it's handled way more abuse than similar Mammut/Beals. I've also got an Edelrid Eagle (9.8mm), about a year old so no long-term usage comments yet but it handles really smoothly and feels like new (no soft spots/sheath slippage).
kirsten on 16 Dec 2012
In reply to snoop6060: if you can get to the outdoor show next month,they *may* have them at trade prices. Got my halves last year for 140 for the pair and they're great to handle.
Martymo - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to thegoatstroker: DMM ropes are made by Beal...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2882
Blue Straggler - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to snoop6060:

Go Outdoors regularly have a deal on the Edelrid "Perfect" around 70-80 for the 60m. I have that rope and think it is great but I have not put it through anything like the punishment that you have in mind (mine was 50 in a random basket clearout, but then I'd only gone in to buy a 7 bike pump so I'm not sure who's the real winner there :-) )

Handles nice (well, brilliantly really), can't comment on hard wearing.
sean1 - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to snoop6060:
Hi, For a sub 10mm rope I have been using a Millet tri-axle 9.8mm. It has been a really good workhorse of a rope and is lasting well, it has different built technology to normal ropes. I have also a Mammut 10.2mm super safe and that has been great. I have had Edelweiss in the past and these have really stood up to a lot of use as well.
snoop6060 - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Sean_J:

I was going to look at a sterling rope. I've never climbed with one, but others that do have always had good feedback. They are pricey but don't mind that if it's gonna last.
snoop6060 - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Blue Straggler:

I've climbed with the perfect and it handles really well, but I think that's as its built with a thinner sheath. I'm not sure it would stand up to the abuse I'll give it (assuming it doesn't piss it down all summer)
yesbutnobutyesbut - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Martymo:
> (In reply to thegoatstroker) DMM ropes are made by Beal...
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2882

That never happened. DMM ropes are actually made by Edelrid!

maybe_si - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to snoop6060:

I bought a 70m DMM (whatever their expensive one is called?) and a 50m DMM (whatever their cheap one is called, Statement maybe?) they both handle really well but the expensive one wore out in one summer (granted I was climbing most days!) Whereas the cheap one is still going strong, its a monster and I will definitly be getting another one when it does finally die!
In reply to snoop6060:
> I'm in the market for a new 60m sport rope. The only real requirements I have is that its >10mm, handles nice and is hard wearing.

Any reason why you want it to be >10mm ?

I wouldn't advise anyone to buy a rope fatter than 10mm these days since 10mm is sufficient diameter for the most hard-wearing ropes. Ropes thinner than that give you better handling and are also pretty hard-wearing these days. Ropes fatter than10mm are usually too fat for the assisted-braking belay devices like the Gri-gri2 and Click-up.

We reviewed a whole selection here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=5093

Alan
snoop6060 - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:

I thought it would be more hardwearing.

DMM, Beal and Mammut all do them fatter than 10mm, DMMs workhorse rope is 10.5, though they do say its for instructors and walls.

My 10.2 Beal works fine with a grigri, though it didn't last very long.

I suppose I am looking for 10mm or above, I basically don't want a thin rope as I already own a 9.2mm that only gets used when needed. Which is lucky given that is worn through on a 3 week trip.

In reply to snoop6060:
> DMM, Beal and Mammut all do them fatter than 10mm, DMMs workhorse rope is 10.5, though they do say its for instructors and walls.

I think that is the point - their handling is really not very good which is why they are used at walls etc. If you are using it to work routes in sustained long sessions, then a workhorse is what you need, but I would still go for a 10mm max.

> My 10.2 Beal works fine with a grigri, though it didn't last very long.

Gri-gri 1 or 2 - big difference.

> I suppose I am looking for 10mm or above, I basically don't want a thin rope as I already own a 9.2mm that only gets used when needed. Which is lucky given that is worn through on a 3 week trip.

Is that a thin 9.2mm single rope of half rope? Again, big difference.

The triple-rated ropes allow you to by one rope to suit all needs but those by necessity need to be quite thin 8.9mm to 9.5mm ish.

Alan
LukeyG - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to snoop6060: For a cheap rope the perfect is great, handles way better than most cheap rope. I reckon at that price it dosent matter if it gets shagged to quick as long as you yet 1.5yr out of it. Beal booster 3 is best ive used, slick, handles a beating yet still reasonably light.
Emilio Bachini - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to snoop6060: I used a DMM 35 meter rope about 3 to 4 times indoors for about 8 to 9 months regularly taking lead falls and it was solid. More than likely had a few topropes on it too. I think it would have lasted longer still if I didn't have to get ride of it.

I know the length isn't comparable and you intend to use it outdoors, but my experience with my DMM rope was fantastic. It also handled very well and I'd recommend it highly.

Emilio.
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Coel Hellier - on 17 Dec 2012
In reply to maybe_si:

> ... they both handle really well but the expensive one wore out in one summer (granted I was climbing
> most days!) Whereas the cheap one is still going strong, ...

More expensive ropes are usually thinner and lighter (deliberately so to reduce weight and drag) and thus they might indeed wear out faster than a cheaper (thicker, heavier) rope. Unless you really need the highest performance (on your onsight of a 35-m 9a for example), it's usually sense to buy middle-of-the-range.

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