UKC Forums - Trad Climbing in Les Calanques

Trad Climbing in Les Calanques

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dolfduivenvoorden 18 Dec 2012

Does anyone have recommendations for tradclimbing in the Calanques. We're planning on doing mainly bolted routes, but a couple of days of trad would be nice.

Removed User 18 Dec 2012

reply to dolfduivenvoorden: I've not been to the Calanques for over forty
years. There were no bolted routes in those days, but I remember there were
plenty of superb trad routes of severe grade and upwards, to HVS and above. I'm sure there will be up to date guidebooks available by now.I'm sure you will have a great time. try En Vau.

adnix 30 Dec 2012

In reply to Removed Userbootsie:

If you're going for multipitch check out Devenson. Some trad there, too. I did a trip there two years ago in December and it was fantastic.

Some pics here:
http://www.patagonia.fi/blog/pictures/calanques-armata-calanca-td-320m/

caradoc 31 Dec 2012

In reply to dolfduivenvoorden: Tt all feels like trad, the situations above the sea are fantastic and the routes follow natural lines. There are some short technical bolted lines but mainly the routes weave up the cliffs with big distances between pegs and bolts. I didn't do much when I was there, a bit in En Vaux and I can't remember any route names but it's a very impressive place.

GridNorth 31 Dec 2012

In reply to dolfduivenvoorden: Does En Vau still attract the nudists? It was very hard to concentrate on the climbing when I was there in the 80's Unfortunately it also had a reputation for thefts from cars so you need to take care.

brianrunner 31 Dec 2012

In reply to dolfduivenvoorden:
En Vau has good trad routes in a great setting. We went there last March. In terms of car security we parked at Col de Gardiole and it was safe with a park ranger there all day it seemed- as described in the rock fax guide for cote d'azur p90. We did la saphir and serene liautard and both were great and in a unique position above the turquoise waters.

cat22 01 Jan 2013

In reply to dolfduivenvoorden: The Arete de Marseille is worth a look - fairly long with a trad feel to it. Great line and fun climbing, not too hard: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55467/fr/calanques-sugiton-la-candelle-are...