/ Finale in Jan. - Tips please!

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Darragh - on 18 Dec 2012
’Going to Finale Ligure for the first time in a couple of weeks – just for a week and the guidebook is 600 pages long (!) so I’m eager to get some tips on which crags to hit. I think some crags/routes are very polished, some are very, um, ‘traditionally’ bolted and I’ve heard there’s a fair amount of sandbag grading. We’d quite like to avoid each of these (especially scarily spaced bolts, as we haven’t been proper sport climbing for ages and a week is not such a long time to get the psyche on) so tips on which crags have been most recently developed/equipped and fairly graded would be especially useful. We climb up to 6c or so on a good day, but very happy to romp and bumble on lower grades. Long routes preferred (really long, if the weather’s good enough). We love crimpy balancey face climbing and physical, brain-teasing corners, off-widths etc.; not so big on OHs and roofs.

In the guidebook it sometimes gives ‘compulsory grades’ with aid grades numbers for people wanting to do routes a bit too hard for them and aiding through the cruxes. I’ve never done much of this (honest!) but I’m tempted try on one of the sublime multi-pitchs. Is it feasible? (To do it, would we need to carry trad gear to pull on, or is a sling on a bolt usually enough?)

adnix - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Darragh:

There's a very nice 200 metre cliff just outside the city of Finale. The new area towards France, "Oltre Finale" a lot less polished.

http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingItaly/Oltre-Finale.html
http://www.patagonia.fi/finale/ (my pics)
Wise - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Darragh:

I've been to Finale loads (although not recently) and haven't found it that polished. The older multi pitch routes have less bolts but almost all the single pitch stuff is well bolted. Grades wise I always found them consistently tough (rather than sandbags). Look to drop a couple of grades at the start. A good place to start would be Rian Cornei valley which has loads of crags in it.
cariva - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Darragh:

Grades are tough in Finale....and locals are really proud of it...IMHO some of it is sandbaging, but some of it is just that Finale has a tricky climbing style, especially the "crimpy balancey face climbing" ones.
I agree that la "Valle Cornei" has a good introduction for you guys....La falesia dell'eco has several nice 6a's for you to try as a first day...once you get used to it, the "Rocca di Perti" and "Monte Cucco"(free camping here) are a good choice. In Monte Cucco you will find a few 6a's that feel like tricky 6c's, but just look at the route's year...if it's from the late 70's early 80's then you know you will face a tougher grade.

The longer routes there are located mainly in the "Paretone" (big wall in English)....there is a must-do route called "Grimonet", 240m, 6b max (1 or 2 pitches at 6b),....mind you that longer routes almost always mean more spaced bolts, but it never gets really scary there, as far as I am concerned. It is an awesome route!

I also heard that the new guidebook was more "precise" with the grading....but such statement has caused some controversy.
Finale has around 3.000 routes, so you will have plenty to climb...go to "Finalborgo" and ask for some advice at one of the two stores there.

I live about 60km from there...if you want to, drop me a line and I may be able to join you guys at least for a day or so. Have a nice trip!

Cheers

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