/ Drytooling wall in garage?
I want to put it on hinges at the base so that I can change the angle and put it up against the garage wall to get my car in. The garage is made from breeze blocks and is well built.
I was thinking of attaching wood onto the breeze blocks then the hinges onto the wood, to move the wall away from the garage wall a bit and thought it might be stronger...?
Any advice on how to have a strong attatchment onto the breeze block wall would be great.
(I was going to have 2 attatchments at the top and 2 chains from the garage wall to the wall to change the angle)
Do you mean breeze blocks or 'proper' concrete blocks? Breeze blocks are pretty soft and you'll struggle to get a really good anchor in them without a fair bit of work. You can dig through them with a spoon :-)
When fixing the chains at the top don't fix into the top course of blocks unless they are well tied together and absolutely bombproof or you'll pull them out of the wall. I'd use glue in fixings rather than expansion bolts and if you are really worried about the solidity of it then through bolt the wall and put a spreader behind.
m kean has a fetish for resin anchors.
I've now had 2 expansion bolts pull out of walls, once due to a cavity in the block and one that was in an ideal placement. A lot of expansion bolts are absolutely awful at resisting straight pulls even in ideal placements. I wouldn't hang a >200lb wall off a couple of them in that position never mind climb on it.
I'm sure a structural engineer would recommend the through bolts method. You could use M12 studding.
Alternatively spread the load over several blocks by using a plate , angle iron timber or ply. Use at least 4 fixings per plate .
If it goes to the floor why waste hinges on it, just sit it on the floor against the wall. It's the tension anchors at the top that require more care. When I've done this in the past I used expansion anchors to bolt on a 2x4, I then built off that for convenience. You could equally well bolt on some hangers to attach your chain to.
Or better use a compression member across near the ceiling. Hinge it to a spreader on the opposite wall saving drilling any significant sized holes (screws and rawl plugs will do since loads on them are small and almost entirely in shear if you do it right). Pass it through a hole near the top of your wall (or a notch in the top and the angle can be changed by moving pegs in the compression strut. It's a neat solution requiring minimal drilling and no great structural strength in the building wall material.
You read it here first....it'll all end in tears! But good luck nonetheless.
I don't know what you mean by "support beams of the room" but it is important not to cut, drill or notch any part of a manufactured roof truss.
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