/ diedro ubsa abseil any interesting stories?
I didn't know you climbed up there.
I've posted this before...
A friend told me this tale. He was climbing a route somewhere to the left and watching two climbers setting up the abseil on Diedro UBSA. It was clear from both conversation and body language that one of the climbers was a climbing instructor and the other his client. The instructor goes down first then calls up to his client that the rope is free and that he should come down. To my friend's horror, the clients reply was "How do you get this thing on the rope?"
The 1st time I did it I lowered Sherri down the abseil, she wasn't that experienced at multi-pitch. At the level of the ledge there was a bit of a pause until I said "You need to open your eyes now". At the belay she clipped each and everyone of the many bolts and pegs.
There's a couple of possibilities to the meaning of your statement in the way I have read it:
a) Are you talking about free climbing the rock along the line of the abseil back to the start of it on lead, or
b) Are you talking about jumaring back up the stuck rope on lead.
Scenario a) has the unknown technical difficulty of the rock and protection available. We probably only had a skeleton rack of quickdraws and nuts, as its a kind of trad/sport hybrid.
Scenario b) has the unknown quantity of the stuck rope. Will it pull through the eye of the belay chains.
Both have risks of potentially big fall factors onto the belay, we were unwilling to take. Having worked out that we could finish out the route on a shortened rope for what I think were the remaining 3 pitches, it was a no brainer. Oh no I think I'm lecturing, but the old adage of you can replace a rope, you can't replace yourself rang true.
Having now bothered to look at your profile I can see you that you are an experienced climber and that you wouldn't misuse the expression 'free climbing' - I may have interpreted it as a reference to considering soloing back up to the ab point.
I don't feel at all lectured as I work as a climbing instructor and am probably guilty of a bit of lecturing myself, and also I don't know the route in question.
From experience of running a variety of climbing courses, especially with relatively experienced climbers, a surprising amount of climbers who are faced with the scenario of a stuck rope consider jugging back up the jammed rope as a better option than lead climbing back to a belay on their spare section of rope even where they have enough rope and the climbing is reasonable.
Don't remember having a problem with the abseil. It was after that things went pear-shaped!
It got dark and my mate climbed something ridiculously steep to get to the top. I couldn't follow! At about 3 in the morning the bomberos arrived and set up a winch system to haul me up. Much to my shame of course.
Still need to go back and do it properly.
Well, at least you wouldn't have gone hungry...
Thankfully, no rope issues at the abseil, but memorable nevertheless.
I did it as a rope of three. I came up last to the belay before the ab to find both my friends tied into all the ironmongery in the cave and, it seemed, to each other about 10 times too. Both were smirking and giggling as they pointed towards the abyss. They called me 'the probe' and told me to get on with it. I got the message. Once I was just out of their sight on the ab, I let out a blood curdling scream. The bugg*rs were well psyched by the time it was their turn!
It went dark on us on the final pitch too and we had a 'fun' descent on a virtually moonless late December night. Er, no headtorches obviously. A few years later, it went similarly dark on myself and two of my sons after a late-start Christmas Day ascent of Vía Valencianos. But, having learnt my lesson, we were well prepared this time, with one headtorch between the three of us. The battery died some 15 mins into the descent. Er, no spare battery obviously.
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