/ Yosemite training in Europe
We prepared for The Nose by aiding lots of routes on Stanage, practiced hauling halfway up Millstone, and had a hilarious time setting up portaledges at Agden Rocher.
Some thoughts from going to the Valley this autumn:
The rock really isn't like anything you get in the UK. Can't say for Valle de Mello, but it doesn't equate to UK routes at all. Yosemite feels weird and alien at first, but you do get used to it with practice. Honest! Being able to climb cracks here first is vital.
Full body fitness is vital, almost as useful as the typical Brit climbing wall fitness. You want to be strong all over as there's lots of high stepping, palming and general yarding about.
Get good shoes. I found I couldn't wear my usual UK ones, partly from the heat (it's a hot place) and also because they were agony in cracks. Get a pair of specialist crack climbing shoes.
I think if you've three or four weeks you'll have enough time, depends what you want to do too, a wall, or long free(ish) routes, or cragging.
I was there this May and I'm aiming to go again next May. My ankles were pretty roughed up using my "normal" shoes. I'm looking at getting a pair of La Sportiva TC Pros.
Cassin Route on the Badile etc.
I used a pair of Mythos, which worked fine for me. I've heard TC Pros are the business!
Have you done "The Big Overhang" an A3 (there is a 5b/c short pitch to the beginning of the route) route in Gogarth North Stack, Holyhead?
before I went to the valley years ago I cleaned the route after my mate lead it.
I can't remember who took how long on the route. but one of us climbed it in 5 hours and the other one took 6 hours. We did it over a weekend and stayed with another mate who lives on Angleysea
Usual mixed bag of advice from UKC.
Mello and Orco are the nearest Europe has to offer for Yosemite Training.
However,,,, expect to be shocked to find how smooth, relentless and unforgiving of poor technique, Valley cracks and slabs are on first acquaintance. You will be spanked!
As far as Big Walling goes get a John Long book.
Nobody expects El Cap to look so impressive.
Drop a couple of grades, get as much footage in as possible and in a few days you should be able to enjoy world quality classics.
La Pedriza, Spain.
Try googling Cadarese, Esigo, Medji. Be aware though that, as Rick says, Yosemite cracks tend to be smoother and less forgiving and with less features than anywhere else!
What makes Yosemite unlike any other granite area in the world is that, for the most part, Yosemite was under the glacier, not above it. Lots of edges have been rounded off, and in some places glacier polish has made the rock slick. The kinds of crystals one sees on alpine granite have mostly been polished away. Finger and hand cracks are not going to be all that much different from other regions (except possibly for the lack of holds outside the crack), but there is also a great variety of wider cracks to be dealt with.
Cheers guys, some great info here. Sounds like you have to go to Yosemite to climb Yosemite so the emphasis should be on getting aid and crack skills up to par and then learning about the specific climbing style when there.
Yosemite isn't just big walls, multi-pitch/multi-day routes. There are plenty of single pitch trad routes and multi-pitch (easy) stuff. If you want a long day out followed by a 2 hour abseil get yourself on Royal Arches.
Try this link for guide books. There are some free PDF tasters you can down load.
the free climbing in the valley and tuolumne is great but quite gear intensive. the guidebooks generally say what gear size routes need. we always took 2-2.5 x everything on rack to 6 inches though we borrowed a bunch. and in terms of rock there is everything from glacier polished frightener slabs to cracks of every kind to jug hauling up rough chicken heads.
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