/ Summer climbing in states and canada

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Anna G - on 26 Dec 2012
Hello me and a friend planning to climb over in Canada and America next summer are planning on going to Squamish for a bit but was also want to go somewhere else. Does anyone know of other summer climbing areas over there mainly for trad climbing single and multipitch. Will be there July August time. Thank you very much anna.
cbeard - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g:

Check out the Bugaboos, for granite alpine spires out of a glacier. Not been yet, but it's on my wishlist!
Early season (wet) your best bet is to check out some of the desert areas, such as Frenchmans Coulee, nr Vantage (WA) and Skaha (BC) both are dominated by single pitch sport climbs.
loose overhang - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g: Have a look at Washington Pass. It provides superb alpine rock, some single pitch, but many 3 to 8 pitch routes on granite to real summits. The weather is almost certain to be warm and sunny at that time. There is good camping nearby and a town (Winthrop) not too far away with restaurants, etc. It is about 4 hours drive east of Vancouver. Let me know if you need more info.

Cheers, Andrew
ClayClay - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g:
NW USA is fantastic for climbing and a really good place to hang out overall. There are mountains (e.g. Hood, St Helens) and plenty of crags. I've climbed at Frenchmens Coolie (as above) and it is great- lots of trad and sport and you can camp by the car parks or head down into the valley below. You could spend a month there and not touch the surface. The other area I'd mention is a town called Leavenworth which is 1/2 day drive from Vantage. It has a really friendly climbing shop and loads of local climbs (multi pitch/ roadside, all sorts!). You can rent the town guidebook from them for a couple of bucks, the guide just for the area around Leavenworth is HUGE.

http://leavenworthmtnsports.com/spring/summer-rentals.html

ClayClay - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g:
Further to above, link to info on Leavenworth
http://www.summitpost.org/leavenworth-area-climbs/153780
loose overhang - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g: Frenchman's Coulee is going to be very hot in July and August.
Anna G - on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g: ahh cool thanks for the info, i'll look into some of those places you said. i looked at the bugaboos a bit but it looked like the weather can be bad and you can get bad storms and also its all glacier approaches and i know bugger all about glaciers!

does anyone know much about the needles??
jon on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g:

Hi Anna, I've been to the Needles (assuming you mean the California Needles?) four times. One word... brilliant. I've always been in September and it's varied from too hot (had to bail off a route) to cold and windy. July August could be perfect or too hot. There's a lot of rock between Canada and the Needles... The Hulk http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=126722 would be good (though popular) in the summer.
Anna G - on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g: ah thanks yeah i was looking at some photos of the needles and it looks really good do you know if it is ok to get round there without a car? and how easy it is to get there without a car? thanks anna
jon on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g:

It would be difficult without a car. There's a quite long dirt road leading to a parking area where you can camp. From there it's about an hour walk in. If you have to walk along the dirt road it would add hours, though if anyone came past you'd be sure to get a lift - chances are it'd be a climber as it's a dead end road. The best thing to do is to post on Supertopo to see if you could hook up with local climbers.
Anna G - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g: ok cool thanks maybe wouldn't be the best place to go with out a car then looking into toulmne might be a better option with out a car looks pretty good.
rtwilli4 - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g:

If you're climbing in the US you need a car. The country wasn't built to travel without one.

None of the places mentioned so far hold a candle to the Sierra (except the Needles of course, which may be the best climbing on the planet). The NW is great, but if you can, get to the eastern Sierra and/or the Needles.
rtwilli4 - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g:

Tuolomne would be more doable without a car but it's still a pain. The climbing is great but kind of "samey" after a while. The views are astounding but after a week I was missing NC granite.
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rtwilli4 - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to annna g:

Sorry, one more. The Hulk is some of the best alpine rock there is. Positive Vibes could be one of the best routes anywhere. Also more doable without a car than the Needles would be.

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