/ Kola Peninsula
Im trying to find some interesting places to go winter mountaineering/climbing and was wondering if anyone has been to any of the mountain ranges on the Kola Peninsula and what the routes are like and if a guidebook is available
I'm not sure that it's very interesting from that point of view. Never been there, so happy to be wrong, but I have looked at going there and decided against it. Mainly flattish hills and steep sided valleys. Go to Norway ior Greenland instead if you want somewhere Arctic..
> Go to Norway ior Greenland instead if you want somewhere Arctic...
In reply to ronniemarshall: If you have a burning desire to go mountaineering in russia, both the Urals and northeastern (think really north and even more east) Siberia both have quite a lot of peaks...
However, the russian interior is actually a very hostile place due to the sheer remoteness and weather; not to mention the logistical issues that stem from a lack of both roads and english speakers and the somewhat chaotic bueraucracy in the wild east.
That said, I think that a, lot got done out there in the soviet era, often on a shoestring; so there should be information available albeit probably in one of the cyrillic languages.
From my ongoing (and constantly stalling) efforts to organise a paddling trip in russia, I can honestly say it would be a hell of a lot easier to go to another country...
Not exactly the Kola, but: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chersky_Range
A UK expedition went there in the early 90s but still not many have been in there. Winter would be harsh, maybe no access. There are photos around, some of the peaks are interesting enough, if you like that sort of thing.
I think further north is pretty flat. Further east is Kamchatka, a lot more popular, relatively. The unclimbed 2000m high east face of Kamen is what you want.
That would be a serious undertaking! I have been looking down that face from the summit in summer and wondered if it was climbable. I think I have a photo of the face from distance but until I find it the face (which is almost entirely chossy rock in summer) is just visible on this photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=102432 (taken from the summit of Kluchevskaya). The East Face is the rocky face to the left of the summit.
Yeh, the ridge beside it (SE ridge?) was climbed years ago by Soviets. Pat Morrow wrote up the face as 3000m vert but from GoogleEarth it's not that steep for (quite) that long. It's big though. And yes, by all accounts very chossy. I always figured it would be a Feb-May kind of thing.
The bits I have been to are rather flat, looking more like Finland than Norway.
The mountains of the Sarek national park in Sweden are top of my winter wish list instead.
Thanks for all your help guys!! :D this is what I love about ukc
I've spoken to some guides out there, they say there are a few areas out there which could be used for winter climbing/mountaineering it would mainly be mixed/dry tooling so the possibilities are there.
Although looking quite intense the east face of Mount Kamen does sound like a challenge, has anyone got a decent picture of this face?
Thanks in advance
Not great, but gives an idea. Seems to be a pretty active region volcanically speaking.
Of course one can fly in (which I believe is the norm these days) and reduce the effort required enourmously. We climbed the North ridge (in the centre of the photo I linked to in the previous post) which was fairly easy albeit a bit exposed in places. Prior to Kamen and Kluchevskaya we failed on Bezymianny (sp?) because of poor weather, too much choss and only very limited experience between us.
I agree that the east face would probably best be climbed around Feb-May and I think it is only feasible if you fly in and out due to the short weather windows. It would be a nice route to tick and the views from the summit are sweet.
We took the train to Murmansk and caught a public bus to Apatity. From here it was a downhill walk to Varzuga at the coast of the White Sea. It looked like there was good access to the hills in the centre of the peninsula because of the mining activity. Haven't done any climbing there though.
I sadly came across the below earlier today. Brave lad riding in that part of the world at this time of year.
On another note, we were told about the winter caretaker who was dropped off and left for the winter months to look after the camp with his dog and his rifle, surviving in the thick snow on what he managed to shoot. He did make great rabbit skin ushankas.
Elsewhere on the site
Climbing as a discipline offers plentiful metaphors for tackling life's obstacles - bravery, courage, climbing to... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more