/ Troll wall Route description help

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LITTLE SAM - on 26 Dec 2012
Does anyone have acess to or know where i can find route descriptions and topos of troll wall in norway. Any information would be much appreciated.

Thankyou Sam
Jon Wickham - on 26 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM: Andy Kirkpatrick can probably point you in the right direction: http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/contact
Daniel Armitage - on 26 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM: Klatring i Romsdal by Bjarte Bø and Anne Grete Nebell

http://www.vpg.no/Avdelinger/Produkter/Alt-annet/Førere-og-bøker/Klatreførere-innland/Klatrefører--K...

Ring the guys at VPG. They are very friendly.

Dan
Daniel Armitage - on 26 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM: What are you planning on climbing by the way? You do realise that it is mainly an enormous tottering pile of chose don't you?

:-D
LITTLE SAM - on 26 Dec 2012
In reply to Jon Wickham: Thankyou, i will drop him an email and see if he can help, cheers
LITTLE SAM - on 26 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Armitage: Cheers Daniel, i will give them a call, massive help mate! Haha yes i have heard it has a few lose patches! have you climbed it?
Gordon Stainforth - on 26 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM:

Best English language guidebook has to be Tony Howard's Climbs, Scrambles and Walks in Romsdal.
Daniel Armitage - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: I agree that Climbs, Scrambles and Walks in Romsdal is a very handy resource, but it does not really give the modern climber a good insight into the actual state of routes, for example on Trollveggen. I also think that the topo format in Klatring I Romsdal is actually more useful on long routes than the wordy traditional route descriptions found in Climbs Scrambles and Walks.

To the OP:

The routes on Trollveggen that are in a decent state to climb are all far above the standard I climb.

I can however recommend the 24 pitch south pillar of Mongejura (Sydpillaren) which with generally solid rock, a sunny aspect and several pitches which would be 3 star E2's on any crag is great value. (But it is not as kudos (or hazard) laden as a Troll Wall ascent of course)

Dan
GrendeI on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM: I had a chat once with one of the norrøna chaps, very useful advice but never acted upon. I'll see if I cam dig it up tomorrow.
GrendeI on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM: word on the street 2010...

'Hi,

The Trollwall have been climbed several times during the past five years. The activity in the wall stoppet for ceveral years after a big rockfall in '98. The rock fall-activities changes all the time. The lokal climbers have some answers on the conditions. They try to observe it as good as possible before they attemt to climb a route on the wall. When in Romsdalen you can try to contact the farm at Fiva. This is the closest farm to the Trollwall. During the past five years (-/+) the wall has been climbed many times, mostly by locals. Routes as Norskeruta, Svenskeruta, Rimmond (partly new route), Suser av gårde gjennom Harryland, Arch Wall and sone others have been climbed. The stories of the different ascents varie from person to person. Normally the worst experiences some climers have is because of bad/wet conditions. I talked to a friend yesterday who recently climbed Norskeruta. He had a great, dry late august experience. Sindre Sæther, a skilled local climber, recently described the left part of the wall as looser then normal. As you light read from this answer, the Trollwall is a partly living creature. Its diffucult to say how the conditions are. I think that 30-40 % of all climbing plans stops at the foot of the wall.

Yours sincerely,
Christian Ekjord Foss
Team climber Norrøna'
John_Hat - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM:

I've not climbed it for good reason. An acquaintence was looking for a climbing partner and tried to get me to join him. After a resaonably extensive amount of research I said "No, thanks".
LITTLE SAM - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM: Thankyou everyone for all your help,it is greatly appreciated. I now have some good leads and information to follow up. hope you all had a good xmas.

Many thanks sam
Hans - on 29 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM: Aright mate, hows things?

Troll pillar sounds cool as the longest route in Europe? Just finished reading 'FIVA'. Hope I don't have to trust my abseil to a sapling tree after 56 hours of no sleep if I come climbing with you lol.

I'll be in touch properly soon mate :)
LITTLE SAM - on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to Hans: Hey man, im just reading it now mate, only a few chapters in but getting me psyched. ill give you a ring mate, we will talk dates etc!
iani on 31 Dec 2012
In reply to LITTLE SAM: Whatever you do - read FIVA before you go -

It recounts an epic ascent of the Fiva route on the TW . Apart from being a good read it will give you an idea of what you might encounter... written by Gordon Stainforth (presumably the same man as posted above).

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