/ Troll wall Route description help
Ring the guys at VPG. They are very friendly.
Best English language guidebook has to be Tony Howard's Climbs, Scrambles and Walks in Romsdal.
To the OP:
The routes on Trollveggen that are in a decent state to climb are all far above the standard I climb.
I can however recommend the 24 pitch south pillar of Mongejura (Sydpillaren) which with generally solid rock, a sunny aspect and several pitches which would be 3 star E2's on any crag is great value. (But it is not as kudos (or hazard) laden as a Troll Wall ascent of course)
The Trollwall have been climbed several times during the past five years. The activity in the wall stoppet for ceveral years after a big rockfall in '98. The rock fall-activities changes all the time. The lokal climbers have some answers on the conditions. They try to observe it as good as possible before they attemt to climb a route on the wall. When in Romsdalen you can try to contact the farm at Fiva. This is the closest farm to the Trollwall. During the past five years (-/+) the wall has been climbed many times, mostly by locals. Routes as Norskeruta, Svenskeruta, Rimmond (partly new route), Suser av gårde gjennom Harryland, Arch Wall and sone others have been climbed. The stories of the different ascents varie from person to person. Normally the worst experiences some climers have is because of bad/wet conditions. I talked to a friend yesterday who recently climbed Norskeruta. He had a great, dry late august experience. Sindre Sæther, a skilled local climber, recently described the left part of the wall as looser then normal. As you light read from this answer, the Trollwall is a partly living creature. Its diffucult to say how the conditions are. I think that 30-40 % of all climbing plans stops at the foot of the wall.
Christian Ekjord Foss
Team climber Norrøna'
I've not climbed it for good reason. An acquaintence was looking for a climbing partner and tried to get me to join him. After a resaonably extensive amount of research I said "No, thanks".
Many thanks sam
Troll pillar sounds cool as the longest route in Europe? Just finished reading 'FIVA'. Hope I don't have to trust my abseil to a sapling tree after 56 hours of no sleep if I come climbing with you lol.
I'll be in touch properly soon mate :)
It recounts an epic ascent of the Fiva route on the TW . Apart from being a good read it will give you an idea of what you might encounter... written by Gordon Stainforth (presumably the same man as posted above).
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