/ chapell de gliere & index (1 day) chamonix noob

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Lorr - on 26 Dec 2012
Hi,
Long time lurker - first time poster, looking for some advice, im off to chamonix for the first time in summer 13 but only going for a few days and want to make the most of it (very excited).... and was thinking of trying to attempt the index and chapell de gliere in the second day of being there...

just looking to know if this possible to compete in a day for an average climber (leading hs comfortably) with limited big mountain experience....
m dunn - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to noob rockmonkey: Index one day; bivvy. First on Chappelle next day. Follow the racers after first pitch ahead then - take your time and enjoy ... All fine if you lead around HVS. Watch for the weather though.
Lorr - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to m dunn: That's perfect, cheers for your quick response.
highclimber - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to noob rockmonkey: Don't underestimate the effect altitude will have on you, especially if you've not acclimatised properly. good luck though!
Phil Payne - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to noob rockmonkey:

Getting onto the top of the Chapelle is quite tricky and way harder than HS, so be prepared for that! I reckon that if you started early and climbed relatively quickly then you could get the index done before lunch and then run down and round the corner and do Chapelle de la Gliere in the afternoon.
GridNorth - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to Phil Payne: I would do it the other way round. The Index is shorter, easier and nearer to the cable car.
MoWalker3 - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to noob rockmonkey:
I have to agree with m dunn, perhaps do the index in the afternoon of your arrival day? after checking the forecast! The whole place will be quieter as everyone will rush down for the last lift, you will have time to enjoy the route and 'get your head in'. Do chappelle starting at first light the next day, it will take longer than you expect and you really don't want to miss the lift if you haven't got bivi kit, the walk back to the valley will mess up your trip.
GridNorth - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to MoWalker3: But he wants to do the two routes in the same day which is why I suggested the other way round. It is possible, I've done it but I was climbing solo. Climbing roped would require a very early start and a lot of moving together.

To th OP: You will also have to allow for the queues, which could slow you down or even make it impossible.
LakesWinter on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to noob rockmonkey: Do the Index one day after the last lift has gone down in the quiet of the evening. Have a pleasant bivi and then be first on the Chapelle the next day. The Chapelle is a better route but the Index is nice too. The summit finger on the Chapelle is about french 6a free but you can easily avoid it and the rest of the route is about HS 4b
MoWalker3 - on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to GridNorth.
that makes a great day out if you are quick.
As its the OPs first trip even if they spend a day sat high on the rouge just looking out it wouldn't really be wasted time.
First time i did the chappelle we enjoyed the view too much over lunch and missed the lift by 5 mins. with my dodgy knee at the time, that long descent was hell.

to the OP. get day tickets for the lifts and use them.
torquil on 28 Dec 2012
they are both great routes - but both in a day on your first trip maybe too much, as others have said, Index late in the day then bivi then chapelle next morning works well, you'll miss the crowds too, get on routes before the lift starts and have them to yourself (if you can stay ahead of the guides racing clients up.)

If you want to do them in a day then do chapelle first and see how much time you have left, you pass the index on the way back. Otherwise Mani Puliti or Nez Rouge make good easy and quicker routes to tag on to the end of a day, they're right by the lift.

The old index station has been boarded up but you could still get in to bivi there in sept12. Otherwise there are plenty of good outdoor bivi spots.

BTW on Chapelle the very first moves can be tough if a bit greasy/wet - dont be put off by them that is prob the hardest obligatory bit.
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Lorr - on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to MoWalker3: cheers for all the advice, I'm gonna have a chat with my partner - I think I like the idea of a bivy after the index and then go for it the following day.
Cheers again

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